Image via Complex Original
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In June of 1981 a University of Oregon runner and architecture graduate joined Team Nike. This in and of itself was not special. After all, the young architect was hired as an architect. How many people outside of Nike would ever see his work? As it turns out, an awful lot.
That architect's name was Tinker Hatfield, and once he switched over to sneaker design in 1985, nothing would be the same. Not only did he change the aesthetic of sneaker design, he changed the very process. And the results speak for themselves — the Air Max 1, the Trainer 1 (and, in fact, cross-training period), Huarache. And that's not even getting into the work he did with Jordan, starting with the Air Jordan III, where he turned signature shoe design into a collaborative process with the athlete. Here we take a look at Tinker’s greatest creations, from the first game-changers to recent goodies he cooked up in the Innovation Kitchen and some kicks that we will be rocking well into our nursing home days.
Air Max 1
Nike Air Max 1
Released: 1987
Complex Says: "Why don’t we just cut a big hole in the midsole?” And the rest is history. Prior to Tinker Hatfield, the Air unit in sneakers wasn’t exposed. Inspired by the Centre Pompidou in Paris, Tinker could see the inside of the building – escalators, heating, and air conditioning, even the people, and as he called it “the guts.” He brought that idea to the sneaker people at Nike. After much debate and convincing and a little remodeling of the Air Bag for full cushion, the exposed Air unit was born.
Air Trainer 1
Nike Air Trainer 1
Released: 1987
Complex Says: Back in the '80s, people usually brought (along with their fanny pack) two pairs of kicks to the gym, a lighter pair for running and a more stable pair for weightlifting. Picking up on this trend, Hatfield designed the Air Trainer 1 for multipurpose uses, which caught on to the likes of John McEnroe as well as some NBA players.
Jordan III
Air Jordan III
Released: 1988
Complex Says: Arguably one of the greatest Jordan releases of all time, the Air Jordan III may have saved Nike. Michael Jordan wasn't terribly happy, and he was looking for a way out. Enter Tinker. The III was Hatfield's first project with Jordan and from the second he stepped on the scene he took this release to another level. As a request from Airness himself for animal print, Hatfield incorporated “elephant skin” — what we know today as cement. Let’s not forget this was the first time we saw Visible Air on a Jordan. The line was developed at a rapid pace and Hatfield said “no one slept for weeks.” The sneaker community appreciates all the hard work.
Jordan IV
Air Jordan IV
Released: 1989
Complex says: With the first attempts to add lighter materials, the Jordan IV gets covered in mesh on the tongue and side panels and plastic "wings" for lateral support. ‘Flight’ is added to the tongue to inspire young ballers to take flight on the basketball court. Another first for the Jordan IV was that it was an international release which was a hit on the global markets. This drop is perhaps best remembered for its star turn in Spike Lee's “Do the Right Thing.”
Air Max 90
Nike Air Max III (Nike Air Max 90)
Released: 1990
Complex says: Back in the 90s it was known as the Air Max III. After 2000 when the III was retroed, it became more commonly known as the Air Max 90. Building on the success from the first two Air Maxes, the Visible Air unit was included along with breathable mesh which most prefer over today’s sometimes all-leather upper. For the first time a multi-lace system was incorporated to allow for extra comfort and a more secure fit for running. The design gets a sleek aggressive feel to it, making you look fast.
Jordan V
Air Jordan V
Released: 1990
Complex says: The Jordan V took only a few elements from the first four Jordans and that’s how Tinker Hatfield wanted it. He was inspired by the World War II Mustang fighter plane, which is most evident when it comes to the "teeth" on the front of the midsole. Hatfield thought of Jordan’s game to be one of the same with how an airplane strikes: "Floating around the edges of the game and coming out of nowhere to attack.” MJ did just that, dropping a career high 69 points versus the, wait for it — Cavaliers. Jordan was obviously a rising star and the reflective thick tongue was in direct response to his success, adding a reflective material for the camera flashes.
Jordan VI
Air Jordan VI
Released: 1991
Complex says: A little bit of this, a little bit of tha,t and with the stroke of a pen the Jordan VI is born. Aside from the heel tab that was inspired by Michael Jordan’s Porsche, this Jordan makeup was more of a Tinker Hatfield showcase including something from most of his designs; Translucent soles, Visible Air in the sole (Tinker’s baby), and it wouldn’t be a Jordan without new additions like the two-hole pull on the tongue which allowed for an easier entry of the foot which many shoes since then have borrowed.
