Image via Complex Original
When someone "innovates" they're doing much more than just setting a trend, they're completely changing the game. It isn't enough to champion certain silhouettes or endorse a unique way of dressing. This list is dedicated to the labels, inventors, and pioneers who have really pushed men's style into the future with their contributions. There's no sprezzatura, no artfully-rolled jeans, just old-fashioned gusto and a spirit of invention. From iconic jackets to manufacturing processes that have revolutionized the way we dress, these are The 30 Greatest Men's Style Innovations.
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Leather Tanning
Who Invented It: Mehrgarh Inhabitants
Year Introduced: 7000 BC
The original tanneries were essentially known for smelling worse than Canal St. on New York's hottest day. Usually located on the outskirts of a village, animal skins were brought there to be soaked in salt solution or urine—sometimes collected from various "piss pots." After that, the skins were beaten with literal crap or soaked in animal brains to make the material more malleable. Thankfully, modern tanneries like Horween now have some decidedly more modern methods of getting the job done.
Screen Printing
Who Invented It: Song Dynasty
Year Introduced: 960 AD
Screen printing dates back to China's Song Dynasty, before being adapted by other Asian countries like Japan and spreading to Europe in the 18th Century. Its proliferation was largely due to the availability of silk mesh. Around 1911, American screen printers Roy Beck, Charles Peter and Edward Owens produced the first photographic screens after much experimentation, then in the '60s artists like Andy Warhol popularized the method on pieces like his brightly-colored renditions of Marilyn Monroe. Decades later, every other streetwear brand would use it as the backbone of their business.
Tartan
Who Invented It: Scottish Tribesmen
Year Introduced: 16th Century
While plaid-like patterns have existed as early at 400 BC, tartan's modern form is believed to have come from Scotland in the 16th Century. Originally, tartan was a way for Scottish inhabitants to set themselves apart, and a variety of laws and acts later established different tartans to distinct clans and army regiments. In 1822, King George IV's visit to Edinburgh boosted the fabric's popularity, and helped cement the tartan kilt to its current status as a Scottish national treasure.
Lounge Suits
Who Invented It: King Charles II
Year Introduced: 1666
The modern suit is a derivative of the "lounge suit" popularized in the Edwardian era and the late 19th century. That traces its origins to King Charles II, who decreed in 1666 that all men in the English Court should wear a long coat, a waistcoat, a cravat (a precursor to the necktie), knee breeches (trouser ancestors), wigs, and hats. Obviously, the styles have changed dramatically, but the basic outline was there. British dandies like Beau Brummell helped popularize the style, as well as grooming practices like bathing daily.
Plimsolls
Who Invented It: Liverpool Rubber Company
Year Introduced: 1830s
Developed as beachwear by the Liverpool Rubber Company, the canvas/rubber sneaker was dubbed the "plimsoll" after a ship's Plimsoll line—where the hull of a ship meets the surface of the water. Like a boat, anything above the rubber "Plimsoll line" would get wet. Later on, the Liverpool Rubber Company would be acquired by Dunlop, who would go on to make its own sneakers in the 1920s. Without these, you wouldn't have Chucks, Vans, or any other shoe that combines canvas with rubber.
Trench Coat
Who Invented It: Aquascutum/Burberry
Year Introduced: 1850s
Developed as a lightweight alternative to greatcoats in WWI, both Burberry and Aquascutum claim to have invented the "trench coat," named after the war's infamous trenches. While Thomas Burberry submitted a design UK Officer's raincoat made of a gabardine fabric he invented as early as 1901, Aquascutum's claims date back to 1853, when tailor John Emary invented the first waterproof wool. Aquascutum's fabric was covering soldiers as early as the Crimean War in the 1850s.
The Goodyear Welt
Who Invented It: Charles Goodyear, Jr.
