Key Takeaways
- 10 era-defining pieces from women-led streetwear labels are highlighted, arguing that creative women have shaped the culture even when brands "by women, for women" were underrepresented.
- From Triple 5 Soul hoodies and Walker Wear jerseys to X-Girl ringer tees and Baby Phat puffers, the list traces how women’s designs became staples for both downtown scenes and sparked mainstream fashion trends.
- Married to the Mob x KAWS bikinis, Vashtie’s Air Jordan 2s, MadeMe and HLZBLZ logo pieces, Melody Ehsani rings, and Claw & Co. sunglasses are among the specific items that provide a cross-decade snapshot of women’s streetwear.
Women have always played a pivotal role in the streetwear ecosystem. Despite that, there seems to be a lack of brands by women, for women in the space. That doesn’t mean that they don’t exist.
Creative women have been putting on since the early years of what we now collectively refer to as streetwear, dating back to the ‘90s. In some cases, the brands and products they created were even fully adopted by their male counterparts and helped define generations of style.
There are plenty of pioneering women’s streetwear brands that deserve praise and a collection of modern brands like Mowalola leading the charge today, we wanted to focus on some of the specific items that have withstood time to help tell the story of women’s streetwear. From Triple 5 Soul’s custom hoodies in the ‘90s to Married to the Mob’s bikinis made with KAWS, these are 10 items that define women’s streetwear.
Shop the Women's Collection on Complex.
Triple 5 Soul Piecework Hoodie
While Triple 5 Soul hasn’t been able to sustain the same level of success as some of its contemporaries, there is no doubt that Camella Ehlke’s brand was a true streetwear pioneer in the ‘90s. One of the defining labels of downtown New York City, Triple 5 Soul was quickly adopted by its creative scene and rappers from the Native Tongues movement like Pos of De La Soul.
Some of its signature pieces were the one-of-one upcycled hoodies that Ehlke would create at 555 Soul’s Ludlow Street outpost. Customers could select the fabric patterns they wanted for the sleeves, body, hood, and even the logo patches they wanted sewn on.
Walker Wear Jersey
April Walker’s Walker Wear was another women-owned label that defined ‘90s streetwear. Walker Wear wasn’t just a streetwear brand for women. It was fully embraced by Walker’s male counterparts. At its peak, it was worn by the era’s biggest rappers Notorious B.I.G., boxing legends like Mike Tyson, and young hoopers like Shaquille O’Neal. You can’t discuss ‘90s hip-hop and street fashion without mentioning Walker Wear. She helped lay a blueprint that is still being followed to this day, by women and men.
X-Girl Ringer Tee
Founded by Kim Gordon and Daisy Von Furth in 1994, X-Girl was the sister brand to another streetwear OG, X-Large. The brand catered to some of the most important subcultures that poured into what we know know as streetwear like punk rock, the underground rave scene, and skateboarding. True to its anti-establishment nature, one of its signature moments came in 1994 when it staged a fashion show on the street outside of the venue where Marc Jacobs was holding his own presentation that season. While X-Girl produced a wide array of pieces, none are more iconic than its ringer logo tees.
Baby Phat Puffer Coat
If you grew up in the 2000s, you likely saw this coat all over the place, from superstars like Lil Kim to the halls of your school. Truth be told, there are few singular garments that represent women’s streetwear and hip-hop fashion from the aughts more than this one. Known for its fur-lined hood, cropped body, and cat logo stitched on the back, the Baby Phat puffer coat was a status symbol that was actually attainable. Kimora Lee Simmons was a pivotal player in elevating women’s urban wear into a more aspirational space in the 2000s. This coat lives on as a lasting representation of her impact.
Married to the Mob x KAWS Bikini
In 2026, KAWS is still releasing coveted collaborations with entities like the New York Yankees. Married to the Mob was doing it 20 years ago. KAWS lent his signature Companion hands and “XX” motif to a hot pink bikini for Leah McSweeney’s label. Only 100 were released at a very select number of boutiques: Alife in NYC, Colette in Paris, and OriginalFake in Tokyo. The 2006 was such a success that it even sparked a sequel one year later. Working with one of the most highly-regarded artists in streetwear was a stamp that cemented MTTM as not just one of the most important women’s streetwear brands ever, but one of the most important streetwear brands of the era, period.
Vashtie x Air Jordan 2
There have been a ton of amazing Air Jordan collabs from women in the years that followed, but this is the one that started it all. In 2010, Vashtie Kola became the first woman to receive her own Air Jordan collab. The “Violette” Air Jordan 2 took the silhouette into a more luxurious space with its sandy suede panels. Whether you believe that better pairs have come after it or not, they may not have ever seen the light of day if Vashtie didn’t blaze the path 16 years ago.
MadeMe Logo Tee
Launched in 2007 by Erin Magee while she was still holding a full-time position as head of development, special projects and production at Supreme, MadeMe brought streetwear’s edge to the women’s market. The brand “for girls, by girls” has collaborated on plenty of memorable projects with labels like its inspiration X-Girl and Converse. It’s ‘90s riot-grrrl-inspired approach has been on full display many times, whether it be a bloodied Princess Nokia in a lookbook or Utz potato chip logo flip to read “Slutz” on tank tops. Yet, few things endure in the world of streetwear quite like a classic logo tee. MadeMe has continued to find fun ways to refresh it year after year.
HLZBLZ “Bad Bitches Only” Jersey
Lanie Alabanza-Barcena is an OG in the streetwear space who has worn many hats and assisted many important brands behind the scenes. But her own imprint, HLZBLZ, was her true magnum opus. The brand acted as the antithesis to the typical “shrink and pink” method that plagued women’s fashion at the time. Instead, it focused on gender-fluid designs with edgy graphics akin to its male counterparts. There is no better example of this than the black and white jersey top that featured a flip of a presidential seal featuring a marijuana leaf, spiked baseball bat, and the phrase “Bad Bitches Only.” Co-signs from Beyoncé and Rihanna only aided HLZBLZ’s reputation.
Melody Ehsani Rings
Throughout her impactful career, Melody Ehsani has designed entire apparel collections for Foot Locker and released sneaker collabs with brands like Reebok and Jordan Brand. Before she grew the brand into the all-encompassing label it became, gold rings helped to put her on the map. From classic three-finger options that displayed powerful messages like “Resist” and “Stay Woke” to signet zodiac rings, they were the defining accessory that became a launch point for Ehsani. They perfectly nodded to classic ‘90s style, while simultaneously acting as a symbol of women’s empowerment.
Claw and Co. Sunglasses
Claw Money is a New York graffiti icon, first and foremost. She was also able to make an impact in the 2000s and 2010s through her clothing label, Claw and Co. Her retro-inspired sunglasses were her most popular offering. The chunky, vibrant shades were reminiscent of iconic retro styles from Cazal and Carrera. They even became a go-to accessory for stylish musicians like Rihanna, Kanye West, Cam’ron, and more at the time.
