ComplexCon 2023 Brands To Watch: Garmette, Sebastien Ami, ADW, And Stolen Arts

In the midst of a two-day festival that celebrates the intersection of music, food, art, and style, the “Brands to Watch” installation, which is in its fourth year, spotlights the emerging fashion labels you need to know now. The Complex Style team selected each brand, which will sell an assortment of their goods in a dedicated space at ComplexCon. 

Brands to Watch, which has featured labels like Brownstone, Advisry, Spencer Badu, and other designers on the cusp, aligns with Complex’s history as a launchpad for many of the industry’s leading creatives. Cactus Plant Flea Market’s founder was actually an intern at Complex years before launching one of streetwear's most successful labels. Now, the CPFM founder is creative-directing ComplexCon this weekend. Likewise, many Brands to Watch designers end up returning to ComplexCon with their own booths and accolades to boot. 

This year’s batch consists of four labels from both coasts. These include Elliette Saavedra’s Garmette, a sporty futuristic womenswear label that’s crafted by a mother-daughter duo in South Los Angeles that’s been co-signed by Jorja Smith and Coi Leray; Stolen Arts, a New York–based label worn by rappers like Sexyy Red and Gunna that’s blowing up on B.B. Simon–inspired belts that riff off nostalgic pop culture references; and Sebastien Ami, a Los Angeles–based menswear label reviving vintage Americana and utilitarian garments for the present day. Lastly, there’s Philadelphia's ADW, an accessories label that’s building a name with its avant-garde bags. 

Scroll through to learn more about Garmette’s futuristic design language; how anime inspired Sebastien Ami’s eponymous label; ADW’s outsized demand for its Gami Bags; and the incredible chance encounter that Stolen Arts had to get its first major co-sign from Dennis Rodman.

ComplexCon 2023 takes place Nov. 18–19 at the Long Beach Convention Center. It is curated by our guest creative director Cactus of Cactus Plant Flea Market, and will include panel discussions, food booths, exclusive drops, and a headlining performance from Kid Cudi. Buy tickets now. 

Not all mistakes are bad. Sometimes they even nudge you in the right direction. In the case of Sebastien Amisial, a mistake is how he discovered that he wanted to design clothes. 

An artist and anime aficionado, Amisial was drawing a character in high school one day when he hit a rut. He didn’t like the look of its head or limbs. When he erased them to restart, he was left with only the outfit remaining on the sheet of paper. Something clicked.

“I wanted to expand on that. That's when I started learning about pattern making. I started learning about garment printing and silk screening, what actually makes a piece a piece,” says Amisial. 

Today, anime is still a big inspiration for many of the items produced by his eponymous label Sebastien Ami, which was founded in 2017. The ballooning silhouette of the brand’s pleated sweatpants, which have been co-signed by well-dressed stars like Bad Bunny and Justin Bieber, are a nod to the bottoms worn by Dragon Ball Z characters like Goku and Trunks that he grew up watching. 

“I've found a way to make it not look like cosplay,” says Amisial.

Other androgynous designs for Sebastien Ami reference vintage Americana and utilitarian garments, like a World War II U.S. Army field jacket updated with an oversized fit or cropped Type II denim jackets. Amisial mulls over the details of these old items, like the buttons on the waistband of an Austrian military pant, and applies them to his own pieces. Sometimes, he references his own upbringing, like a knit sweater full of moth holes from his dad’s closet that became a piece in the Spring/Summer 2024 collection. Heavy outerwear is a subtle nod to his East Coast upbringing. Other designs represent his Haitian heritage. 

“I’m a little bit of a historian. I'm not as knowledgeable as an actual clothing historian by any means, but it really does pique my interest,” says Amisial. “It makes me really happy when I can use those quality notes and put them into our pieces. It’s really about modernizing it, making it unisex, and making it a little bit more fashionable through fabrication.”

