Image via Complex Original
1.
Streetwear used to exist within strict parameters. While the definition may never have been fixed, the aesthetic and attitude has always been fluid, allowing it to adapt and last since it was first born in the late-'80s. Menswear, on the other hand, has been around in its modern form for nearly 200 years. As opposed to steetwear, this is a category that has always been more about tradition and rules. Today's iteration of menswear is still about those rules, only dudes are now concerned more with adding their own personality into the manner of dress. These two entities used to exist at opposite ends of the spectrum of men's style, but each has broken down the constrictions that once defined the borders of menswear and streetwear.
By now, the line in the sand that once existed has all but been obliterated. Guys are mixing and matching the two once mutually exclusive worlds, and some of the dopest looks you see out there are executed by following this path. Numerous shops around the world are stocking brands that represent both worlds to give guys this option. However, there are brands out there whose entire M.O. is to strike a balance between the ends of the spectrum. More and more names are getting on board, but these guys are doing it the best. These are 10 Brands That Blur the Line Between Streetwear and Menswear.
2.Trés Bien
With a rep as one of menswear's most cosigned boutiques, Tres Bien has garnered acclaim from Internet menswear nerds (remember Sune, the model with the cool hair?) and legit fashion designers (carrying the likes of Dries Van Noten, Rick Owens, and Raf Simons). The Scandinavian shop pioneered mixing high-end clothes with more accessible streetwear brands like Stussy, and approached men's style with a "choose your own adventure" sensibility. In short: They made dressing up seem cool, but fun. After collaborating with Our Legacy on the WELCOME brand, Tres Bien debuted its own line for spring, a small capsule collection consisting of basics like zip and graphic hoodies, and tailored gear like zip shirts and an unconstructed top coat. Add in Sun Buddies, a forward thinking line of sunglasses, and the Tres Bien dudes are clearly on the fast track towards evolving from the coolest store on earth to a global brand to be reckoned with.
3.Public School
Since its inception in 2008, Public School committed itself to bringing a high-fashion inclination to its brand while retaining streetwear as its core. In the early years, this concept was almost too ahead of its time, and while there was a niche fanbase that applauded the blending of the two worlds, most people simply didn't get it. But designers Dao-Yi Chow and Maxwell Osborne have proven to be aesthetic prophets, as their original philosophy has pioneered that now crowded segment where menswear and streetwear intersect. Public School has been instrumental in fusing the runway and the streets with collections that have won both critical acclaim (their trophy cabinet must be stuffed at this point) and customers. High fashion may be enjoying a current infatuation with streetwear, but Public School has been doing it since Day One.
4.A.P.C.
Since its inception in 1987, A.P.C., like streetwear, has drawn inspiration from repurposed military gear. Jean Touitou's vision for casual clothes with a surplus vibe was more tailored and streamlined than his contemporaries, but A.P.C.'s claim to fame actually came from Adam Shantir, who introduced raw selvedge denim to the line. Democratic cuts like the New Standard, Petit Standard, and New Cure have since become the gateway for hypebeasts and style-conscious guys to a higher level of dressing. A.P.C.'s genre-blurring tendencies continued to collaborations with workwear brand Carharrt, iconic brand Supreme, minimal sneakers with Nike, and of course, an unprecendented celebrity collaboration with Kanye West.
5.Norse Projects
Established ten years ago in Copenhagen, Norse Projects has since become known for no-nonsense menswear with an understated, more-than-meets-the-eye appeal. Sure, they're known for rain jackets made in collaboration with Elka, too, but everything from their basic tees to button down shirts plays with patterns and textiles to make them interesting. A recent Vans collaboration mixed cool materials from Danish textile producer Kvadrat with classic skate shoe silhouettes, elevating the simple sneakers. They also have unstructured suiting and tough-ass chinos and denim under their belt, taking the preciousness out of dressing up without losing its street cred.
