The 25 Best Brands And Designers Of The #Menswear Era

It's safe to say that too much ink has been spilled covering the cultural phenomenon known as #menswear. From unnecessarily high-brow fuckery to an ironic book that shall remain nameless because it was written by very same guy who cuts my checks, #menswear has grabbed the attention of dudes across the Internetz through the omnipotent power of social media. While mainstream America is finally catching on to the benefits of tailored clothing and well-designed footwear, for us die-hard dork types, #menswear’s rise paralleled the rise of Tumblr-based blogging and Twitter-based ranting circa late 2008 up until now.

Because #menswear gave way to the general acceptance of a certain desire to look good, it in turn afforded a whole new level of creativity from a handful of ambitious and emerging brands and designers. If we really want to understand #menswear at face value, our best bet is to observe and quantify those under its loosely defined umbrella. Let's just get it out of the way and say that any discussion of #menswear is, at best, dogma and, at worst, conversational masturbation. However, we the best, so fuck it. Above, we honor those that paved the way for a generation of sartorially inclined gentleman and helped propel an often change resistant industry.

Jake Woolf is a writer living in New York City. You can read his blog here and follow him on Twitter here.

25. White Mountaineering

Technical outerwear is practically a staple in any #menswear wardrobe nowadays thanks largely in part to the work of Japanese label White Mountaineering. For years, brands like North Face and Patagonia dictated the landscape of water-repellent gear, but WM took the basic idea of Gore-Tex + taped seams and made that shit truly desirable rather than just a necessity when fending off inclement weather. As is to be expected of any rare Japanese brand, White Mountaineering quickly earned a reputation as one of the most expensive in the game, although, unlike with a brand such as visvim, you know what you’re paying for is practicality and not an artificially inflated brand image. Additionally, WM’s pattern and fair isle game has long been one of the nest out there, executing knits that seem impossible season after season. They also make super dope cashmere socks that retail for about a buck 70. You mad?

24. Uniqlo

When it comes to affordable basics every other mass retailer can get all the way the fuck outta here forever because that’s Uniqlo’s house. In many ways, Uniqlo goes against everything #menswear stands for—made in China, produced in bulk, tourists love it—but Uniqlo is simply proof that when the clothes look good enough, are inexpensive enough and fit well enough, dudes will throw all their ideologies into the fucking trash. How can anyone pass up $6 dollar slim fit solid tees in every color under the rainbow, $30 oxford cloth shirts, $40 chinos and $5 boxers? Besides, any brand that can bring a fashion legend like Jil Sander out of retirement deserves major props.

23. Club Monaco

J.Crew paved the way for flyover state bros to appreciate #menswear, yet Club Monaco quickly adopted their model and some would say did it better. Their shift from Thom Browne knock off to #menswear powerhouse can be attributed in part to the hiring of Aaron Levine, one of #menswear’s favorites and formerly of Hickey (R.I.P). Levine’s strategy since taking the reins has been partly to adopt the 3rd party brand model pioneered by J.Crew (at CM you’ll find Mark McNairy & Rancourt shoes alongside 3sixteen denim and Earnest Alexander bags), but also with a fearless design approach that tests the limits of what “regular guys” will wear. Where Club Monaco has surpassed J.Crew in the past year is in its understanding that like all trends, #menswear’s obsession with hyper-americana workwear was not lasting forever. Instead, CM finds inspiration in a mix of heritage, Italian tailoring and far flung cultures, resulting in today’s best chain retailer in #menswear.

22. Suitsupply

Suitsupply did for suits what Uniqlo did for basics. While we love ourselves some Isaia, the fact of the matter is, their prices are prohibitively expensive and their collections are ultimately better used as a sort of road map for how to dress than a catalog of what to buy. Suitsupply, which is actually a Dutch company, took cues from classic Neapolitan tailoring to create a clean and easy one-stop shop for guys looking to suit up while remaining fiscally responsible. Like Uniqlo, Suitsupply offers basically every variation of its signature product, meaning normal, non-baller guys (basically all of them) could have a suit that felt like it was made just for them without ponying up the dough for one. Top quality service is also a hallmark, which, combined with their disruptive business model, has made them the premiere location for affordable suits the world over.

21. Band Of Outsiders

Finding out that Scott Sternberg's Band of Outsiders collection is named after a 1964 Jean-Luc Godard film pretty much explains everything. Sternberg's preppy, yet unmistakably "too school for school" attitude set the stage for high-end casual menswear in the #menswear era. The label's unique take on the polo shirt through a healthy dose of hipster irony ("This Is NOT a Polo Shirt"), as well as Sternberg's connections to of-the-moment stars such as Donald Glover, Dave Franco, and Frank Ocean made Band of Outsiders the label for casual, somewhat wealthy chill cool bros. It's also the only brand to come out of Los Angeles in this era that can even claim to have kept pace with their east coast brethren.