Sebastien Ami began loosely operating in 2017, but Amisial considers 2020 the real launching point for the brand. The pandemic gave Amisial and his wife, Marianne, who co-directs the brand, the time to fully dedicate themselves to it in ways they couldn’t before. Each of them has multiple decades of experience in the fashion industry and were growing the brand between their full-time jobs (they met working at defunct L.A. boutique Guerilla Atelier). The newfound focus they have been able to give to Sebastien Ami seems to be paying off. 

“We never compromise. I've been in the industry and gone through the motions with a lot of different brands where they're like, ‘Yeah, that's fine.’ I've always had this bigger vision,” says Marianne. “No shortcuts are taken in what we do. If something is not right and we both feel it in our gut, we can't do it.”

Today, the duo works out of their Los Angeles studio, where every product is made (the upcoming “Camping” collection marked the first time the brand produced in Japan). When it comes to the future, Marianne notes how a flagship store would give them more freedom to operate on their own terms. For Amisial, financial stability could be a key factor in to help the brand take its next big leap.

“We don't plan on just being a one and done situation as a brand,” says Amisial. “We're going to be doing what we're doing for pretty much the rest of our lives because we love it that much. We're excited to see what happens as we continue to grow.”

Despite the growing pains, the brand has kept busy in 2023. In September, it presented for the first time at New York Fashion Week as part of New York Men’s Day. In late October, it released a collaboration with True Religion that updated some of the signature offerings of the iconic 2000s brand through the Sebastien Ami lens, like adding a J-cut shape and tapered, wide legs to its Joey jeans. ComplexCon will be Sebastien Ami’s latest milestone.

The brand’s Brands to Watch booth will be constructed like a famous artist’s workshop. Attendees can look forward to a variety of special collaborations like sleeveless hoodies made with Justin Boone, exclusive black colorways of the brand’s dad hats, and two exclusive colorways of bags made out of paracords in collaboration with Chantel Le. 

“We’re artisans making product for other artisans,” says Amisial. “We're trying to elevate. We’re creating our own code that we're excited to really solidify.”

Elliette Saavedra’s label Garmette is fittingly rooted in the phrase “cosa de mañana,” which translates to “a thing of tomorrow.” That’s because her Los Angeles-based brand revolves around a distinct and futuristic approach to womenswear that she envisioned at 10. For ComplexCon 2023, visitors can explore Saavedra’s offering, which will include ​​dresses, corsets, motorcycle gloves, and more of the label’s most popular styles.

“My goal is to create designs that will be loved now but also make sense 50 years from now,” says Saavedra. “I would say that ‘sporty futuristic’ is the aesthetic of Garmette and the world has only seen like 2 percent of it so far. So it's just the beginning.”

Saavedra has built a strong following since debuting in 2019. Garmette’s maxi dresses and form-fitting designs blur the line between activewear and elegant womenswear. Stylist Veneda Carter commissioned the label to craft Jorja Smith several looks for various performances last year. Coi Leray also co-signed the brand by wearing a skintight Garmette “Moto” top in her music video for “Bops” this spring. And Los Angeles’ own Becky G recently donned a sublimated “Rims” tank top in her live music video for “2NDO CHANCE.” Saavedra admits she never envisioned celebs wearing her clothing back when she was conceiving her own personal looks as a kid.

“I was literally designing clothes to make myself look cool. I never had any intention to put it on anyone else when I first started,” says Saavedra. “I only realized that it could be a business  when people would constantly tell me how much they needed what I was wearing after I graduated high school. That's when I started thinking of making something out of it.”

Family is core to Garmette’s success. Each piece is handcrafted and sewn by Saavedra’s own mother and takes four to eight weeks to complete. Saavedra, who shares her mother’s first name, never studied fashion but has been designing clothing alongside her mom for as long as she could remember. Her mother, who also has no formal design training, originally picked up sewing as a hobby to create baby clothing for Saavedra and her siblings. She became such a talented seamstress that anytime Saavedra thought of a design while growing up, she would head to Downtown L.A.’s Fashion District with her mom to pick out fabrics and produce it. 

“Naturally, we just became partners in something bigger and we honestly make the best team,” says Saavedra. “I design it and she brings everything to life, which is perfect because she's probably the only one who can understand my ideas.”