Year Introduced: 1869
Thanks to the Goodyear welt, expensive dress shoes and work shoes could get repeated leases on life. The machine was invented by Charles Goodyear, Jr., and it replaces the hand-sewn process of welting shoes. Yes, the manufacturing process drives up the cost of footwear, but it also makes the quality much, much, better than cheaper alternatives.
5-Pocket Jeans
Who Invented It: Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis
Year Introduced: 1890
Levi Strauss and tailor Jacob Davis patented what would become the first jeans in 1873. In 1890, their patent was set to run out, meaning other companies could make jeans too. Levi's dubbed their iconic fit the 501, with the number "5" designated for products made with the highest-quality materials possible. The trucker jackets would be "506," and so on. Although the first model of 501s were slightly different, such as only having one back pocket and cinch-back details, the same attention-to-detail still applies today.
Button-Down Collar
Who Invented It: Brooks Brothers
Year Introduced: 1896
Designed with polo players in mind, the button-down collar shirt had its roots in the world of casual style. Men didn't want their collars flopping in their faces on horseback, so Brooks Brothers applied this easy fix. Since then, the button-down collar oxford has gone from the world of sportswear to classic menswear. There are still some purists who claim you can't wear it with a suit, though.
Custom Footbeds
Who Invented It: Konrad Birkenstock
Year Introduced: 1897
Konrad Birkenstock set the company's legacy when he developed the first contoured insole used by shoemakers in 1897. He followed that up with the first flexible arch support in 1902. The cork and rubber footbeds conform to the wearer's feet, resulting in a more comfortable shoe. Karl Birkenstock took that insole and turned it into a shoe, forming the basis for what Birkenstock is known for today... just in time to be embraced by flower children and counter-culture.
Mackinaw Wool Jackets
Who Invented It: C.C. Filson
Year Introduced: 1897
Clinton C. Filson founded the Pioneer Alaska Clothing and Blanket Manufacturers in Seattle to outfit pioneers and prospectors looking to make their fortune in the Klondike Gold Rush. The Mackinaw wool was famed for its warmth and durability—it absorbs a crapload of water without becoming damp at all, and since Filson owned his own mill and manufacturer, he was able to keep costs reasonable.
Complicated Watches
Who Invented It: Alfred Davis and Hans Wilsdorf of Rolex
Year Introduced: 1905
Rolex's innovations in the timepiece industry are countless. The Oyster, introduced in 1926, was the first waterproof wristwatch. The Rolex Datejust, which debuted in 1945, was the first wristwach to feature an automatically changing date on the dial, and 1956's Rolex Day-Date was the first wristwach to feature an automatically changing day and date on the dial. Not to mention they improved upon existing technology like self-winding watches. The Rolex Oyster Perpetual revolutionized automatic watches, by increasing the amount of energy in the mainspring, the watch could run itself for 35 hours.
Seersucker Suits
Who Invented It: Joseph Haspel
Year Introduced: 1909
Seersucker has its roots in British Colonial India—the fabric gleans its name from the Hindustani term "kheer aur shakkar," meaning "milk and sugar," referring to its simultaneously bumpy and smooth texture. In 1909, Joseph Haspel of New Orleans discovered the fabric and thought suits made out of it would be a perfect solution to Louisiana heat. Ironically, they started off being embraced by the poor, until college students in the 1920s started wearing them rebelliously to make a statement. Now, they're a southern style staple.
Duck Boots
Who Invented It: Leon Leonwood Bean
Year Introduced: 1912
L.L. Bean started his business with this one product: a combination of a rubber sole and lightweight leather upper. He guaranteed refunds for anyone unhappy with the boots, and as a result had to refund 90% of the first 100 boots when the rubber began to crack. As such, Bean started to develop a reputation for two things. One was quality customer service, and the second was a desire to make a high-quality product. He enlisted the help of the United States Rubber Company for a better boot, set up shop in Freeport, Maine, and the rest is history.