20. A.P.C.

A wise man once referred to A.P.C.’s New Standard jean as “The Gateway Denim," and for good reason. Once #menswear guys understood the basics of quality raw selvedge, A.P.C. became the de facto entry level pair for guys who had until that point had only worn pre-washed boot cut jeans from Abercrombie. A.P.C. opened the floodgates for an unnecessary amount of raw denim companies to emerge over the past several years, all the while putting out wonderfully understated garments and, I don’t know, just straight up cool shit. Three years ago, they also enlisted an ingenious marketing campaign called the “Butler Worn Out” denim exchange program. In exchange for your well-worn A.P.C.’s you would get half off a new pair, while they would flip your old jawnz for twice the price. That shit was crazy smart and if nothing else, proved that Jean Touitou was indeed the coolest, smartest dickhead in the room.

19. Nike

Nike single handedly changed the #menswear footwear game. During its infancy, #menswear encouraged men to ditch their sneakers in favor of wingtips and double monks. That movement barely lasted a year no thanks to Nike’s relentless innovation. The prime example of their dominance in the #menswear casual footwear arena was with their Flyknit release in 2012. The shoe’s sleek appearance, coupled with enough manufacturing innovation literature to keep any #menswear nerd occupied for days, made it the most purchased sneaker amongst the dudes talking about clothes on the Internet community since maybe ever. Seriously, if you think you’re a blogger, but don’t own any Flyknits, shut down your servers, sell your URL and call it a day. Somewhere along the line, this general acceptance of sneakers blurred the line between #menswear and #streetwear, which is more or less the clusterfuck we find ourselves in today.

18. Boglioli

The main things that separates Italian tailoring from, say, British or American tailoring, all have to do with their approach to fit, shoulder structure, color and wash. Where a bespoke Savile Row suit is essentially a straightjacket constructed out of durable wool with aggressive roped shoulders, an Italian suit is none of those things. Particularly, when it comes to wash, there is a certain delicate touch that the better Italian brands employ to achieve the ultimate in ease and sophistication. No brand has quite mastered the art of the wash the way Boglioli has. While its name might not have have the cache that Cucinelli or Isaia do, Boglioli stands to teach everyone in the #menswear arena a thing or two when it comes to striking the perfect balance between dressed up and dressed down. Hopefully, two years later, you can finally pronounce their name right. It's "Bowl-lee-oh-lee" btw.

17. Ian Velardi

Ian Velardi’s inaugural presentation for the F/W 2013 season displayed arguably the best clothes of the season. PERIOD. Velardi is inspired by a broad range of topics—old movies, street style, formula one racing pro athletes—each of which works its way into the collection in both understated and sometimes literal ways. (This dude made an actual racing suit that you could buy at Barneys). While his label just launched in 2011, he has quickly earned a reputation for creating highly wearable clothes that are not just for fashion savvy men, but men in general. The guy is a true one man show, working out of apartment with minimal help from others. Above all, Velardi's rare talent for making universally appealing clothing shines through in his garments, but perhaps more rare is his ability to create clothing that seems to have the classic characteristics of a brand that will conquer the biggest challenge of all: TIME. So many designers in today’s #menswear landscape characterize their clothes are “timeless classics,” which, in case you haven’t already figured out, is code for “fucking boring as fuck”. Ian Velardi has never been boring as fuck.

16. Woolrich Woolen Mills

Woolrich Woolen Mills was one of those brands that arrived to the #heritage scene early enough to still be taken seriously. Daik Suzuki's passion has always been reinventing American classics paired with Japanese sophistication and attention to detail, making Woolrich's archives the perfect place for his inspiration. The reins have since been handed off to Mark McNairy, who has brought his own flavor in terms of print, pattern and general irreverence. Some prefer the more classic offerings of Daiki, but no matter what your aesthetic preference, WWM remains one of the premiere examples of archive design done right.

15. Robert Geller

Robert Geller solidified his place amongst #menswear’s finest after taking home the 2009 GQ Best New Menswear Designer Of The Year trophy and subsequently releasing a stellar collaboration with Levi’s (I still regret not copping that trucker jacket with the wool lining back in the day). Since then, his runway shows have become one of the most buzzed about at NYFW. This past season, his knock-out runway show even drew the likes of Knick’s superstar J.R. Smith. Geller’s clothes are important to #menswear not because they are the wearable despite being high-fashion and fairly conceptual, but because they don’t dwell in the past. Geller’s offerings are always looking forward, predicting what guys will be wearing in years to come rather than paying homage to what they did wear 50 years ago.

