15 British Menswear Designers You Should Know

Written by Safra Ducreay (@SafraD)

London Fashion Week is best known as catnip for trend-obsessed women. But this year, its official "Men’s Day" stepped up as the hot ticket for any guy wanting to up his fashion game. Apart from the pendulum of fashion authorities all over the style blogs and front rows, it’s quickly becoming an epicentre for designers wanting to make their mark in the industry — especially ones with an eye for menswear. Whether the clothes are tailored, simple or straight-up bogus, London’s menswear offerings have something for everyone. And the bar just got higher. Held on the last day on the LFW calendar, Britain GQ’s Dylan Jones announced a segue into an official three-day event come June of this year. Looks like the Brits are killin’ it with another invasion yet again.

While Milan, Paris and even New York have mastered men’s clothing, some of London’s presentations will take getting used to. Regardless, you have to give it to them: when it comes to experimenting with fashion – the Brits have it down. Besides, pushing limits opens doors for constructive criticism. That and the fact that London will soon be pegged (if it hasn’t already) the fashion cash cow. Here, we highlight 15 British Menswear Designers You Should Know.

The Designer says: “As I am from England, my inspiration comes from everything around me. But I’d like to think of someone who wears my clothes as a person who’s into having fun.” - Martine Rose

Complex says: Martine’s skill for making practical separates tinged with a strong British aesthetic is worth noting. It’s not just the cultural references she uses, but it’s the simple fact that she can make slim-cut printed pants look badass. For autumn/winter 2012, Martine cuts a mean bomber jacket.

The Designer says: “I wanted to pay homage to perhaps the most famous Savile Row tailor of the late sixties - Tommy Nutter; I think the one thing that defines our customer is that he understands and looks for a classic British product.” - Barry Tulip, Design Director

Complex says: Having worked at Z Zenga in Milan and London’s Dunhill, Barry Tulip’s design hand is a perfect fit for this Savile Row tailor, delivering reasonable investment pieces of the best quality. The collection consists of top tier jackets, pants and shirts made from cashmere and fine wools suited to any occasion and that are made to last. We’re particularly feeling the range of dope outerwear pieces that’ll have even Tommy Ton doing a double take.

The Designers say: “People that like our clothes vary from middle aged men to young kids from wherever. We want to make sure that every piece that’s worn is cut nicely and can be composed with whatever’s in your core wardrobe.” - Agi Mdumulla and Sam Cotton

Complex says: Agi Mdumulla lent his expertise to Karl Lagerfeld and Alexander McQueen — Sam Cotton spent some time at the latter — with the two forming alliance that will ultimately have an impact on how menswear is worn for a younger generation, full stop. While they’re great with prints, it’s the lightweight, fluid tailoring of their clothes that caught our attention. Their personal style isn't too shabby either, as evidenced in a recent video on NOWNESS.

The Designer says: “My inspiration came from the Wu-Tang Clan. I’ve been looking into what they were inspired by — the Shaolin monks, being one of them; I really want guys to feel confident when wearing the clothes.” - Astrid Andersen

Complex says: Astrid Andersen is one of the very few in people fashion who can actually make hip-hop look fashionable. Literally, referencing Wu-Tang for her Autumn/Winter 2012 drop, Astrid brought back an aggressiveness that’s been hiding under a rock in fashion the last couple of seasons. Out of the collection of bright pink down coats and mesh shirts, it’s the fur-trimmed, marble-print parka that’s the winner.

The Designer says: “I wanted to explore different kinds of fabrications. Fake fur played a big part. It adds a nice, playful element. I don’t like to impose my ideal on people. It’s honourable for me if someone takes pieces and wears them in their own way.” - Shaun Samson

Complex says: An American living in London, Shaun’s collection came off as a nostalgic ode to Cali’s strong Latin and skateboard culture. Never mind how it’s perceived on the runway, when taken apart, it’s an arrangement of wearable, loose-fitting button-ups, overalls and T-shirts with a bit of faux fur cut-outs in between.

The Designer says: “We use very different fabrics from other people. We used sports fabrics but give them a high-end finish. When it comes to the clothes, I don’t buy into trends, the clothes are the customer’s to interpret.” - Christopher Shannon

Complex says: Going eight collections strong with a growing stock list in some of the world’s hottest retailers – one of them Opening Ceremony in LA and New York – Christopher is making a smooth transition from young British menswear designer to well sought-after outfitter. While every piece had a sartorial edge, the sweater cardigan covered in Aztec prints is the perfect blend of prep and swag.

The Designer says: “The prints in the collection on shirts and Knits were inspired by Mapplethorpes early photographic work and the fabrics we've used throughout are lustrous, dark and mainly black, evoking feathers and plumage.” - Gordon Richardson, Topman Design & Product Development Director

Complex says: There’s no doubt that Topman is the brand if your aim is to dapper up within an attainable price point. We’re big on Topman staples, but its Autumn/Winter 2012 collection took a surprising turn with a dramatic theme with leather pants, a lot of sheen and endless textures. The standout in the collection was the sleek biker with faux-shearling coats that’ll fit over your blazer without the bulky effect.

