A Brief History of the M-65 Jacket

Time period: 1943-early 1960s.

When you're thinking about the silhouette of the M-65, you have a lot to thank to those that came before. While the M-43, the World War II-era version of today's M-65, is the conceptual starting point, the M-51 is the closest thing to a metaphorical “older brother” the M-65 has. The M-43, a more traditional field jacket, is more suited for…well, suiting, with it's lapels and cotton sateen outer. While those who wore it found it comfortable, it was ultimately deemed impractical and inferior to wool outerwear or more waterproof jackets.

Enter the M-51. Like the M-43 before it, it earned its name based on the year it was released, 1951. Made of 9 oz, water resistant, windproof cotton sateen. While zippers adorn the current M-65, the M-51 had button closures. Instead of the upright collar, the jacket had a shirt-style collar, more like a trench coat. A hood could also be attached or detached via buttons on the collar.

The important thing is that while it isn't too far removed from the M-65, it was huge leap from the M-43. Before these types of military issue jackets, field coats were more of an everyday piece of outerwear—designed on turn of the century hunting and/or utility jackets. As the jacket shifted from the M-43 to the M-51, you see a distinct shift to military practicality in clothing design. This formula would be improved and ultimately perfected in the timeless M-65.

Time period: 1965-Late 1970s

As the U.S. found itself entrenched in the Vietnam War, it realized it needed an entirely new jacket for an entirely new field of combat. With Vietnam's hot days and cold nights, soldiers needed a jacket that could allow air in when opened, but insulate enough to keep soldiers warm on cold nights and during rainy monsoons. While the M-65 has all the hallmarks of previous field jackets (windproof cotton construction, four chest pockets, olive green color), there are some major new changes. The hood now can be rolled into the collar; secured into place or hidden away by a zip pocket. The warming liner is buttoned in, so it can be removed in the day and replaced at night. While not necessarily on most M-65's today, a brass zipper closed the whole jacket up, and pockets were secured by snap closures. Velcro was also added to the cuffs, in the event someone wanted to roll up their sleeves and secure them.

Time period: 1966-1990s (military production)

We know Alpha Industries for its MA-1 bomber jackets, something so popular, you can buy it at malls all across the country. But its true bread and butter? That's the M-65. Not only does the retailer declare this claim proudly on its website, it's noted across the board as one of the first major military suppliers of the jacket. With a production history that begins with a contract with the U.S. government in 1965, and continued for 25 years, you can bet that A.I. is well versed at building out the four-pocket classic. While many guys wore the jacket home after their time in Vietnam, Alpha Industries also began producing the jacket for a commercial market in 1970s, helping to disseminate the silhouette even more.

Time period: 1970s-Present

When G.I.'s came home from Vietnam, they wore what they brought back with them from the war. The M-65 is no exception. When soldiers came back stateside, they had their standard issue jacket that kept them covered in the jungle—they just wore it at home. Like much of military-issue products we still use today, their practical nature made sense for combat, and it translated to equally practical clothing for their lives back home.

In the case of Scorsese's Taxi Driver, Travis Bickle, himself a Vietnam veteran, is seen wearing his patch-addled M-65—it's as much a part of his character as his signature mohawk. For someone like Lindsay Weir in the cult T.V. show “Freaks and Geeks,” her use of the M-65 isn't just as her father's hand-me-down, but also is a subtle attempt to show her desire to standout, or fit in with James Franco and the titular “Freaks” (as opposed to her #basic best friend Millie).

If you're pinpointing Hollywood's involvement with jacket, know that that lineage began right after the Vietnam War, and it's still growing today. Whether you're into military repro, or just trying to figure out How to Make it in America (R.I.P.), there's always room for an M-65.

Time period: 1990s-Present

Considering the M-65's lineage and decades-long popularity, it's not surprising that designers have add their own respective flips on the M-65. Some have just utilized wild colors, like Ten C's cornflower blue field coat, or Moncler's safety orange to add twists to the classic. Streetwear brands like BAPE, Maharishi, and Supreme reinterpret the jacket in SK8THING-designed ape camo or an allover leopard print.

Others, have opted for a more true reproduction. Alpha Industries is your best bet for a reasonably close recreation of the on-field model, with slight tweaks that make it friendly to even those on tight budgets. For a balance of military-grade practicality and solid price? Look no further than an actual Army/Navy surplus shop. These are unlikely to have a modern cut, and will be roomy and designed to be worn with an actual military uniform.

However, if you're willing to really spend, you can always head in the direction of reproduction brands like The Real McCoy's or Buzz Rickson's. Both are Japanese brands that have established themselves as some of the best military gear producers outside of the States. While you're also looking at dropping at least two or three times the price of one you'd score at a store in your local mall, you can rest assured that these would be combat ready (even if the most aggressive thing you encounter are Internet commenters).