It seems like everyone these days is wearing a New Era 59Fifty fitted baseball cap. But it’s not just about the color of underbrims, unique colorways, old-school World Series patches, or what team you’re representing anymore. These days, some of the most coveted fitted hats boast embroidery that ranges from a simple branding hit—like those ever popular “MoMA” Yankee fitteds—to detailed renderings of palm trees or the Statue of Liberty. These types of hats are easy to find at Lids, Hat Club, your local mom and pop shop, or on New Era’s webstore these days.But you definitely won’t find those crazy embroidered fitteds that stars like Quavo and Wiz Khalifa are wearing as easily. That’s because those hats are essentially one of ones, produced in extremely limited batches out of a small apartment in Jacksonville, Florida, by a 29-year-old named Darius McQueen. He’s better known as Lordfubu, the founder of the brand Everything We Do Is Limited, which has held the custom New Era fitted game in a headlock. 

“The idea of bringing that whole TI$A snapback type of vibe on a fitted, I thought that was groundbreaking at the time,” says Lordfubu. “And it proved its point. You got big companies, New Era themselves, making their own general release versions of Lordfubu hats. It doesn’t bother me, it’s just funny to see.”