The Designer says: “I was living in Surrey Quays (South East London) and was inspired by the Millwall football hooligan scene and how that was affected by the rave culture in the late 80s, early 90s. Every collection I make more clothes I would want to wear.” - William Richard Green

Complex says: A newer designer on the lot, William’s signature is clean and simple with attention to finer details. He jokingly describes his ideal customer as “a really rich chav who likes to dress like a clown,” but we prefer to think of him as the sporty dude who wants to look stylish without all the fuss.

The Designer says: “Style is everything, it’s one’s self-expression. As soon as a Kit Neale product gets into someone’s hands it’s theirs to interpret.” - Kit Neale

Complex says: Kit hails from South East London, more or less the equivalent to Harlem, which can explain the stunt-factor in his flashy prints. Guys would most likely wear pieces from Kit’s collection as separates, but they’re all so effective together we have to salute the dude who can pull off a full look with a IDGAF attitude. The vegetable print denim jacket is a piece that would have the boys of A$AP Worldwide schemin’.

The Designers say: “This collection was inspired by the Cadbury Milk Tray Man. He was very James Bond-esque, a very suave adventure man. We wanted to do an accessible classic. We used a lot of mohairs, silks, cashmeres; a lot of heightened luxury and comfort. “ - Wouter Baartmans and Amber Siegel

Complex says: Wouter (Baartmans) and Amber (Siegel)’s collection is for the refined dresser. After working at Viktor & Rolf in Paris, the two launched their eponymous line in 2010 and are known for throwing pops of bright colours into a reserved delivery of tailored pieces. Their outerwear coats are highlights, but we love the rich royal blue blazer over a pair of lean tapered grey trousers.

The Designer says: “Autumn/Winter is key for me because I can emphasize things I’ve become very good at which are leathers, sheepskin (which was shaved), knitwear and print. It caters to all sorts of men; you can buy the leathers, sheepskin, knitwear, or you can buy the T-shirt once you break it down.” - James Long

Complex says: Fashion’s bourgeois love James Long. But as menswear fashion evolves, James Long’s aesthetic has come to represent craftsmanship and luxury for any guy who appreciates a bit of high style when dressing up. His knits would probably have Drake in the check out queue, and his biker jackets equipped with quilted leather sleeves and gold embellishments have serious rock star appeal.

The Designer says: “When I was designing the collection I had a young Lucian Freud in mind, an iconic figure and a persona that I quite like.” - Oliver Spencer

Complex says: The self-taught designer’s clothing is transcultural. Since launching in 2006, Oliver’s line has become a hallmark for the debonair to the skater, the young chap to the distinguished dresser. One of the most diversified brands on the market, the outerwear pieces are failsafes for looking sharp. But the Letterman jackets and, in particular, the charcoal wool jackets are standouts for the new year.

The Designer says: “The inspiration for me was surface design. It started in the inner city of London and communicating the evolution of those surfaces. Tailoring for me is about natural fabrics and luxury, so we printed on soft cottons. Ultimately, I want my customer to have the mind of an explorer.” - Matthew Miller

Complex says: Another rookie to the industry, Matthew’s Autumn/Winter 2012 collection saw him use London’s surroundings (graffiti, rocks, billboard, tree trunks), blown up into large-scale prints on neatly cut three-piece suits, even backpacks. Whether you’re cerebral dresser or not, one can definitely appreciate his love for atmosphere and how it’s interpreted through clothing.

The Designer says: “For us it’s about quality and value of the garments; beings remade in England, fabrics made here. These are the kind of things we really want to push.” - Christopher Raeburn

Complex says: There’s a stigma attached to ‘sustainable’ clothes. But Christopher’s talent for stylish functionality has got him a lot of venerable praises and awards within the industry. His pieces are practical; good for a rainy day (excuse the pun) and due fabrics used, exclusive. But what’s interesting is the use of bold colour along with the construction of the pieces that makes ethical dressing look fly.

The Designer says: “The Tautz man has a classic English sensibility mixed with a kind of schoolboy humour; he likes to dress elegantly, but enjoys clothes with wit.” - Patrick Grant, Designer

Complex says: Kanye West said it best: "before he speak, his suit bespoke." E. Tautz is a label for a guy who wants the precision of a Savile Row tailor with a bit of fun and timeless relevance. These are the type of suits that get you the job and the girl. In addition to their on-point tailoring, this season brings some really cool knits and outerwear featuring a gigantic buffalo plaid, which is pretty much the loudest piece you'll find in an otherwise totally wearable collection. We dig the use of the red-and-black lumberjack pattern though — and we're ok without the hat to match.