Ranking All of Union's Nike Collaborations, From Worst to Best

Image via Complex Original

The craze around the second act of the Nike Dunk had cooled by the time this Air Tech Challenge-inspired Union collab hit shelves in 2009. The mid-’80s sneaker, brought back to prominence by the Nike SB line in the early 2000s, was among the most coveted silhouettes in all of sneakers just a few years prior. But as accessibility spread and trends began to shift, so did interest in the model. Releasing alongside a New York City-exclusive “Hot Lava” colorway, this black, neon green, and blue edition dropped exclusively in Los Angeles and was limited to just 100 pairs. Like its East Coast counterpart, it featured the release city (Union had locations in both NYC and LA at the time) on the heel tab and tonal Union branding on the strap. The series may not have had the same hype as the shop’s earlier or later releases, but remains an important and rare piece of its collaborative history. — Zac Dubasik

What does the Dunk have to do with the Nike Air Tech Challenge 2? Both are classic Nike models, but that’s about it. This collaboration, which came in 2009 during a different era in Union’s Nike portfolio, drew a line between the two models that, frankly, doesn’t make a lot of sense. Fusions typically aren’t a good idea, and this is a good representation of why—if two disparate shoes didn’t come from the same space or time in terms of design, they should remain discrete. The shoe doesn’t even stop at slapping the Air Tech Challenge 2 and the Dunk together; there’s also a random Nike Vandal-style strap capping it off. Thankfully, Union redeemed itself with its 2022 Dunk releases, doing much better justice to a shoe that’s important to the store’s history. Speaking of that history, an important detail here is the “NYC” stamp on the back, which links this design more to the original New York Union door rather than the Los Angeles one, which is now the store’s only brick and mortar outside of a recently opened Tokyo outpost. — Brendan Dunne

Sometimes a collaboration with a sneaker brand is an opportunity and sometimes it’s an assignment. When Jordan Brand approaches you with the chance to rework one of its iconic retro silhouettes, one of the sneakers that Michael Jordan actually wore and made famous during his singular NBA career, it’s an opportunity. When Jordan Brand approaches you to help juice a modern design that doesn’t mean much to its consumer base, it’s an assignment, the sort of task one executes in the give-and-take that comes with extended collaborative partnerships. And Union did just fine on this assignment, making the Jordan Delta Mid (a combo of the Zoom 92 and the Delta Mid) reasonably interesting with a colorway that mirrors its black Air Jordan 4, but that’s not enough to really make this a memorable sneaker. If you like them, we commend you for being able to look beyond the standard Jordan hype models and find something good elsewhere, but if you don’t, we can’t blame you in the least. — Brendan Dunne

​​One reason sneaker brands do collaborations is to inject hype into newer models that may otherwise be a little off of the radar. That was clearly the case when Union was tasked with helping bring new eyes to the Jordan Zoom 92, a hybrid sneaker built with elements from three prominent shoes worn by Michael Jordan and the Dream Team in the ‘92 Barcelona Olympics—the Air Jordan 7, the Nike Air Max 180, and the Nike Air Force 5. Union’s version of the Zoom 92 was delivered in a colorway that corresponded with its shop-exclusive “Guava Ice” Air Jordan 4, a blend of neutral tones highlighted by bright hits of red and blue with a pre-aged sole. While the Zoom 92 may always function as the consolation prize to the Jordan 4, it’s one of Union’s most accessible collaborations and a solid shoe to have in your collection nonetheless. — Brandon Richard

Union’s latest Nike collection is a batch of four Cortez released in sets of two. The first run from June 2022 included this “Off-Noir” make up which covers the retro sneaker in a faded black suede with a woven underlay panel in blue and green. Extra hits of green come on the laces and tongue area, and there’s a slight multicolor effect on the Crater Foam midsole, but this is otherwise the most subtle of the Union x Cortez offerings. A matching black Swoosh also separates it from the rest, as the others each have contrasting emblems. Sometimes simplicity works in a sneaker’s favor, but in this case, the more vibrant options stand out more. The resale market seems to agree, with this particular pair currently selling for under retail on the popular marketplaces. — Riley Jones

Union’s coastal allegiances are a little muddled, the store having started as a distinctly New York institution that was outlived by its Los Angeles counterpart. It’s a West Coast shop at this point, though, so it only makes sense that the store get an opportunity to take on the Cortez, an icon of California footwear. With a Cortez collaboration comes a significant responsibility—the shoe has been culturally durable in part because of its simplicity, and the best versions of it have already walked Los Angeles streets for decades now. Union’s is a bold rendition, colorful rendition that ends up garish and a little lacking in a real anchor in storytelling. Most Cortez people probably weren’t really going after this Cortez. — Brendan Dunne

