Style

Simple Advice on How To Dress If You're Tall

Clothing advice, for the men who literally rise above the rest.

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Tall guys don't have it easy when it comes to getting dressed. Yes being tall has it's benefits, but when you realize that nearly every garment you plan to buy needs a tailor's touch in order to fit properly, buy clothes can get a little discouraging. Even if you try to shop online, there's a high chance you're just waiting for your gear to arrive...only to send it back to the store the same day. Don't even get us started on the woes of the "Big and Tall" (or should we say "fat and tall") clothing section.

Before you make the case that fashion models are taller, remember their career is wearing clothing that's been given extra attention by a fashion designer and/or tailor—and those garments are either worn only on the runway, or gifted after the fact. For the normal guy just trying to look nice at work or out at the bar, there's little chance that most men have the time or can afford to have every piece custom-designed around their needs.

While not all of us on the style team rise above the average male height, we can also appreciate that most guys don't want every piece in their closet to look like it shrunk in the wash (shouts to Thom Browne). In the interest of helping guys who rise above the average, this is Simple Advice on How To Dress If You're Tall.

What Exactly Is “Tall”?

Well according to a CDC study, the average height for the American male is approximately 70 inches, though most would round up, and consider the average height be around 5 feet, 9 inches. While we point out the average, most people would consider someone who is “tall” to be at least above six feet, but possibly even taller—closer to 6 feet, 5 inches or more in height. For the purposes of this piece, we'll be aiming to help out the guys who hit the latter benchmark. If you're the type of guy with longer than average limbs, or a higher waist (in relation to the rest of your torso), then you can also benefit from a few of these pointers.

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Outlining the basics

So you say you're tall? Well there's a few things that you should be looking to do with your wardrobe, regardless of season, style, or trends. Like anyone dressing appropriately for their body type, you want to strive for a visual balance that will make things aesthetically, and naturally, appealing. I

f you start out an look with color blocking in mind, you're already doing yourself a favor. How? The contrast creates a clean break from your top and bottom half, something that divides the kit—and evens out your body, visually. Even if you have to wear a suit (which we'll discuss a little later), this still isn't a dealbreaker. If you can wear something that's not matching (the classic navy blazer and chinos combo comes to mind), then you're still formal enough for the occasion, while still color blocking.

Other miniscule details you roll into your wardrobe include using print to add bulk to your upper half. We're not saying go full-on Bape camo every day, but adding print to anything from a sewn-on pocket, or an entire T-shirt will add bulk and dimension to your proportionally smaller upper half.

Horizontal stripes aren't your enemy

Unlike every other body type, when you're tall, horizontal stripes actually build out your proportion. As you cater your closet to your body type, you should realize that you best bet are things that break up you height—in order to create a visual balance. Guys with a more compact stature may look less flattering with wide stripes (visually it creates an aesthetic “stretching” effect around the torso), but considering you've got the height to compensate, that shouldn't be a problem.

It's important to note, if you're “big” as well as tall, you're better off avoiding these stripes, but don't freak out if the shirt you want is striped. If you're falling into this latter category, just opt for thin stripes instead of bars that are thick, or wide. If you're still hesitant to work in horizontal stripes, play it safe and try vertical stripes. While these are only going to accentuate your height, if you're going with a thicker vertical stripe, the effect won't be as drastic.

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Just because you're “oversized,” doesn't mean you're clothes need to be.

Most guys with a taller physique enter department stores with a two-sided dilemma. 1. Either you buy a shirt that has sleeves that are too short, or 2. you buy a shirt that fits in the sleeves, but is a solid size too big for your torso.

While it may sound crazy, a smarter strategy is to avoid buying a size up. Hear us out for a second. While most stores aren't going to tailor to those with longer limbs, you're also not doing yourself any favors by sizing up. Yes, you'll have the benefit of a longer shirt that may accommodate your shape, but (and this is especially true if you're grabbing shirts off the rack at department stores) you'll end up with ill fitting, possibly over-drapey shirting—especially when it comes to formal wear. While each body is different (and tastes are just as varied) look for shirts that can hit around two to five inches below your belt line. This way, you're bound to have some wiggle room, without having the fear that your casual shirts look like they should only be tucked in.

In the same vein, pants shouldn't be baggy to compensate for the appropriate inseam. If you have to buy pants that are bigger around the waist, make sure that you're looking for pants that have the ability to be taken in. This doesn't mean buying fabric-heavy pleated trousers though. Take solace in the fact that most guys have to have their pants “let out” to make extra room for their build. You're just having yours taken out for length, not width. If you're buying pants (whether formal or casual) at your local department store, chances are that the pants you have can easily be taken in in the crotch, butt, and waist. It's not perfect, but it will make once “oversized” trousers suddenly more wearable.

How to avoid “wearing a skirt”

Let's start by pointing out, as Kanye proved during the “Watch the Throne” tour, if you're interested in actually wearing a skirt, then just go for it. Simply put, do you.