HuarTrainer
Nike Huarache Trainer
Released: 1991
Complex says: So far Tinker Hatfield has introduced designs from fighter planes to buildings. The inspiration for the Nike Huarache Trainer takes on more of an unconventional inspiration — the water. While he was on a water-skiing trip he noticed the neoprene boots he was using gave him a more secure feel, thus introducing the trend of “less is more” to the sneaker world along with the Huarache concept, which also extended to running and basketball.
nike-mowabb
Air Mowabb
Released: 1991
Complex says: Inspired by frequent trips to visit a friend in Moab, Utah, Tinker brought a fresh feel to Nike's fledgling ACG outdoor line. The Huarache-inspired Mowabb was both versatile and comfortable, well-suited for virtually any activity in the great outdoors. The spatter-finished midsole would become a staple.
HuarBball
Nike Air Flight Huarache
Released: 1992
Complex says: The five freshmen from Michigan made this shoe famous on the court, but the brains behind the operation made it what it is today. Continuing with the “less is more” mentality and inspirations from a Mayan sandal, the sneaker was stripped and built up with only the necessities making it as light as possible — leaving competitors who once called the sneaker a “sandal” scrambling for new ideas.
JordanVII
Air Jordan VII
Released: 1992
Complex says: When most people see art or listen to music, they may only see or hear what’s on the surface. Tinker Hatfield tends to dig deeper and discover more than most would. When designing the Jordan VII, Tinker took ideas from Western African tribal art and Afropop, two very random but well-calculated places to find ideas for his next classic Jordan. He also took some ideas from his Huaraches and added them for the perfect combination.
AirRaid
Nike Air Raid
Released: 1992
Complex says: With an attempt to design a sneaker for the streetball culture, Tinker took to the blacktop of the Big Apple. After talking to some legendary streetballers, the consensus was clear — come up with something that would hold up on the asphalt. The Air Raid was created, bulky and with lockdown straps, and streetballers across the country embraced the release specifically for them.
JordanVIII
Air Jordan VIII
Released: 1993
Complex says: Between the endorsements, family, and — of course — winning NBA championships, Michael Jordan lived a pretty crazy life. To capture this lifestyle, instead of using pictures Nike used what else, a sneaker. The Jordan VIII and the colorful designs are said to bring Michael’s life to his feet, the added straps brought streetball to the hardwood.
Jordan IX
Air Jordan IX
Released: 1994
Complex says: By 1994, everybody wanted to be “Like Mike.” He was an icon worldwide and what better way to express his fame than his sneaker. Tinker used simple Japanese influence to his Jordan IX design. On the upper heel the Jumpman logo is incorporated in a rising sun, and on both sneakers words that represent Jordan are written in seven different languages. The famous Jordan statue outside of the Bulls arena has Jordan wearing the IX’s.
JordanX
Air Jordan X
Released: 1995
Complex says: One would think that designing a signature sneaker for a player that wasn’t in the league anymore might leave Tinker with a lack of inspiration. The Xs came out really nice though, with ghilly lacing, Jordan's accomplishments listed on the outsole, and numerous colorways to represent different cities in the NBA. They were worn by guys like Kendall Gill, Nick Anderson, Harold Miner and Hubert Davis, though, which just wasn't the same.
Jordanxi
Air Jordan XI
Released: 1995
Complex says: With the Jordan XIs Tinker was reaching for redemption. Not that the IXs or Xs weren’t great but Hatfield admitted that they lacked the technical performance innovation that usually blew the sneaker world away. Many Jordan-heads will argue that the IIIs are the sickest model but the XIs might be more iconic due to MJ's return to the game, the Space Jam cameo, and that clean patent leather design (inspired by, of all things, a lawnmower). Either way, had Twitter existed in November of 1995 you would have seen #TinkerBack.
AirOscillate
Nike Air Oscillate
Released: 1996
Complex says: When you think "Nike Tennis," you probably think "Andre Agassi." And that's only natural, since his neon-bright Tech Challenges made quite the splash. But it was quiet and unassuming Pete Sampras who went out there year in and year out and won Grand Slam events with the Tinker-designed Air Oscillate on his feet. Tennis die-hards still speak reverentially about these Zoom Air workhorses.
