City: Brooklyn
: 359 Bedford Ave.

Anticipation is the key to the gastronomic tease and the meat purveyors at BrisketTown/Delaney Barbecue have it down to an erotic art. Beneath the peppery shell of their infamous brisket is a meat that has been slow-burned into Central Texas-style brisket bliss after 15 hours of foreplay.

Once an idea fostered on culinary curiosity by a man named Daniel Delaney with a rooftop small box cooker, Delaney Barbecue then opened BrisketLab as pop-up before graduating to the popular brick-and-mortar, BrisketTown. As well as lean or fatty brisket—always a man’s personal choice—are 8-spice rubbed pork ribs, smoked pulled pork, hot link sausages, a red chili made with chopped brisket and pulled pork, a slew of traditional sides like slaw, and pies to cleanse the peppery palate.