Technically it's called the Estadio Alberto J. Armando, but to everyone in Buenos Aires it's La Bombonera, "The Chocolate Box." This barely standing relic in the La Boca section of the Argentine capital is home to Boca Juniors, Maradona's old squad (he still has a luxe box there), and when the home town team plays, you can expect flares, toilet paper, a massive party, chants you can hear in Uruguay—and if you pay attention, even futbol.