14. Isaia

Isaia represents the best version of the 9-5 Italian you. An Isaia suit (or, really, an Isaia anything, for that matter) is symbolic in the #menswear world as a sign you’ve “made it," mostly because you better have made a lot of fucking guap if you intend on buying one of their suits, which retail upwards of $3000. When it comes to quality and fabrication in here simply is no one who does it better than the Neapolitan king wearing the red coral crown.

13. visvim

What started out as luxurious streetwear evolved into one of the most elusive and covetable labels in the #menswear era. Behind the hype is head designer Hiroki Nakamura, who is more elusive than a Yeti and spends months at a time immersing himself in local cultures in order to churn out what he considers truly authentic clothing. visvim made the conscious decision in the late 2000s to produce less and charge more, turning their attention to individual pieces in an effort to create the best clothing on the market in terms of quality. Whether or not that’s true is impossible to prove, but with intentions this pure, its hard to argue against their success. Even if indigo-dyed hand-woven robes aren’t your thing, there’s still the ever-desirable and instantly recognizable FBT sneaker. You can say “Oh, those are ugly,” but you’d just be lying to yourself, homie. Everyone wants a pair of FBTs.

12. Supreme

Supreme’s ability to bridge the gap between #streetwear and #menswear is what earns them a spot on this list. For starters, the #menswear movement owes much of its rise to Tumblr, a platform that, according to my own estimation, is roughly 93% Supreme pictures. Even if Supreme weren’t the overly-discussed black hole of hype that it most assuredly is, it still produced some of the best #menswear gear of any label over the past 5 years, collaborating time and time again with brands your favorite brand wishes it was.

11. J. Crew

It's as if the #menswear movement blew up as soon as J.Crew decided to go from catalog-centric uber-prep label to the industry standard of well made, affordable Americana classics. With famed CEO Mickey Drexler at the helm, J.Crew expanded its business by getting smaller, signaled by the opening of specialty shops like The Liquor Store and teaming up with third party, quality labels, which earned them (and the larger idea of #menswear) some serious respect amongst the greater populace. Without J.Crew, it’s easy to imagine a world without dudes in Red Wing boots, chambray shirts, Barbour jackets and Fair Isle sweaters. In many ways, J.Crew killed the heritage/Americana aesthetic by bringing it mainstream, but you can’t discredit them for recognizing what was hot and doing it pretty damn well.

10. Gant Rugger

Although Gant's history spans more than a half-century, their resurgence in America can be traced to the success of Gant Rugger, which was resurrected almost a decade after the company transitioned to Swedish Ownership. 2008 saw the re-release of Take Ivy, which glorified a hyper-preppy aesthetic. This created space for brands like Rugger to re-introduce classic staples, like madras shirts and cable knit sweaters, geared towards a younger, Internet-bred generation. Unlike, say, Ralph Lauren, Rugger's strength has been its, and Creative Director Christopher Bastin's, self awareness and accessibility as a brand that exists heavily within the #menswear space, utilizing bloggers and memes to increase brand awareness. Gant Rugger has always felt like a democratic brand that listens and caters to their customer base—for the people, by the people, but not really by the people, but it's totally cool if they think that.

9. Engineered Garments

While workwear and heritage eventually became marketing ploys used to lure the #menswear community in nonstop buying, they have long been a part of Engineered Garments' DNA since its inception in 1999. Like it or not, Japanese brands have long been taking American staples and doing them better than we ever could. E.G., an early adopter due purely to a love and reverence of the genre, is the baby of renowned menswear designer Daiki Suzuki, who simply has a knack for crafting perfectly understated garments.

8. Junya Watanabe

Oh kemosabe, do you own any Junya Watanabe? Probably not because Junya's workwear-inspired patchwork joints are some of the most expensive in the game. But that's not to say you don't love it either way. Each collection's riff on a new batch of chore jackets, khakis, denim and shirting prove that no one can combine unique fabrications with classic silhouettes quite like Junya. Much like his mentor Rei Kawakubo, Junya basically lives in hiding and never gives interviews, allowing the clothes to speak for themselves. Luckily for him, the bold pieces he creates speak volumes, even if most of what they say is simply, "Holy fucking shit look at how dope I am." The #menswear era cannot take sole credit for Junya's success as a designer, but it can be credited with helping to solidify his place amongst the true legends of men's fashion.

7. Brunello Cucinelli

As soon as you slip on the Brunello's slim cargos and thinly quilted down vests, you instantly feel like a better man because you are one. The King of Cashmere has truly established himself, and his brand, as one of the few true purveyors of lifestyle during the #menswear era. With seeds of a budding, Italian Ralph Lauren being planted with each subsequent showing at Pitti, Brunello Cucinelli is becoming one of the biggest, emerging luxury businesses out there. BUY STOCK.

