Tremaine Emory has reportedly left his role as creative director at Supreme.
Sources have told Complex that Supreme's Fall/Winter 2023 collection will be the last under Emory's creative direction. The reason for Emory's abrupt departure is currently unknown. Emory, Denim Tears, and Supreme have not responded to Complex's request for comment at this time.
Emory was appointed as the streetwear brand's first creative director in February 2022. The Spring/Summer 2023 collection was the first under Emory's creative direction. The brand recently released the first pieces from its Fall/Winter 2023 line, Emory's second full collection, which was met with warm reception from fans of the brand.
Across his first two seasons, Emory injected his own vision into the brand. He created varsity jackets featuring art by close friend and Cactus Plant Flea Market founder Cynthia Lu, durags made in collaboration with Coogi that resemble the Australian brand's iconic sweaters, and that he dubbed a "love letter to the block," and a photo T-shirt featuring popular rapper NBA YoungBoy—a perfect way to keep the younger generation interested in the brand.
In a recent interview with Just Smile Magazine, Emory shared his thoughts on industry vs. community validation that feel especially relevant in light of his departure from Supreme.
"I would caution kids who care about the validation of these big conglomerates and media giants because these conglomerates are banks. LVMH is a bank. Kering Group is a bank. Paramount’s a bank. This is late-stage capitalism. These institutions will finance a designer, an artist, a band, a director, a writer or whatever to make something to get more money than what they put in. That’s what it’s about for them," said Emory. "If you seek their validation because so and so made you creative director, you’re losing. In fact, you’ve already lost. But if you seek validation, firstly, in yourself and secondly, in the community that you care about and who cares about you, you’ve got a chance to live a life without regrets.”
Emory's unique approach to design will still be realized through his own brand, Denim Tears, which has made a mark in the fashion industry in recent years with storytelling of the African diaspora through clothing. Earlier this year, a collection co-designed by Emory with Dior, aptly titled Dior Tears, released to the world. This month, Denim Tears celebrates its fourth year as a brand.
"I kind of like [see] Denim Tears to me as Supreme for Black people and anyone else who wants to celebrate or commemorate what we’ve been through,” Emory told Najee Redd of RSVP Gallery in a 2020 interview. “[It’s] using T-shirts as billboards for knowledge and expression.”
As for Supreme, it remains to be seen if it will hire a new creative director to fill Emory's role or go back to its old ways. The brand has had its fair share of struggles in recent years. Some people have been vocal about the long-running streetwear brand being dead, while financial issues have also made headlines. In June, VF Corp.’s annual report revealed that Supreme’s revenues declined in the fiscal year that ended in March 2023. VF Corp. acquired Supreme for $2.1 billion in 2020.
