Image via Complex Original
For those of us not blessed enough to make the biannual pilgrimage to Pitti Uomo, Milan, Paris, New York or London, trade shows and Fashion Weeks are often a spectator sport coupled with a seemingly never-ending stream of street style photos, featuring a now well-known cast of characters from across the menswear world. But to be a true armchair aficionado, you need to know ALL the players, which is why we've decided to compile a primer on the most photographed, but unknown neo-icons. So, next time you're flipping through a slideshow of Tommy Ton shots, you aren't left wondering, "Who the fuck is that guy?"
Photos Courtesy of GQ and Tommy Ton
Jake Gallagher is a writer living in New York. Read his blog, Wax Wane, here and follow him on Twitter here.
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ChrisGibbs
Who they are: Ryan Eccles and Chris Gibbs, Union LA
Why they’re there: Buying up all the indigo dyed essentials and technical sportswear that the Pacific Coast could ever need.
What they wear: visvim, lots of it. With the occasional Thom Browne oxford thrown in there for good measure.
armandocabral
Who they are: Armando Cabral (right)
Why they’re there: Taking some time off from being the face of J. Crew to show off his eponymous footwear line.
What they wear: Armando Cabral footwear, of course, with slim fitting basics in soft tones.
Yasiin Bey_Shaka Maidoh,Sam Lambert
Who they are: Yasiin Bey (center) and Shaka Maidoh (left) and Sam Lambert (right) of Art Comes First
Why they’re there: Let’s face it, at this point the artist formerly known as Mos Def is simply a full-time professional cool guy, while Maidoh and Lambert are representing Art Comes First, a menswear collective that has recently manifested itself as a full collection.
What they wear: Slender suits, cropped trousers, tie bars and leather soled shoes. But, most importantly, hats. Always hats, at all times.
justindeanandrolandling
Who they are: Justin Dean and Roland Ling
Why they’re there: Transforming H.W. Carter from a nearly forgotten workwear brand into a Brooklyn based storefront that blends Japanese neo-prep brands with classic labels from America and beyond.
What they wear: Engineered Garments, chambray and utility cargos. Basically, anything that looks like it was washed at least ten times before it hit the racks.
kigomotofumi
Who they are: Kigo Motofumi aka "Poggy" (far left), United Arrows
Why they’re there: Aside from posing for the greatest “Mount Rushmore” picture to date? Well, they’re busy taking meetings and shaking hands to ensure that they continue to bring the best designs from across the world to the Land of the Rising Sun.
What they wear: From Dennis Rodman jersey’s to camo blazers to Shiba tote bags, the only appropriate answer is "everything".
Takahiro Kinoshita
Who he is: Takahiro Kinoshita
Why he's there: To keep up with everything the menswear world has to offer as the Editor-in-Chief of Popeye.
What he wears: Kinoshita is the god-king of modern Japanese style as seen through an American lense, so you can expect him to pull off anything from a camo M-65 to a seersucker suit.
hirokinakamura
Who he is: Hiroki Nakamura, visvim
Why he's there: Peddling patchwork indigo to the menswear masses, also probably meeting with John Mayer and Eric Clapton. And, of course, raising prices.
What he wears: visvim and Navajo dead pawn jewelry. Simply put, nothing else is good enough for Nakamura.
lapoelkan
Who he is: Lapo Elkann
Why he’s there: Partially to show off his new collaboration with Gucci. But mostly, just to show off.
What he wears: Impossible to predict, typically swinging somewhere between the comfortably classic and the nauseatingly gauche.
Angelo Flaccavento
Who he is: Angelo Flaccavento
Why he's there: The Italian-based writer is there to cover shows more eloquently than we’ll ever be able to understand, mostly because Google translate massacres his prose.
What he wears: Think European sailor around the turn of the century—soft shoulder jackets and wide legged, slightly cropped trousers, all in various shades of blue.
trunzobreen
Who they are: Brian Trunzo and Matthew Breen, Carson Street Clothiers
Why they’re there: To stock their Soho shop with everything from luxe Italian sportswear to avant garde Euro labels to classic American tailoring.
What they wear: A blend of capital F fashion brands and quintessential East Coast trad pieces, which come together in a style that’s as eclectic as their shop’s merchandise.