6. Thom Browne

Thom Browne's cropped suit was a straight up game changer whether you's be caught dead in one or not. Without his miniature grey flannel suits of the mid to late 2000s, men might still be sporting jackets with shoulders big enough to be confused for football pads—another look Thom literally sent down the runway in one of his patented showy mindfucks. As it is with most high-fashion, his directional look filtered down through the masses. Nowadays, even when you walk into somewhere like J.Crew, suits have narrow lapels, are more form fitting and even feature pants tailored with no break. Thom's aesthetic became so iconic that even American suiting giant Brooks Brothers recruited him to breath life into their somewhat lifeless offerings with Black Fleece. TB is the perfect example of how one iconic look can propel a designer into the limelight and allow them to build a brand off of a singular success. You can even spot his dresses on none other than the first lady herself. Now that's what the fuck we call an #influencer.

5. Ovadia & Sons

In terms of what we’ve defined as “the #menswear era," Shimon and Ariel Ovadia effectively arrived relatively late, having released their first collection in 2010. Their move onto the scene wasn't exactly a loud one, but the label instantly garnered recognition because they're one of those rare brands that knows it doesn't have to reinvent the wheel to be successful. The clothes are best appreciated in person, where top quality construction and fabrication can truly be felt and understood. At the end of the day, is Ovadia & Sons changing the game? No. But Ariel and Shimon Ovadia make some really, really, nice shit, which when you take a step back from the hashtag is really what matters most. Today not only can you buy their eponymous collection, but the newly-christened J.Press York Street as well. When a company that has been dressing men for over a century turns to you for your expertise, you know you've arrived.

4. Umit Benan

Umit Benan made headlines in recent months thanks to his controversial and public exit from Trussardi, but it's his own collection that continues to make the biggest impact on #menswear. Just as American men were catching onto the idea of slim fit suits, Umit went ahead and said fuck that noise and dropped a line of beautifully crafted Italian suits in an unmistakably 80's silhouette. For reasons unknown, that shit worked incredibly well and garnered widespread critical acclaim from both fashion's elite and the #menswear community. Benan, again, took a sharp left turn, this time towards "street goth" with his Fall/Winter 2013 runway show and proved that he is one of those rare designers who is perpetually one step ahead of everyone else. Conceptually, Umit Benan might be the most important designer in men's fashion working today thanks to his ability to translate and distill specific influences into universal clothing that appeals to literally everyone.

3. Billy Reid

Billy Reid is heralded as the Southern Ralph Lauren, although that description doesn't really do justice to his label's unique accomplishments. After struggling for years in the wake of 9/11, the brand was revived at the perfect time, just when #menswear was moving full force into its vortex of "heritage" and "workwear". This gave Billy the perfect lane for his sophisticated, good ol' boy take on Americana. Since 2008, Reid has won not only GQ’s Best New Menswear Designer of The Year, but the v crucial CFDA Best Menswear Designer Of The Year, which he took home in 2010. Both were extremely well-deserved because of Reid's genuine attitude and for the actually clothes themselves, which are some of the select few that still make us give a shit about "Americana"/"heritage". This is what happens when you choose not to exploit your influences. Everyone else should be taking notes.

2. Mark McNairy

Mark's showing up on this list off of the strength of his footwear alone. In fact, there may not be a more important and influential men's footwear designer of the past 5 years. His English oxfords, loafers and double monk straps re-defined what was possible for "proper" footwear by combining traditional silhouettes with unique prints, patterns and a host of bold colors. The Mark McNairy brand has now expanded into a full range of apparel and a shitton of collaborations with everyone from Pharrell to Adidas. People love McNasty because he is a designer who will say whatever the fuck he wants regardless of who gets butthurt, which, in a world of tip-toeing and ass-kissing, may very well be his greatest asset—his amazing “Tuperware 13” trollwear shirt serving as a prime example. Mark's designs are simply a mirror of his own, very real “fuck you” attitude, which we all can relate to.

1. Michael Bastian

Michael Bastian is by far one of New York's biggest designers to emerge during the #menswear era. His recent collaboration of polos with mega-Japanese retailer Uniqlo serves as a testament to his rise. After serving as the Men's Fashion Director of Bergorf Goodman, he launched his eponymous collection in 2006 and instantly drew rave reviews for his modern and inexplicably fresh take on prep staples such as rugby shirts, corduroy pants and polos. To date, his F/W 09 "On The Road" offering has been the definitive point in the brand's young history, mixing Bastian's signature blend of forward-thinking designs with expert tailoring. Shortly after, he partnered with legendary American (now Swedish) label Gant on a capsule collection that has existed under the name "Gant by Michael Bastian" since Fall 2010. While he took a short break due to manufacturing complications in 2011, ending his partnership with Brunello Cucinelli, Gant and Uniqlo's faith in Bastian is indicative of the larger industry's acknowledgment that he is one of the few American designers working today who has the power to define the new American classics that are currently dominating menswear.