In 2011, Jerry Lorenzo made his first trip to Nike’s sprawling 286-acre campus in Beaverton, Oregon. At the time, he was managing former Los Angeles Dodgers all-star Matt Kemp and hoped that, through Kemp, he’d be able to design a signature sneaker. “I wanted to build Matt into the next Ken Griffey Jr. and to design a performance shoe for baseball, kind of like how the Griffey was on field and off,” he says. “I thought it would have to happen through somebody like Matt or another athlete. It always seemed like a dream.”

Lorenzo didn’t end up creating a sneaker with Kemp. But this past September, the designer confirmed a collaboration with the Swoosh through his own brand, Fear of God; at the end of the film for Fear of God’s Sixth collection, he stepped out of a pick-up truck in a previously unseen sail Nike Air Fear of God 1 high-top basketball sneaker. Seven years later, Lorenzo finally had his own Nike shoe. And not just any sneaker: an entirely new silhouette—an opportunity very few Nike collaborators have had. “I knew that I couldn’t come here and color up a retro and be successful,” Lorenzo says. “My greatest proposition of fashion is in shape and proportion. I was very clear with Nike—like, ‘Hey, this is what I can offer.’”