Garmette’s pieces are designed around Saavedra’s body—she also stars and creative directs many of the brand’s campaigns. Take the label’s popular V-Maxi skirt as an example. The scrunched skirt, which was one of the label’s first offerings, was originally crafted for Saavedra’s 23rd birthday. “I designed it because I was going on a trip for my birthday and I wanted a piece that looked flattering in every single way,” says Saavedra. Other popular offerings from Garmette include its “Playwear” line, which is Garmette’s stretchy take on elevated basics. As of now, Garmette’s pieces are fabricated out of brushed polyester and spandex for the sake of scaling the label and addressing its audience. 

“I started off designing just for women in general and I've stuck with those materials because it hugs you while looking really flattering on your body,” says Saavedra. “Eventually, I want to explore scuba and canvas fabrics because I love that stuff.” 

Saveedra’s biggest goal is to put together a runway show. She got a brief taste of what that could look like in October by designing a Garmette look for an Amazon Music runway show that spotlighted emerging Latino designers. She's interested in further exploring her Mexican Peruvian heritage and travels to Mexico on the runway.

“I just want to shine a light on South America and Mexico,” says Saveedra. “I got really inspired by that [Amazon] show because it’s one thing to make something for a runway. But to be surrounded by others that come from the same upbringing, it just hits so much more.”

Adriana Williams had an interest in fashion from a young age. Growing up in Philadelphia’s Kensington neighborhood, she remembers making sure the colors of her clothes matched her beads and jewelry as early as third and fourth grade. She dreamed of working in a retail store. When she cleaned her room, she would pretend to scan all of her clothes. That led her to dabble in various creative fields from photography to art throughout her upbringing. But none stuck with her like clothes. 

By the time she started college at Howard University in 2015, she was constantly sketching and purchased her first sewing machine to teach herself how to sew. With the exception of fashion illustration and draping courses she took at Howard, Williams is self-taught. Her learnings culminated in the launch of ADW that same year.

“It just felt like a natural next step,” says Williams. “I feel like I've always been a creative. Making clothing and accessories just stuck with me.”

Williams still calls Kensington home. It’s also the location of her studio, which she acquired in 2020, where she makes most of ADW’s products by hand. Her main inspiration is just creating the unique items that she wants in her closet but can’t find. 

ADW's most popular item to date has been its black Gami bag, a spacious over-the-shoulder bag made out of a quilted nylon material similar to a puffer jacket. It’s the first bag that Williams ever made, but it’s been so popular that she recently had to stop selling it. She’s exhausted all of the material that she needs to make it and can’t find any more of it. She even resorted to having it shipped in from other states until the stock depleted. 

“Unless they want to restock the fabric, I can’t restock the bag,” says Williams. “I honestly had no idea that the bag would turn into this. I've been shocked all year.”

The success of the bag has prompted Williams to focus ADW’s output on bags in other shapes and sizes for the time being. But she's still open to creating other items. In August 2023, Philadelphia boutique Yowie hosted ADW for a special pop-up. Yowie founder Shannon Maldonado encouraged Williams to create homewares, which resulted in quilted bean bag cubes and flower pot holders. ADW also sells welcome mats, trucker caps, and graphic T-shirts featuring a collage of Williams' face made by Philadelphia artist Blair Nesmith. 

Other peers in in Philly have also taken note of ADW already. Gami bags are currently stocked by Urban Outfitters. She also has a stockist in Atlanta, a sign that ADW is already making a name for itself beyond the East Coast. In the future, Williams hopes to grow her network of stockists and continue to host additional events in her home city and other major cities like Chicago and New York.

Williams has also decided to pay it forward. Along with her brand, she’s hosted Sew With W classes since 2021 to teach other aspiring tailors and designers. 

“I've always had a lot of people ask me to teach them how to sew. With me having a studio, the materials, and the machines, I felt like it was the perfect opportunity to teach those in the city,” says Williams. “Plus there's not a lot of sewing classes in Philly, especially from someone like me. I feel like it is a safe space for people in a sense. I wanted to just shine a light on sewing and all the possibilities that you can get from it.”

