In the winter of 2013, when Loewe presented its collection for the upcoming fall season, the clothing was mostly black and brown. There were leather jackets that looked expensive and suits that probably cost a full paycheck, but the collection wasn’t made for standing out. It was minimal and subtle. Loewe’s current collection, for Spring 2016, incorporates those classic touchstones, too, but it also includes rocket ships, Manga prints, race cars on T-shirts, and at least one sweatshirt featuring Goofy—all while still looking luxe. One man is responsible for this sea change: Jonathan Anderson.

On the surface, Jonathan Anderson, the baby-faced, 30-year-old London-based designer known for his avant-garde approach to clothing, may not seem like a fit for the 170-year-old Spanish luxury house favored by the country’s royal family. But scratch beneath that exterior, and you’ll find a nuanced approach to luxury that has attracted a cult-like following for both Loewe and Anderson since he took over the creative director role in 2013.

Anderson didn’t always aspire to be a designer. Born in Northern Ireland, he initially pursued a career in acting, but ultimately his interest in costume design led him to the London College of Fashion, to study menswear design. He graduated in 2005 and took a job in visual merchandising at Prada. In 2008, he launched J.W. Anderson with a menswear collection, and two years later, added women’s. That same year he was named creative director of menswear label Sunspel and, in 2013, designed a one-off capsule collection for Versace’s Versus line.