It only makes sense that Union, who’s main outpost is in Los Angeles, would eventually put its spin on a West Coast classic like the Cortez. While the Cortez may not have the same reputation in other parts of the country, its status in California culture has been solidified. With its four-pack of Cortez, Union did its best to honor the communities that champion the silhouette so much with colorful styles that feature striped canvas paneling inspired by traditional Mexican blankets. As it usually does, Union’s Cortez hits the mark with its storytelling. However, that doesn’t always translate perfectly into an amazing looking sneaker. Sometimes changing the upper of a classic silhouette with new panels and materials pays off. These just fall a bit flat, especially in comparison to some of the shop’s other impressive projects. — Mike DeStefano

There’s quite bit of pressure on a Los Angeles retailer when working on the Nike Cortez. The sneaker, which was first released in 1972, is a cultural mainstay in L.A. and the West Coast’s equivalent to the Air Force 1. When it came out that Union would be reworking the sneaker, there was a mixed reaction. More recent fans of the brand only have interest in them working on hype sneakers a la the Air Jordan 1, Air Jordan 4, and Nike Dunk. The Cortez, however, is a much more particular shoe. The outcome was great, at least in my opinion. The “Sesame” pair is one of my favorite sneakers of the year. The tan suede is superb and the blanket details tie the shoe into its cultural relevance. A simple, yet not boring shoe that you can actually wear. — Matt Welty

Union’s 2021 Air Jordan 4 project wasn’t quite as popular as its predecessor. But that doesn’t mean it isn’t still a well-executed collaboration. Like the original duo, these pairs incorporate some of Union’s unique details like durable mesh paneling and a folded-over, customizable tongue to nod to Chris Gibbs’ preference of folding the tongue down on his original Air Jordan 4s. The big differentiator here is that Gibbs and the Union team took an outdoorsy approach to the color palette this time around. This particular “Desert Moss” colorway was the more widely available of the two. It featured a mossy suede upper with purple and teal accents acting as a nod to the colorful sportswear that was popular in the ‘90s. The accompanying campaign for these was pretty cool too, and even featured a cameo from one of hip-hop’s sneaker aficionados, Offset, but these just felt a little less special than the first go-around. It does deserve props for originality though. You won’t see colors like this on an Air Jordan 4 too often. — Mike DeStefano

Union’s Air Jordan collaborations are known for rearranging the uppers, swapping out materials, and using unique colorways that give new perspectives on sneakers we’ve grown accustomed to seeing a certain way. The store’s take on the Air Jordan 2 continues this theme, although it’s not quite as drastic as some of the treatments we’ve seen on the Air Jordan 1 and Air Jordan 4. On Michael Jordan’s second signature shoe, Union owner Chris Gibbs and company aimed to apply a futuristic aesthetic—apparent through the dotted cut-out suede and nylon fabrication—that had developed a patina over time rather than appearing fresh out of the box. Of the two colorways, this blue-accented Grey Fog variation was the more accessible with a wider launch, but it tends to resell for roughly the same amount as its Union-exclusive counterpart. — Riley Jones

Union’s first project with Jordan Brand in 2023 also happens to be its most simplistic work with the brand to date. The boutique created a first-of-its-kind Air Jordan 1 KO Low. Like its high-top predecessors, the pair differentiates itself from the OG Air Jordan 1s by utilizing canvas across its upper. Union decided to keep things as clean as possible with an all-white upper, sail midsole, and grey accents. While it arrives fresh out of the box fairly plain looking, this one can be customized to the wearer’s liking with some colorful accoutrements like interchangeable velcro Swooshes and extra sets of laces. Opting to keep your pair Swooshless will reveal a black “UN/LA” print within the velcro, a nice little easter egg we don’t see often. If Union’s intention was to create a pair that can be worn with any outfit, on any day, in any season, they have succeeded. The beauty of these is all of their minute details. But ultimately, there are some more creative Union projects from the past that are better. These fall right in the middle of the pack.—Mike DeStefano