Carlos Castillo
Who they are: Carlos Castillo (right) and his personal doppleganger, MAN 1924
Why they’re there: To present MAN 1924, a Spanish brand that is defined by rich fabrics and casual tailoring.
What they wear: No one wears the brand better than Castillo himself—Spanish Sprezzatura at its absolute finest.
nicolaricci
Who they are: Nicola Ricci (right), Sciamat
Why he's there: As one half of the Sciamat tailoring team (along with his brother Valentino), Nicola is bringing the label’s designs to the masses.
What he wear's: His own label, which is easily identifiable by its exaggerated shoulder in the “con rollino” style.
Ethan Newton and Alan See
Who they are: Ethan Newton and Mark Cho, The Armoury
Why they’re there: Buying up the finest in Italian tailoring and bench-made footwear for their Hong Kong based shop.
What they wear: A blend of their shop’s offerings and custom makes. Generally, if you see someone non-Italian and everything looks perfectly Italian, they probably work for The Armoury.
dexterandbyronpert
Who they are: Dexter and Byron Peart, WANT Les Essentials de la Vie
Why they’re there: After cutting their teeth in the industry for years, the brothers Peart joined together to create a line of clean, every day bags.
What they wear: Big patterned tops with earth-toned pants below, paired with, at least, one of their bags.
Agyesh Madan
Who he is: Agyesh Madan, Isaia
Why he's there: As the Product Development Manager for Isaia, Madan is there representing the storied Neapolitan tailoring label.
What he wears: Isaia, be it MTM, samples, or standard pieces, with Belgian loafers or some covetable, custom footwear that recall his Indian roots.
Yasuto Kamoshita
Who they are: Yasuto Kamoshita (right), United Arrows/Camoshita
Why he’s there: The Creative Director of United Arrows is there to peddle his label’s various brands that mesh Americana with Neapolitan tailoring and Japanese eccentricity.
What they wear: The classics, but always in unexpected ways.
lucarubinacci
Who he is: Luca Rubinacci
Why he’s there: To embody the outlandish, yet timeless style that now defines his family’s legendary tailoring house.
What he wears: The most off-the-wall designs that the house of Rubinacci produces, as well as some extra out there custom pieces with enough mewelry to feed the #menswear tag on Tumblr for months. Oh yeah, and Oakley Frogskins that are so reflective they are almost illegal.
davidgandy
Who he is: David Gandy (right)
Why the's there: To look handsome while getting his photo taken, discover new ways to style his hair without his hands and maybe write a blog post for GQ UK.
What he wears: Mostly Savile Row.
Jakob_Tornberg_Hannes_Hogeman
Who they are: Simon Hogeman and Hannes Hogeman, Tres Bien Shop
Why they’re there: To continue their store’s reign as one of the most forward thinking retail operations in the world.
What they wear: A mish-mosh of high-end labels, Quickstrike Nikes, rare Japanese brands and, apparently, matching sunglasses because, you know, bros.
stephenmann
Who he is: Stephen Mann
Why he's there: Scouting and making contacts as one of the most influential stylists working in menswear today with a client list that includes everyone from Missoni to Rapha to Inventory Magazine to Arc'teryx Veilance.
What he wears: Pretty much anything that Takahiro Miyashita has ever touched. Mann has the uncanny ability to make insane pieces seem entirely wearable.
Simone
Who he are: Simone Righi
Why he's there: As the owner and operator of Frasi in Firenze (formerly known as Tie Your Tie), Righi is well-established as one of the most respected proprietors not only in Italy, but the world.
What he wears: Rich topcoats, subtly patterned suits and loud accessories. Righi's penchant for paisley scarves, cashmere caps and fine cigars have made him a hometown hero of Firenze's cobblestone streets.
linoleluzzi
Who he is: Lino Ieluzzi
Why he's there: Similar to his friend Simone Righi, Leluzzi owns the Milanese menswear boutique Al Bazar, bringing some of the finest brands in the world to northern Italy since 1969.
What he wears: Leluzzi is one of the true godfathers of "peacockery", so anything from unbuckled two tone double monks to double breasted peaks.
