Kenny Farr never knows when the most coveted piece of equipment at the University of Oregon will show up. All the equipment manager for the Ducks football team knows is that when Nike’s VP of Design, Tinker Hatfield, asks for a size run of players and staff that something big is about to happen. The next call he’ll get from Hatfield’s Beaverton office will alert him to the impending arrival of a truck stocked with boxes of Oregon-specific player-edition (often referred to as PE) sneakers. On that day, players and sneaker fans alike delight.

With so few pairs made of the highly publicized, not-for-retail-sale designs, resale prices match the scarcity. These shoes can fetch thousands of dollars on sites across the country, whether for that “Duckman” look from Oregon, the relatively new maize-and-blue options designed for Michigan, or an old standby: Carolina Blue. There’s been such a buzz around Oregon sneakers, that Nike has released several versions to the public, including an Air Foamposite One.

Hatfield launched the craze in 2011, working with former Oregon football player Jaison Williams to “Oregon-ize” the Air Jordan IX in all-black ahead of Oregon’s National Championship football game against Auburn. The next two years saw two more Oregon x Jordan designs and 2014 stepped it up even more with four different Oregon designs, giving basketball their own colorways along the way.