Complex’s docuseries Sold Out: The Underground Economy of Supreme Resellers explores the world of reselling Supreme, where cutthroat fans do whatever it takes to purchase gear from the streetwear brand, and then sell the goods themselves for big profits. Our four-part series embeds the individuals who perpetuate this global phenomenon to get an on-the-ground look at the illicit market of Supreme apparel.

Supreme doesn’t support resellers. James Jebbia, the brand’s founder, said as much in a rare interview with streetwear blog Rift Trooper back in 2002. “I don’t like it very much simply because we try our best to make our clothing affordable for young people,” he explained. “After all, Supreme is a skate brand and when I do see our things on eBay the prices are normally at least double what they should be. I much prefer if someone buys something from us that they plan on wearing it and not selling.”

It’s a sentiment expressed by Supreme employees across the board, including those who work at the brick and mortar shops. During the filming of this documentary, the resellers we interviewed revealed that they’ve been denied their purchases or entrance into Supreme stores. But it isn’t only Supreme who disapproves of the business and those who flip product for big profits. While some of the resellers we spoke to say they’re supported by friends and family, some admit to a lack of approval because, as they put it, the term “reseller” has a negative connotation to it.

The fourth, and final, episode of Sold Out: The Underground Economy of Supreme Resellers explains, as per top menswear editors and other experts, why Supreme should or shouldn’t view the resale market as benefiting the brand. It also tells the story of the adverse reactions resellers have faced—but also the friendships these individuals have made.