Unfortunately, a more common occurrence (particularly for NBA players like James Harden), is that tall guys are accused of a wearing a mini skirt, when they're actually trying to work on their layering game. Considering that the pack of XL T-shirts you've copped at your local big box store usually end up more like a tent, it's really hard to layer a plain Hanes T-shirt without dealing with awkward billowing or excess fabric flowing around. When it comes down to it, if you want your layering game to come correct, you're going to have to look a little harder for tees that will fit you better. We're not implying you should be dropping huge stacks of cash in order to find proper T-shirts. American Apparel makes tall tees. If you're looking for something more substantial, John Elliott makes “extended” tees. Next time, when you're planning on layering up, you don't have to look like you're wearing a peplum skirt under your kit.

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Shopping online is inevitable, so shop smarter

There's a point when most guys of this height realize that shopping online is going to be an inevitability. While most prefer the in-store experience, most brick and mortars don't carry inseams that extend beyond 34”. This isn't the end of the world, but like anything else, you'll need to attack online shopping from a different perspective. Considering that most guys can usually get away with finding tees and shirts in-store (even though those products do have their own issues), pants are the more common trouble point. Sadly, this is the trickier thing to nail down—but not impossible.

For starters, try to cross examine product shots. Brands like Levi's have plenty of product that can accommodate a longer leg, but the accompanying imagery can make their gear look unflattering. If you're trying to buy something in a widely-carried brand, try to find the same product at another retailer and cross-reference the images. Yes, this seems wild unnecessary, but when you've looked everywhere and you can't find the “right” pants, the problem could be that the images aren't making any of the options look like a good buy.

If shopping is simply too much of a hassle, do your best to find a handful of online successes, and stick with them. Considering that most men generally need about three pairs of pants to carry them through day-to-day (jeans, black pants, light chinos), once you find a brand that you can trust, there's no shame in returning to the same style and brand.

Mall brands? No problem.

As we've mentioned, online shopping can be a real hassle, turning into a guessing game of seeing how long something takes to show up on your doorstep—only to be sent back the same day it arrives. The perception that most big box stores are great at producing “clothes” but not very good at being “fashionable” only serve to draw more men into online shopping.

While popular fashion "perspective" isn't at the your local mall, this doesn't mean you can't scoop up some great pieces at your local chain stores, there's a reason J.Crew, Zara, and Club Monaco are as influential as they are. Like anything else, it's about perspective. These places may not have the cool T-shirt that's trending right this minute on your favorite menswear blogs, but these stores do thrive on supplying affordable versions of runway pieces and seasonal staples. A quick walkabout in any of the aforementioned brands' physical locations are rife, not just with classics, but contemporary takes on today's trends. Head to your mall brands for the basics where brand names aren't important (white shirts, chinos, etc.), and leave the statement or specific items to your online shop.

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Heading Out(erwear)

Outerwear is best served one of two ways. Cropped jackets, like bombers, will look better on your frame because (like much of the material mentioned before) it divides your body at a higher waistline. Yes this may accentuate your height, but as a silhouette that more naturally conforms to the way your body is built, it will still flatter.

On the other hand, you can go for a coat that would hit your leg in the middle of the thigh, like a mac or trench, which will bring the focus down lower on your body, and creating a more neutral visual balance. Regardless of length, taller guys can always opt for a double-breasted coat. While guys who are stockier may look thicker with the broader chest that double-breasted jackets imply, that affect rounds out the overall appearance of someone who is lankier; creating a cleaner overall look and balance.

“So long and lanky, my suit it should thank me.”

Jay had it right, being tall really makes suiting up a little more enjoyable than another other figure. Yes, formal wear still has its problems, but considering that clothes of this kind are meant to be tailored, you're already starting off on the right foot. In terms of shirting, you want to make sure that while your top is long enough, you also don't need any extra fabric to give you a muffin top when you're tucking in. Considering that this will vary from designer to designer, the best move is to just try things on, and see what sticks. Yes, there should be room, but going for “big & tall” will likely leave you with a shirt that would double as a formal tablecloth.

For trousers, definitely try to minimize the break in your pants. While you're not doing yourself any favors by giving your suit pants the “highwater” treatment, pooling fabric at the base of your leg will only emphasize your feet, your legs (and the fact that you had trouble finding a suit that fit properly). On the safe side, make sure there is a single half break in your trousers at the top of your shoe. If you're willing to show a bit more leg, opt instead for a trouser with no break at all—the hem effectively “floats” directly above your shoe. This theoretically flatters the leg, without exaggerating the proportion, or making your legs thicker.

In terms of overall shape, slim, not skinny, is your best bet. Too tight and you're caught looking like you were glued into your suit. Too loose, and you end up looking like a cross between a garbage bag and a Men's Warehouse employee. Either way, you won't like the way you look, we guarantee it™.

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Don't skip the tailors.

We're not saying you have to go to a tailor, but we're strongly recommending it. It's not just that a taller frame will benefit from a more custom fit; it's that any guy, regardless of size, looks better with clothes that are cut for their figure. While a lot of people would think that NBA players have the money to buy clothes that fit taller figures (and yes, that's probably the case), it's far more likely that they have the money to have all their clothes custom tailored.

No, we're not saying you need to have LeBron's bank account in order to benefit from a little closet T.L.C., but rather, focus on what pieces really need that custom cut in order to actually be wearable. Pants? Have the butt brought in (if they're oversized) or the legs brought down (if they're fine in the waist, but not in the length). Have suits tame altogether, with special attention given to trousers to prevent fabric pools at your feet. We could go on all day, but the point is that time (and money) spent at the tailor is money well spent—and you can take that to the bank.

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