6.10.DEEP
10.DEEP is carrying the torch for what many would consider a "traditional" streetwear brand, sticking to staples like hoodies, tees, caps, and baseball jerseys, but the brand has really mastered the art of expanding its repertoire without compromising its perspective. Baseball jerseys and slim button-down shirts fit right it along side super-distressed denim and camouflage trench coats. Combine all that with a competitive price point and you've got the makings of a label that the average style-conscious guy and discerning streetwear head can agree on.
7.Mark McNairy
Mark McNairy's has attained the well-earned reputation of Americana's resident badass. The North Carolina native's got decades of industry experience under his askew baseball cap, favoring tried-and-true menswear staples like button-down shirts, bench-made shoes, and well-cut suits. The designer was "classically trained," taking a 2005 gig as the design director of storied American clothier J. Press, but his legacy includes lines like 68 & Brothers, McNairy Brothers, and a stint with American-influenced Japanese brand SHIPS, LTD. Likely the man who made camo more famous than the army can, McNairy's middle-finger attitude to menswear is reflected in bold patterns and cheeky graphic tees reconciled with well-fitting sportcoats, cuffed jogger trousers, and all-over print shirts. His talents have also been recognized by Pharrell, who brought him on board to take the Billionaire Boys Club brand up a notch, resulting in BEE LINE for Billionaire Boys Club. Then, to prove the patterns weren't just a novelty, McNairy dropped the BBC BLACK line that relied more on innovative silhouettes and high-quality fabrics than eye-catching colors and all-over prints.
8.Supreme
At 20 years old, Supreme has proven how to make a perenially cool brand. Growing old doesn't have to mean getting lame, and Supreme's managed to maintain its street cred and enduring appeal to new generations of skate rats and juvenile delinquents as well as the older guys who've left their wild days behind, but still have their edge intact. The brand came full circle by re-releasing its iconic Box Logo and Taxi Driver tees this year, but didn't skimp on bringing in new products that balance novelty appeal with classic overtures. Take for example, a seersucker suit made in collaboration with Brooks Brothers, or a denim Kung Fu jacket that channels Bruce Lee and Ralph Lauren at the same damn time.
9.Maiden Noir
Streetwear and surplus style are forever intertwined, but Maiden Noir has managed to master the union of both. It's definitely on the pricier end of the spectrum, often being much more expensive than plenty of the brands most people compare it with. That doesn't matter though, because the label's been doing them for years now, and that means not skimping on quality while putting out some of the most covetable pieces of outerwear, denim, and footwear. It's sort of the thinking man's streetwear line, rough-around-the-edges but as reliable as ever. It's a line where two-tone mac jackets and waxed denim coats can live together in harmony, while bucket hats and leopard print keep the aesthetics firmly grounded in a world where your clothes have to be every bit as badass as you are.
10.MR BATHING APE
Every ape's gotta evolve someday. Nigo started MR BATHING APE as a joint effort with Japanese retailer United Arrows, but it has since evolved into its own brand that operates within the BAPE umbrella. Mixing Savile Row craftsmanship with banana camo sensibilities, it's the type of menswear line that hasn't lost touch with its inner child. Despite the dressy nature of the pieces, broguing on wingtips is cut to resemble the iconic BAPEsta shoes, and you can bet your ass there's a ton of camo to be found. Often eschewing the ape mascot in favor of a more minimal mustache logo, MR BATHING APE shows that Nigo knows how to grow up without getting old.
11.Ami
Designer Alexandre Mattiussi takes the slim cuts and effortless vibe of Parisian menswear and infuses it with a cheeky vision that fully embraces the fashion establishment while clearly standing apart from it. His runway shows have taken place in faux snowstorms and would-be airport terminals, dipping into the fantasy that accompanies fashion shows while keeping the styling and clothes accessible to the average guy. It's that balance between pushing the envelope and keeping things familiar that has won him the admiration (and wallets) of well-dressed dudes all over the globe.