The Zipper
Who Invented It: Gideon Sundback
Year Introduced: 1913
Sewing machine inventor Elias Howe received a patent for the zipper's precursor in 1851: an "Automatic, Continuous Clothing Closure." This device however, wasn't really like the zippers we know of today. It was Whitcomb Judson's "Clasp Locker" that set the precedent for the modern zipper. His Universal Fastener Company debuted at the 1893 Chicago World's Fair, but it wasn't really successful. It wasn't until 1911 when Gideon Sundback, now head designer of what was now called Talon, Inc., devoted himself to getting the fastener right, and by December 1913 had invented the modern "zipper," a term that came to fruition years later, in 1923. The B.F. Goodrich Company used Sundback's fastener on a pair of rubber boots and called it a "zipper," and the name stuck—much like the invention is prone to, sometimes.
Waxed Cotton Jackets
Who Invented It: Eli Belovitch and Harry Grosberg of Belstaff
Year Introduced: 1924
Belstaff is notable for being the first company to ever use waxed cotton fabric. Its famous Roadmaster silhouette was designed with motorcyclists in mind, and the belted, military-inspired field jacket has seen numerous re-interpretations and knock-offs ever since.
The Langsdorf Tie
Who Invented It: Jesse Langsdorf
Year Introduced: 1924
While the necktie's roots can be traced to cravats worn by Croatian mercenaries in the Thirty Years' War, the modern necktie was invented by tailor Jesse Langsdorf, who came up with the concept of cutting fabric on a bias and then sewing it in three segments. At the time, ascots were much more popular, but this innovation, combined with new construction methods like the slipstitch, led to the cleaner silhouette of the "Langsdorf" tie becoming prevalent.
Polo Shirt
Who Invented It: René Lacoste
Year Introduced: 1926
Tennis outfits of the 19th and early 20th centuries consisted of "tennis whites" made of long-sleeved shirts, ties, and flannel trousers. They weren't the most comfortable things to wear. Tennis legend René Lacoste wanted to wear something better, so he designed the first polo shirt out of piqué cotton with a longer "tennis tail" in the back. Making its debut at the 1926 U.S. Open, the American press began calling him "The Crocodile," a nickname he embraced. Which is exactly why he started having a crocodile embroidered on the left chest of all his gear—especially his polo shirts.
The Perfecto Jacket
Who Invented It: Irving Schott
Year Introduced: 1928
Irving Schott introduced this iconic motorcycle jacket to the world, but named it after his favorite cigar. The reason? He didn't think his Jewish family name would sell the garments. Ironic then, that Schott has since become the standard for all other moto jackets.
Sanforization
Who Invented It: Sanford Lockwood Cluett
Year Introduced: 1930
Ever wonder why all jeans don't shrink and stretch the same? It's all because of sanforization. Essentially, fabric is put into a machine that moistens, stretches, and shrinks it all before it's cut into clothing, meaning that it won't shrink again (or much) after subsequent washes. The result? Clothes that will fit you forever, provided you don't get fat.
Aloha Shirts
Who Invented It: Ellery Chun
Year Introduced: 1930s
Ellery Chun was the owner of the King-Smith Clothiers and Dry Goods shop, and began making these floral shirts out of leftover kimono fabric, and sold them primarily with tourists in mind. The Honolulu Advertiser coined the term "Aloha Shirt" when he ran his first ad for them in 1935, and the name stuck. Chun trademarked it, and soon dozens of other companies were setting up shop to produce their own versions.
Nylon
Who Invented It: Wallace Carothers
Year Introduced: 1935
Engineered as an alternative to silk, nylon found many military applications in WWII, like being used for tires, parachutes, flak jackets, tents, and classic outerwear like the MA-1 Bomber Jacket. Nowadays, Carothers' invention is used to make streetwear staples like coaches' jackets and water-resistant raincoats, among many, many other uses.