The Air Jordan 2 has had a weird history. Michael Jordan didn’t even like them. And thus, they haven’t been able to carve out as big of a legacy as many of his other signature sneakers. But in 2022, Jordan Brand has tried to reinvigorate the model with the help of some of its biggest collaborators. One of the best executions has been this pair from Union. Similar to its Air Jordan 1s and 4s before it, Union added some modifications to the upper to make the pair feel fresh and new despite being decades old like perforated suede side panels, dotted nylon, and a co-branded tag on the lateral ankle collar. These futuristic elements mixed with details like exposed yellow foam on the tongue and cream accents make this pair feel both new and old at the same time. This “Rattan” colorway was a bit more limited than its counterpart. Production numbers aside, we think this one looks just a bit better. — Mike DeStefano

For its second pairing of Air Jordan 4 releases, Union took its version of the classic 1989 sneaker to the great outdoors. The 2021 collection was released in celebration of the store’s 30th anniversary and included two hiking-inspired spins on Michael Jordan’s fourth signature model including this Union-exclusive “Taupe Haze” variation. Like the “Off-Noir” and “Guava Ice” Air Jordan 4s released by Union a year prior, these pairs featured revamped uppers with a mix of mesh and thick suede along with unique details including a stitched-down tongue and uncut wing straps. This particular colorway mixes a foggy grey with pastel shades of blue and green resulting in an Easter-esque look. Like many of Union’s releases, it’s a pretty close toss-up between this colorway and the accompanying “Desert Moss” pair, but the Union-exclusive version earns some extra points for being both easier to wear and harder to find. — Riley Jones

Joining the Argon colorway as the second release of 2022’s “Passport Pack” Dunk Lows, this Court Purple pair nods to a 1999 Japan exclusive nicknamed the “Reverse City Attack.” Like its inspiration, the Dunk Low uses a purple leather base with white leather overlays, but brings things forward by covering the upper in tearaway ripstop and adding gold contrast stitching (seen on the tongue logo of the original) for good measure. It’s worth mentioning that Nike will also be using a tearaway theme on an upcoming “Flip the Old School” Dunk Low in similar colors. And while fans in Union’s hometown of Los Angeles may prefer the Lakers colors on this pair, it ended up falling shy of the other two colorways from this collection. It looks like the resale market will end up coinciding with this ranking once the release fully shakes out, but we’ll have to revisit later down the line.  — Riley Jones

Like some of the other sneakers on this list, Union’s 2022 Dunk Low collaboration wasn’t an instant hit for everyone when it first surfaced. Part of that certainly has to do with the overall fatigue of the Dunk Low at this point. Some weren’t too fond of its semi-translucent ripstop overlays. But for others, myself included, the inaugural release from Union’s three-sneaker “Passport Pack” seemed to get better with each new image that hit the internet. The blue and green upper inspired by the European-exclusive “Pistachio” Dunk High from the 2000s looks great when you peel away some of the ripstop layers, but it also looks unique when left untouched. The Frontman logo badge tacked on the lateral heel is a nice touch, too. The “Passport Pack” theme is meant to revisit a time in sneakers much different than today, full of regional exclusives that you would have to hunt across the globe to finally acquire. It’s a great bit of storytelling that is able to separate this collab from the sea of Dunks on the market at the moment. But it isn’t quite enough to unseat some of Union’s past projects above it, hence its placement in the middle of the pack. — Mike DeStefano

Union’s collection of Nike Dunk Lows releasing in 2022 extends the hype around the retro basketball sneaker, providing some much needed depth and storytelling to complement the ubiquitous inline pairs. The shoes reference the footwear journeys of Gibbs, who parallel sourced Nike Dunk exclusives from around the world to stock Union in the shop’s early days. This one is particularly special in the trio as it references the “Argon” Dunk Low, a reference point in Gibbs’ personal relationship with the Dunk and a heralded colorway from the shoe’s first real resurgence at the turn of the century. Each shoe in the group benefits from slick packaging that helps spin the narrative, with passport-inspired detailing and tissue paper on the inside that make them feel far above your standard pair of black and white Dunk Lows. — Brendan Dunne

I love this shoe. Some people will tell you that the black Union x Air Jordan 4 is the better from this collection, including my co-workers, but I want to tell you that they are all wrong. The Guava version of Union’s Air Jordan 4 is special. Not often do you see a sneaker, specifically an Air Jordan, in a light pink suede. And even then, the execution needs to be flawless to make it all work. Union did just that. Its design on the Air Jordan 4 was daring; folding the tongue over, replacing the toebox with mesh, and adding see-through panels on the upper. But it all worked, really well, too. I remember seeing these for the first time, and I, a person who doesn’t wear Jordans, said to myself, “I need these.” I tried to get them on release day, but was pumped faked like everyone on Union’s website, when they released a few minutes after the scheduled time. The Guava pair didn’t see a wider release like the black one, making them a little harder to track down. Luckily an opportunity with eBay allowed me to secure a pair. I’ve only worn them once, mainly because they look too precious sitting in the box with all their packaging, but I hope to break them out this summer and go full Muscle Beach with them, wearing them with a pair of swim shorts and an oversized T-shirt, just as you would have done in 1989. — Matt Welty

