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Hypebeasts with limited budgets were hit especially hard yesterday—the black Riccardo Tisci AF1s dropped, Supreme’s summer sale began, and Kanye West’s second (and purportedly final) collaboration with French brand A.P.C. hit stores. This time around, the release went a lot more smoothly. A bigger collection meant more products, and introducing big ticket items into the mix like waxed cotton biker pants, cozy Alpaca-blend sweaters, and fur-lined outerwear into the mix meant most consumers would have to pick and choose what to cop and what to pass on.
I arrived at A.P.C.’s Bond Street store around 10 a.m., and found only four people in line. The recently-opened shop is neatly tucked away on a relatively quiet cobblestone street in SoHo. It’s located in an unassuming-yet-monied neighborhood teeming with the type of low-key high-earners whose overall aesthetic aligns with the understated French brand. To hedge my bets, I walked down to the Mercer Street flagship store and saw the line was about 30 people deep. It paled in comparison to the line for the Riccardo Tisci Air Force 1s outside the re-christened Nike Lab (formerly known as 21 Mercer), where easily a hundred people were waiting. I headed back to the Bond Street store and the line had grown—by three.
Once the doors opened, it was clear from the get-go that the staff had figured out some clockwork process to get product in customers’ hands. There was also a steady trickle of people that started coming in after the line. There was no typical customer. You had basic dudes wanting to work in one or two of the pieces into their existing wardrobe, the hypebeasts who came in, grabbed one or both of the Airport Sweaters and left, but most people seemed to want to take in the collection as a whole first, examining each piece and trying to see what, if anything other than the “Kanye” on the label, made it special. I took an up-close look at every item, getting a feel for the fabric, fit, and whether Kanye West’s latest foray into fashion surpassed his previous exploits.
The Details Have Been Amped Up
Kanye West is a man with a penchant for nuances, whether it's sampling the drums of Gary Glitter's "Rock and Roll Pt. 2" on "Black Skinhead" as a nod to the Chicago Bulls, or the snakeskin and hieroglyphic accents on the Air Yeezy 2. In the case of this particular collection, that discerning eye is exhibited through premium RiRi zippers on the outerwear and hardy cuff buckles on the Biker Pants which, when combined with a tough-ass English oiled cotton fabric and suede reinforcement at the hem, make them feel like a Belstaff jacket for your legs.
By contrast, the Army Pants feature a zip hem and straps at the knees allowing you to play with proportion. Outerwear-wise, the navy blue Bomber Jacket's overall austerity belies the dropped shoulders and cropped waist which allows for interesting layering options, while the sheepskin collar is absolutely cozy. The Swiss Army Parka has a back vent perfect for warmer weather, while the fur version essentially has a fur tail you can button on and off.
The Surplus Vibe Is Classic A.P.C.
The strongest influence in this collection is undoubtedly Jean Touitou's own archives, rife with roughly 27 years' worth of grail-worthy vintage finds from armed forces around the world. A.P.C.'s reimagined military clothes have been a staple of the label since its 1987 inception. A.P.C. x Kanye carries the torch well. Ironically, A.P.C. in army terms stands for "Armored Personnel Carrier," so the luxe surplus vibe of the collaboration could be interpreted as a different kind of armor, one that protects against flashy trends. That isn't to say it's a boring collection. The Army Sweater and Camo T-shirt for example, are both fabricated inside-out, so the pattern is actually on the reverse side. The Swiss Army Parka has authentic insignias on the collar, adding to the vibe.
What Flew Off the Shelves: The Airport Sweater
During the presentation of this collection in January, West showed a cream sweater with side slits that he described as "dope as fuck" and "like some shit I would wear to the airport." Perhaps that's where this cozy Alpaca-merino knit gets its name. The hem in the back is considerably longer than the front, and the sleeves don't have ribbed cuffs, since they're meant to stack on the arm. To be honest, it kind of feels like wearing a bathroom rug—in the best way that can possibly be taken. The fit is in direct contrast to the Army Sweater, which is considerably truer-to-size.
The Skinny On This Season's "Kanye Jeans"
The main difference between this season's pair of Kanye Jeans—available in a white denim and a stonewashed version once again—is that they're made of a considerably lighter fabric, and although they're still made with Japanese denim, neither pair is selvedge. The wash is slightly different from last season's too; it's a tad darker. Like a good summer jean, the weight clocks in around 10-11 ounces, compared to the 13 ounces of the first version.
The top block has been made more proportional at the waist, but the seat remains roomy, which results in a drop crotch look that lets the super skinny legs stack nicely (especially—if you take your styling cues from the presentation—over a pair of wheat Timbs). It's a silhouette that provides a great contrast with the otherwise oversized tops in the collection.
Favorite Piece: The Work Shirt
Another standout item is the Work Shirt, made from a 13 oz. Japanese denim that's noticeably heavier than its jean counterparts. The top button reuses the donut buttons on the jean placket, while the others are faux mother of pearl, and the asymmetrical pockets add a nice touch to fans of brands like Engineered Garments. There's even a pen holder on the right breast pocket that's perfect for storing a Caran d'Ache (or equally nice writing utensil) as a final flourish. A contrasting white bias trim at the hem was made with street style photographer Tommy Ton in mind, while small side vents in lieu of a gusset let basics like the T-shirts flow nicely underneath.
It's Impossible to Try On the Fur Parka Without Snapping A Photo
A store manager told me that the nickname for the $2,865 fur parka is the "selfie jacket," since it's pretty irresistible to not take a photo once anyone puts it on. Made of Italian technical cotton, it's partially lined with natural grey fox fur sourced from the US. Unlike the fur-lined Swiss Army Parka, the fur is not removable on the jacket, although it is on the hood. It's very, very warm, and looks like something that would serve the Night's Watch on Game of Thrones well. "Jawn Snow" jokes, anyone?
There's At Least One More Item That Hasn't Arrived In Stores Yet
Remember that A.P.C. Kanye beanie that Jean Touitou posted to Instagram two months ago? It's supposedly arriving in a week and a half. Fun fact about that patch: Translated, it roughly means "unarmed on the front line, right now." The same patch is on the navy sweatshirt in the line, albeit reversed. It's also kind of reminiscent of the classic Ralph Lauren cookie patch.
What Didn't Make the Final Cut: This Parka
During the initial presentation one standout item was this black parka, clearly taking its cues from a Rick Owens DRKSHDW coat that Kanye has often been spotted wearing. Unfortunately, it never saw the light of day when it came to production. Much of the criticism assailed at this particular line was that Kanye's influences were very apparent—he was making versions of stuff he wears regularly, like drapey tees, ski masks, and big, furry jackets. Besides Rick Owens, the line's fur-lined coats have been compared to Ermanno Scervino, and similarities have also been drawn between this collection's Army Pants and defunct cult menswear label Nom De Guerre's Para Pants from their Fall 2010 line. Regardless of the criticism, it would have been great to see this awesome piece on the racks.
Where to Try Your Luck At Buying Something
While it doesn't look like restocks are likely at A.P.C.'s online store, select pieces (like the Work Shirt) are still available. END Clothing and Très Bien have been dropping the collection little by little, although it's selling out at a steady pace. We debuted Seattle shop Totokaelo's first drop of the A.P.C. Kanye collection in this editorial, which has since sold out, but they will definitely be dropping more pieces in the coming weeks. So there's no need to flock to eBay just yet, where the asking prices are already getting ridiculous.