At ComplexCon 2023, ADW will be welcoming guests into a makeshift room full of products like a new iteration of the Gami bag made out of a new textile (she wants to keep it a surprise). The brand will also be selling an array of home goods like quilted pot holders, T-shirts, caps, and even jewelry.

“I want the space to really feel inviting and authentic,” says Williams. “These pieces are all handmade. I want everyone to take that with them.”

Darrian Scott’s label, Stolen Arts, truly stands behind its name. 

Since launching in 2021, Stolen Arts has specialized in designing streetwear that riffs off nostalgic pop culture references. The brand’s rhinestone-embellished belts—inspired by B.B. Simon—have been worn by nearly every major rapper today. Ice Spice donned a Stolen Arts belt with a buckle featuring Sailor Moon. Gunna and Lil Tecca commissioned the label to craft belts that commemorated the release of their latest albums—A Gift & a Curse and Tec, respectively. The belt Sexyy Red wore in the viral photo with Drake? It was a Scarface-inspired Stolen Arts piece that was also worn  by Cardi B in some throwback New York streetwear fit pics. Now, the New York-based label is selling its beloved belts as one of ComplexCon’s ‘Brands to Watch.’ 

“I saw how these B.B. Simon belts have been popping for so long yet no one else tried to make another belt brand like it,” says Scott, the 27-year-old founder. “I noticed nobody ever messed with the buckles like that. Stolen Arts is really a brand built off nostalgic pieces that remind me of my childhood with my own unique spin.”

Scott conceived Stolen Arts on a whim. Although the Houston-born designer tried to study  fashion at Oklahoma State, he dropped out after a year because he felt he wasn’t gaining much from going to school. Instead, he began reselling PlayStations and other video game consoles during the pandemic. When flipping slowed down, he decided that making his own clothing line could become another viable hustle. All he needed to do was to learn how to actually make clothes. YouTube taught him everything he needed to know about design. 

Stolen Arts aimed high with its first release in 2021 by dropping a hooded puffer jacket featuring the covers of iconic PlayStation 2 games. But when they went viral for dropping rhinestone belts with iced-out Pokémon characters a year later, Scott knew he was on to something. 

“I’ve honestly never had a steady job but was working in a furniture store for two weeks because reselling really slowed down,” says Scott.” I saw the traction that Gengar belt got and just quit my job the same day.”

Celebs quickly began gravitating toward Stolen Arts’ belts, which are made from leather, snakeskin, pony hair and stainless steel. Scott’s first co-sign came from a chance encounter with Dennis Rodman at a restaurant in Houston—he serendipitously created a belt inspired by Rodman's time on the Chicago Bulls and gifted it to the basketball star on the spot. Suki Baby, the Houston adult dancer featured on Drake’s Her Loss album cover, wore a Takashi Murakami-inspired piece in a viral fit pic shortly after. The brand continued growing through word of mouth. So much so that Scott took a leap of faith and moved to New York in February to connect with more celeb stylists and their clients. 

“Don't get me wrong, it's crazy to see all these celebs wear it, but right now, I'm kind of numb to it because I've seen it on so many different people,” says Scott. 

As of now, the brand receives 700–900 pre-orders a month for the belts, which take several weeks to produce and ship out. Scott says he aspires to become as big as Supreme and is looking to expand his label’s offerings outside of belts in 2024. Surprisingly, he says the brand’s managed to fly under the radar when it comes to any legal issues that could potentially arise when flipping such trademarks. In fact, one of their unsanctioned pieces inspired by Tyler, the Creator’s Cherry Bomb, is leading to a potential collaboration with the artist himself.  

“Mike G from Odd Future followed me to tell me Tyler actually liked the belt and that I should make an Odd Future one,” says Scott. “So I'm linking up with him in Los Angeles right before ComplexCon to give that to him. We might do an Odd Future collab, let’s see.”