Designer Brett Golliff Reinvents the Air Jordan Line

Jumping over the Jumpman.

Complex Original

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Since April I have had the pleasure of creating modern versions of classic Nike basketball shoes in elite form, I have created new ways of executing the awesome Air Jordan XX8 upper, I have taken classic Nike shoes from various categories and reinterpreted them as SB’s and I also created what I think the next Yeezy should be. Today I give you what might be one of the most challenging projects I have ever taken on, modernizing 11 classic Air Jordans.

The Air Jordan line is by far the most influential and important product line to ever be created in the sports industry. It reshaped the way products are created, marketed and accepted culturally. On a personal note, the Air Jordan line has inspired me to have the career I have. Without it I would have never known what Industrial Design is. As I have grown in my career as a designer I have always kept the motto of the brand—“Quality basketball products inspired by the greatest player ever”—with me, as I believe that quote can be applied to everything, not just shoes. Every desk I have had since I was seven years old has a laser-cut Jumpman displayed on it that my father gave to me. I use that Jumpman as a reminder to keep pushing and never settle. To always strive for greatness.

See, to me, you get what you put into things. If you want something to be great, you can make it great but it won’t be easy. That’s why this project was so important to me. It was more than just designing another shoe. I tasked myself with the challenge of reinterpreting 11 of the most important Air Jordans ever in a modern way. I refused to create shoes that didn’t embody what their original embraced, quality.

So check out how the classic Air Jordan line inspired me to push what had been created even further.

Air Jordan XIV

Year Original Released: 1999

The Air Jordan XIV is the Ferrari of the basketball court. The original version was a combination of carbon fiber and plush leathers and suede that was the pinnacle of luxury performance footwear. To modernize this concept I focused on creating a chassis that reacts to the foots movement during play. The setup is created out of two layers of Foamposite, a structural layer and an a adaptive layer. The structural layer becomes the footbed of the shoe incorporating both Zoom Air and a carbon fiber shank plate. While the adaptive layer, is formed to flex and support the heel and midfoot zones during cutting and high torqueing movements. The upper is engineered from a ballistic nylon that is highly supportive yet flexible and lightweight. The upper also features registered airflow zones to allow for heat to escape the foot and keep it cool.

Air Jordan XIII

Year Original Released: 1998

The Air Jordan XIII was the first basketball shoe to feature hidden lacing. That feature has always been one of my favorite elements to add when designing a shoe. I don't know exactly why, maybe because the idea of being hidden is so mysterious? I am not 100 percent sure but more than likely though, it is because it allows for the aesthetic of the design to remain uninterrupted. I really wanted to expand on how hidden lacing can be interpreted in this modern version of the XIII, so I completely hid the structure under an embossed upper. The lacing is on the backside of the upper in the form of Dynamic Flywire. The wires follow the form of the anatomical tongue, creating an asymmetrical set up that wraps and supports the foot. The upper also features an asymmetrical collar that falls below the malleolus on the lateral side while it sits on top of it on the medial side. The embossed suede upper also provides friction on the interior of the shoe to help keep your foot locked in place. The podular midsole is integrated into a FlightPlate system that both adapts and articulates with the foot. Each midsole pod features an individual Zoom Air pillar to provide a highly responsive cushioning set up.

Air Jordan XII

Year Original Released: 1997

The Air Jordan line is one of pure craftsmanship and in this modernization of the XII, I really tried to highlight the purity of a beautifully crafted product. For some reason the word "crafted" is always paired with leather. Leather tends to be the top of the line of quality products because it is soft, supple and only gets better with age. With the XII I wanted to find a way to maintain these qualities but still have a performance shoe that can outplay anything on the court. So to lock in the foot is a 2-gram carbon fiber veil. What should be noted about veiling is that the fiber is not rigid like the shank plates we have come grown to know. In this instance the veil is so thin that it is adhered directly to the upper with a thin resin, think of it as a very lightweight version of Hyperfuse but in a much stronger fashion. I believe that this blending of technology with the staple of craftsmanship, leather, aligns perfectly with the core values of the Jordan Brand.

