The dust from Melbourne Fashion Week has well and truly settled, and as every fashion photographer rests their hands and every fashion journalist rests their eyes and phones, at Complex AU, we know that your work has just begun. Now that the shows have come and gone, you’re left having to figure out which runway looks and pieces can you work into your wardrobe for the season ahead. In case your memory is a little rusty, we’re here to give you a recap of the week that was, and highlight some of our favourite designers.
The opening night of MFW kicked off with the Art x Fashion Runway, and it was here that Posture Studio offered their looks for fashion week. Posture Studio channels avant-garde garishness into beautiful compression knitwear, hoodies, and pants. In their runway giving, a trio of ballerinas performed captivating choreography, with slow pointed turns and well-structured movements—highlighting the fabric’s ability to move with the body. The compressed knitwear under the dancer’s tutus and the ruching both boasted Posture’s signature iconography, and with every movement, the motif could be spotted from a different angle. They say Balletcore is making a comeback, and if this is true, then Posture Studio is at the forefront of the trend.
Strateas Carlucci’s collection was titled Fantôme, a French word meaning ‘ghost’ or ‘spirit’. The brand honed in on the idea of ‘yearning’ with this collection, and it’s the idea of ‘distance’ that Carlucci wanted to focus on. The collection was showcased at the State Library of Victoria, and the models were perched upon cabinets of archival literature, forcing the audience to look up from a distance. Another set of models sat back-to-back at reading desks, close enough in proximity to touch one another, but never acknowledging one another. A particularly striking motif found in one look consisting of a bodysuit, coat, and pants—was the layering of hands in various shades of black over one another, creating a haunting image. Most other looks in the collection came served in black, and featured sharp, structured tailoring that served to heighten the sense of distance between the clothing and the audience.
Toile Studios displayed their collection at the Dockside Runway, serving up a layers-heavy, subversive range drenched in everything from soft, gunmetal greys to muted pinks. Every look was segmented and body-hugging, and the collection as a whole was reminiscent of post-apocalyptic Y2K uniforms. Looks were paired with silver glasses, and models walked fast and hard in ASICS modular footwear and silver glasses—further cementing the brand’s ideal of a functional future.
MNDATORY lives at the intersection of streetwear graphics and modern tailoring. Showcasing at the Queen Victoria Market Dairy Hall Runway, among other contemporary sartorial brands, MNDATORY stood out for its use of traditional streetwear motifs such as religious iconography and tribal patterns, and the vibrant colour palette used throughout the collection. In a fashion landscape where modern suiting finds itself at ‘play’ more than at formal events and cocktail bars, MNDATORY seeks to be the brand you walk into any and every room in.
Chris Ran Lin showcased an eye-catching, intricate collection. It was knitwear, but not how one might typically think of knitwear. The knits featured wider than usual gauges and experimental colouring, and were draped over the body in uncharacteristically delicate ways. Across various looks, the knitwear pieces were styled both as a stark contrast against outerwear pieces such as puffer jackers, and as a siblings that blended seamlessly with cardigans and shawls. All looks were tied together with modular puffer headwear that added a sense of boldness to the collection.