JordanXII
Air Jordan XII
Released: 1997
Complex says: When Jordan split off to become its own brand, Tinker of course led the way. The Air Jordan XIIs were went back to traditional leather uppers (inspired in part by Japan's Rising Sun flag), but kept innovations from the XI including the carbon spring plate. They were also the first Jordan to feature Zoom Air. The XIIs were also considered the most durable of the Jordan line and featured various dope colorways including the timeless “Flu Games.”
Talaria
Nike Zoom Talaria
Released: 1997
Complex says: A former runner himself, Tinker didn't leave off with the Air Max line. The Zoom Talaria was a bright standout with its tennis ball upper and translucent outsole that hit a chord both with runners and sneakerheads. Its DNA lives on today in the Talaria Boot.
JordanXIII
Air Jordan XIII
Released: 1998
Complex says: Tinker used Jordan’s on-court persona “Black Cat,” due to his speed and fast reflexes, as inspiration. The design of the shoe reflected the name perfectly with a fast look and cat eye hologram on the ankle. They say imitation is the sincerest form of flattery, but we doubt Hatfield appreciated all of the fakes that hit the streets in some horrendous colorways.
JordanXIV
Air Jordan XIV
Released: 1999
Complex says: For the Jordan XIVs Hatfield used inspiration from MJ’s Ferrari 550M to create a fast-looking, lower-cut model. The Ferrari-like badge, air "intakes" and the metal tips on the laces added to the high-tech feel. The shoes helped Mike win his sixth ring and will be remembered on his feet dragging across the court during his famous step back “final shot” against the Jazz in the NBA Finals.
JordanXV
Air Jordan XV
Released: 2000
Complex says: The XVs ended a run with Tinker at the head of a sneaker line dynasty. With the XVs he took design cues from the X-15 fighter jet developed by NASA in the 1950s. The sneaker had numerous features that paid homage to some of MJ's favorite Italian designers with the red stripe up the back of the shoe as well as the woven upper.
Lebron1
Nike Air Zoom Generation (LeBron 1)
Released: 2003
Complex says: After “The Chosen One” was drafted No. 1 by Cleveland in 2003, he signed a lucrative $90 million deal with Nike. Of course the Swoosh pulled out the greatest to consult on the design of The King’s first shoe, although Nike Basketball designers Aaron Cooper and Eric Avar did the heavy lifting. The Air Zoom Generation featured Zoom Air throughout allowing the kid to sail through his first season in comfort and the design was inspired in part by LeBron's infamous Hummer.
JordanXX
Air Jordan XX
Released: 2005
Complex says: The Jordan XXs tagline was “Welcome to the Future” as Jordan Brand pushed to celebrate Michael’s legacy and take his shoes to next level, pushing things with technology and letting Tinker do his thing on the design end. The XXs were inspired by cycling shoes and motorcycle tires and the laser-etched lace covers were a big hit. Hatfield used symbols representing different stages of the Jordan line and MJ’s life.
AJXXIII
Air Jordan XXIII
Released: 2008
Complex says: On the XXIIIs Tinker teamed up with Mark Smith and pushed to create a shoe that you could put on a table without any logos and you would know exactly what it was. The level of uniqueness helped them achieve the feat with an intricate pattern stitched through the majority of the side as well as the left and the right kicks not mirroring each other for the first time in the lines’ history. They were also the first Jordan to fall under the "Considered" line due to their more environmentally friendly construction.
ProdTinker
Nike SB P-Rod II Tinker Hatfield
Released: 2008
Complex says: Since his first days designing Tinker has helped create different “genres” of shoes, so asking him to get down with a skate shoe didn’t get one of the most influential designers shook. Using Paul Rodriguez’s second signature model, Hatfield used a baby blue sole, black woven upper (which actually may have worked better here than it did on the Jordan XV), and texturized Swoosh as the canvas for yet another brilliant display of his creativity.
Jordan2010
Air Jordan 2010
Released: 2010
Complex says: After the XX3s dropped, many people thought the Jordan line was over. Instead Tinker and Mark Smith once again pushed things creatively by adding a transparent thermoplastic urethane window. The window symbolized Michael’s ability to see through his opponents and anticipate their next move. The shoe marks Tinker’s last Jordan design to date but hopefully not his last.