The story of the “Off Noir” Union x Air Jordan 4 begins with a less-than-ideal first chapter. Between the unflattering angles and unexpected alterations, this collaboration wasn’t love at first sight. But as more images emerged, the story was told, and perhaps most importantly, familiarity set in, perceptions began to change. While some people never came around to the modified design, Chris Gibbs and Union undoubtedly get points for attempting to do something unique with the beloved silhouette. The old-school-inspired traditional toe box, sewn-down tongue, and full plastic lace tabs combined for one of the most original takes ever seen on the model. Yet the sneaker’s most lasting legacy may be its launch. In an era dominated by bots and a feeling of impossibility when it comes to buying coveted sneakers, the Union team created a perception of fairness around the release—something almost unheard of in the modern sneaker world. — Zac Dubasik

Union needed something special for its reintroduction to the sneaker community following a 13-year stretch since its “Clerks Pack” Nike Air Force 180. And special is an understatement for what we ended up getting: a two-pack of Air Jordan 1s based around the concept of original colorways that had been chopped up and re-stitched with mismatched colors. The resulting design included this remix of the “Storm Blue” makeup from 1985 crossed with the ankle collar of the unmistakable “Bred” colorway. More than just a rework of the blocking, Union’s version of the Jordan 1s also included details like a faux-aged Swoosh (which Nike says took nine attempts to get right), two-tone laces, and painted edges on the premium leather upper. Add in the fact you could only get this version from Union, and it makes sense why it’s grown to be one of the store’s most coveted collaborations. While there are people who prefer this Union-exclusive version over the “Black Toe” (including Union owner Chris Gibbs himself), the “Storm Blue” trails behind ever so slightly in terms of wearability—especially if you decide to throw in the alternate yellow laces. Nevertheless, the 2018 release has become something of a modern classic and helped continue to fuel energy around the Air Jordan 1 model, which was already one of the brand’s most popular silhouettes. — Riley Jones

The Union x Nike Air Force 180 points toward a simpler time, when the concept of collaborations was fresh and hype surrounding these releases hadn’t yet reached today’s fever pitch. Still, the Union 180 was a shoe everyone heard about and many attempted to acquire. It was part of 2005’s “Clerks Pack,” a collection of collaborations between Nike and several notable sneaker shops. A design that Union owner Chris Gibbs described as a “rinse, wash, and repeat of Streetwear 101” on the Complex Sneakers Podcast, the shoe was remixed with pastels, vibrant neon hits, multicolor camouflage, and safari print. On paper, the shoe could have been a complete miss, especially on a silhouette with such rich history, but the execution actually enhanced everything that was good about the 180, while helping introduce it to a new generation. It was also one of the earliest sneakers to have its status elevated by the vaunted Kanye West co-sign after he was spotted wearing a pair while rehearsing for his performance at the 2005 MTV Video Music Awards. — Brandon Richard

The best of the best. The Union x Air Jordan 1, which released in 2018, was one of the shoes that helped build the current mystique around Michael Jordan’s original Nike model. It was a mishmash of original colorways: one part Black Toe, one part White/Neutral Grey. It’s not hard to see why this shoe was popular. For what it’s worth, I’m personally partial to the blue pair. But Air Jordans in white/black/red colorways tend to be more popular than ones that aren’t, so here we are. Chris Gibbs, owner of Union, also said he prefers the blue pair. The Union Jordan 1 has become a modern-day grail. Worn by sneakerheads, athletes, celebrities, and musicians alike, the shoe’s lofty resale price ($3,000) makes it the crown jewel of a lot of collections and a continuous talking point in the sneaker world. When the shoe first debuted, it was at the Rose Bowl Flea Market. Many thought the shoe was a prank, even tricking people such as Sean Wotherspoon and Complex alum Emily Oberg. But little did everyone know what this shoe would become. One of the biggest sneakers, certainly, and also something that would reignite one of the most important sneaker stores ever. — Matt Welty