In the summer of 2012, Kanye’s stylist, Renelou Padora, reached out to Rob Garcia, designer of luxury streetwear brand En Noir. Padora, who had seen some of En Noir’s pieces on Garcia’s Instagram, was interested in pulling a pair of the brand’s black leather sweatpants for the rapper. En Noir hadn’t officially launched yet, but Garcia agreed to bring a sample he was still developing and later, at Padora’s request, show the rest of the collection. At the time, the line only consisted of leather pieces and T-shirts printed with Renaissance art. “I was still sampling. I didn’t really want to show them an incomplete thing,” Garcia tells me at his New York showroom, “but it was a matter of opportunity.” Kanye eventually took the collection to Miami for a music video.

That video wound up being for DJ Khaled’s song, “I Wish You Would.” Kanye arrived on set in a plain black T-shirt, Nike Air Yeezy 2 Solar Red sneakers, and black En Noir leather sweatpants. He wore the same sweatpants and a black En Noir leather tank top in the video.

By the time En Noir launched in August 2012, Kanye had made En Noir leather sweatpants his uniform. Later that month, he appeared alongside 2 Chainz in the music video for the hit “Birthday Song” in a black tank top with three gold chains tucked underneath, Nike Air Yeezy 2 Solar Red sneakers, a Just Don snapback, black embroidered leather gloves by London-based brand Kokon To Zai (aka KTZ), and the same leather sweats.