Air Jordan XI

Year Original Released: 1996

I truly believe that the future of manufacturing is going to be 3D Printing, not in just footwear, but in all industries. What I tried to achieve on this modernization of the XI is to completely create the upper without any manual labor done by people. I also wanted to expand on the most important innovation of the original XI, carbon fiber. The upper of the shoe is completely knitted from varying densities of FlyKnit. Some areas are tighter for support while other areas expand and flex. To reinforce the knit I have woven carbon fiber in a rand that organically follows the contour of the foot. It wraps the forefoot, midfoot and heel entirely but since it is woven and not a rigid plate the carbon fiber flexes while it supports. Essentially the upper is one large Chinese finger trap. To complement this knitted set-up, the entire sole unit is 3D Printed. The midsole features voids in specific areas to allow for flexibility while the areas that are not voided remain intact for structure. Traction is also printed directly to the midsole in the form of clear rubber. Overall this process would dramatically reduce weight while maintaining all performance capabilities.

Air Jordan X

Year Original Released: 1995

My concept for the Air Jordan X is something that I briefly mentioned in last week's article. Which is creating a completely lace-less shoe by expanding the elastic bands that are found on the tongue and eyerow down and over the upper and locking in with the midsole. What I have envisioned are bands that expand from the contoured FlightPlate and holistically wrap the upper but float above the vamp. So as your foot stretches and expands the bands "catch" and hold your foot into place. This set up would allow you to naturally move an upper that is completely supportive but unnoticeable as it becomes one with you.

Air Jordan IX

Year Original Released: 1994

If you do some deep searching on the Air Jordan IX you may find a sketch that Tinker Hatfield created featuring a removable collar to provide ankle support (see Kicks Issue 1). I have always wanted to expand on that idea and to me the perfect current resolution would be to create a shroud that rolls down, like the XX8; to allow for a custom fit. To add support to the shroud I directly injected Foamposite microns that provide strength to the material but allow for the shoe to flex naturally. These microns act as an update to the forefoot fingers that the original IX featured on the midsole. I felt it was very important to maintain the lockdown of the forefoot but in a lighter and more precise way.

Air Jordan VII

Year Original Released: 1992

For the Air Jordan VII, I really wanted to capitalize on the Huarache construction of the original. By creating a FlyKnit upper with integrated Flywire, I feel you could provide a fit that was both adaptive and lightweight, capturing the essence of the Huarache inspiration. To help hold your foot secure I expanded on the FlightPlate system that is running dominantly through the current Air Jordan line. The plate system grows out from the midfoot to secure the lateral forefoot and in the heel as an exposed counter. From there an internal Zoom Air unit is directly injected to the plate to create a highly responsive cushioning set up.

Air Jordan VI

Year Original Released: 1991

The original Air Jordan VI featured a fully gusseted tongue and vamp that stretched but still locked your foot in place during play. I took that element and expanded on the idea by creating a fully wrapping and highly stretchable upper that is connected directly to the internal midsole, similar to the Kobe VII. I believe that if the proper materials are used, then this could allow for the shoe to be lace-less. So to give the shoe more support an adaptive synthetic wraps and molds to your foot while an external nubuck shroud secures the heel and ankle.

Air Jordan V

Year Original Released: 1990

I wanted to take the most dynamic element of the Air Jordan V, the 3M reflective tongue, and revision it as a fit system. The original tongue always reminded me of an ankle brace or currently as an element of Pro Combat gear. So I designed the tongue to be molded to allow it to articulate with your foot while it supports you. I also expanded on the lace lock that was debuted on the original V by ridding this shoe of a conventional lacing system. The modern V features a speed lacing system that is integrated into the adaptive tongue. The upper sits on a full length Zoom Air unit with ultra traction clear rubber.

Air Jordan IV

Year Original Released: 1989

I have always felt that the trend of low top basketball shoes could be traced back to the Air Jordan IV. The collar height of the shoe was just barely a mid and the collar shape was so dramatic in its cut that it really felt like a low. So as I was updating it I tried to maintain the overall shape of the collar but make it a true low. I reinforced it with an exposed carbon fiber heel counter and fully synthetic upper with Dynamic Flywire. Under the foot is an updated version of Podulon. The sole unit features podular zones of Zoom Air that provide a highly adaptive and responsive experience.

Air Jordan III

Year Original Released: 1988

My update for the Air Jordan III is probably the closest to its original counterpart than any other in this series. The reason I kept it so close to the original is because it has become so iconic. To me this is the most "lifestyle" of the Air Jordan line. It is the quintessential "classic" Air Jordan. I wanted to maintain that feel but bring it to the new era of "lifestyle" and make it more sportswear. Instead of having a full grain leather shoe, the upper is reengineered with FlyKnit. This makes the shoe lighter, gives it a customized fit and complements the original breakthrough technology of the Air Jordan III, the visible Air unit, perfectly.