Siped-Sole Boat Shoes
Who Invented It: Paul Sperry
Year Introduced: 1935
Paul Sperry was an avid boater who was tired of the high risk of slipping on his boat (#yachtproblems). He got the inspiration for his boating shoe after seeing the way his cocker spaniel, Prince, adroitly navigated icy Connecticut conditions. His dog's grooved feet gave him the idea for the Top-Sider's siped soles, and they've been selling to boaters, wannabe yachters, and a staple on preppy feet.
Down Jacket
Who Invented It: Eddie Bauer
Year Introduced: 1940
Eddie Bauer invented the first quilted down jacket, setting the stage for performance outerwear. In addition, his company was the first independent company that the U.S. Army hired to produce gear and allowed them to keep their logo on all standard-issue equipment. So when you're ogling over The North Face and Nigel Cabourn gear, remember that it wouldn't be possible if it hadn't been for Bauer's Skyliner.
AirWair Soles
Who Invented It: Klaus Märtens
Year Introduced: 1945
The titular Dr. Klaus Märtens was a German army doctor who injured his ankle during a ski trip in the Bavarian Alps in 1945. While recovering, he found his standard-issue army boots too uncomfortable to wear, so designed an air-padded sole made of tires and a soft leather upper. When he returned to the city, he went into business with Luxembourger Dr. Herbert Funck, and used discarded rubber from Luftwaffe airfields to make the shoes. The kicks were a huge hit with German housewives at first. It wasn't until their introduction to the English market in the 1960s that they received the workwear connotations they're known for today. British licensee R. Griggs Group Ltd. manufactured the shoes in the United Kingdom, added the trademark yellow stitching and coined the term "AirWair" for the soles.
T-Shirts
Who Invented It: Unknown
Year Introduced: 19th Century
The T-shirt is thought to have been adopted from European soldiers and laborers, who wore them as undergarments. The earliest recorded graphic tee popped up in 1948, when presidential candidate Thomas E. Dewey had shirts emblazoned with "Dew It With Dewey," albeit he still lost to Truman. In the 1950s, the T-shirt as standalone garment became commonplace casual wear for men, thanks in part to guys like Marlon Brando and WWII veterans.
Mass-Produced Crepe-Soled Desert Boots
Who Invented It: Nathan Clark
Year Introduced: 1949
Nathan Clark spotted Army officers stationed in Burma wearing crepe-soled rough suede boots that they'd puchased from bazaars in Cairo. The soldiers found they were hard-wearing enough for daily duties but lightweight and comfortable enough to never stop wearing them. Clark returned to Somerset, England in 1949, and recruited pattern-cutter Bill Tuxhill to recreate the two-piece upper and crepe sole boot. He added a round toe last and they started selling them throughout Europe. A year later, in debuted on American soil at the 1950 Chicago Shoe Fair.
Waterproof Injection-Molded Boots
Who Invented It: The Swartz family
Year Introduced: 1965
Timberland started with Nathan Swartz, who bought the Abington Shoe Company and eventually brought his sons into the family business. In 1965, they introduced injection-molding technology into the footwear industry, allowing them to connect the soles to leather uppers without stitching. The result was a virtually waterproof pair of boots.
Panel-Loading Daypacks
Who Invented It: Murray Pletz
Year Introduced: 1967
The "Jan" in "JanSport" is named after Pletz's wife Janice "Jan" Lewis. JanSport innovated on top-loading daypacks by introducing panels that campers could load their gear into. The company also introduced the first convertible travel pack in 1975, and its signature daypack as well, which kids have been carrying variations of to school for years.
Gore-Tex
Who Invented It: Wilbert L. Gore, Rowena Taylor, and Robert W. Gore
Year Introduced: 1976
In the spirit of performance fabrics, Gore-Tex ushered in a new era of synthetics. Essentially a porous form of Teflon, Gore-Tex formed the basis of other similar products, like the extremely windproof Windstopper fabric. Today, Gore-Tex is one of the best waterproof synthetics out there, and pioneered the movement towards outerwear meant to withstand mother nature's worst.