The Best of New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2024

From Who Decides War's runway show to Mellany Sanchez's exhibition at Abrons Arts Center, these were the highlights of New York Fashion Week this season.

Complex Original

Another New York Fashion Week is in the books, and don’t let social media fool you. There was more going on in New York than influencers crowding the street eager to get into exclusive after-parties. While New York Fashion Week still lacks the star power of its counterparts in Paris and Milan, it makes up for it by treating us to great presentations from up-and-coming designers that will be helping define the future of the American fashion industry for years to come. 

But New York Fashion Week isn’t all about the runway shows. Plenty of important figures in New York City’s rich streetwear community also organize memorable pop-up shops and galleries to take advantage of while we were traversing from show to show. Now that the dust has settled, we wanted to highlight some of our favorite shows and activations that took place across New York Fashion Week. Check out our thoughts on each of them below. 

Advisry Spring/Summer 2024

Who Decides War Spring/Summer 2024

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Who Decides War’s Spring 2024 presentation marked a new direction for a label widely recognized for its boldly distressed denim. Titled “Alterations Consultants,” Who Decides War’s latest presentation was inspired by the tailor shop owned by Ev Bravado’s own father. Seamstresses working on sewing machines and piles of fabric were littered across the catwalk that models walked. Granted that Bravado and Tela D’amore’s label is still well recognized for its couture-esque take on denim, their eighth collection honed in on womenswear that was elegant yet still rebellious. Women’s looks included leather corsets paired with skintight cargos and avant garde motorcycle jackets that boasted sashiko stitching. Standout menswear offerings included a leather vest that echoed the bulletproof styles of 50 Cent and Helmut Lang; along with jackets boasting three-dimensional pockets shaped like the label’s distinct stained glass window motifs. Bondage strap looks for both men and women gave off a more luxurious take on New York denim staples like Tripp Jeans. Although A Boogie closed the show in a bedazzled suit textured like diamond-plated steel, the most notable celeb look presented that evening was worn by Ice Spice as a guest attending the show. Ice Spice has previously worn a number of bespoke looks for the brand, and this only shows that the label is extending its audience beyond the many young men who hoarded the doors of its show that evening. Yes, we couldn’t even get in to see the presentation ourselves. But frankly, we’re not surprised because the hype around Who Decides War is truly warranted.

Luar Spring/Summer 2024

Willy Chavarria Spring/Summer 2024

Denim Tears Flagship Opening

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The biggest event to occur within the streetwear space during New York Fashion Week was undeniably the opening of Denim Tears’ first-ever flagship last Saturday. Supposedly, fans of Tremaine Emory’s label were lining up overnight to be the first to shop from their new flagship at 176 Spring Street—an address last occupied by Stüssy and better known for being Union’s original outpost. The store opened with Denim Tears' newly released collaboration with Levi’s along with a limited stock of sweats covered in his iconic cotton wreath. Although police were on the scene and traffic on the street was blocked off, the crowd lining up to shop was calm since only 200 tickets to enter the store were distributed that morning. But for those who couldn’t get a ticket, it was still a spectacle to take in. Celebs like Ronnie 2K and Quavo stopped by. Clint419 of Corteiz surreptitiously watched the crowd with his entourage across the street. And Offset certainly made a grand appearance by throwing Benjamins out the whip while teasing collaborative merch he made with the brand. While some may think Emory’s power within streetwear has weakened since he left his role at Supreme, it was very apparent at Denim Tears’ opening that he still has plenty of supporters.

Sebastien Ami

Head of State’s ‘Home as Corpus’ Exhibition

‘Objects of Permanence’ Exhibition by Mellany Sanchez at Abrons Arts Center


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