Rick Owens Courts his Core Audience (and Controversy) for Spring 2016

Rick Owens focuses on the M-65 for Spring 2016.

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Complex Original

Image via Complex Original

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This morning, Rick Owens unveiled his latest collection—titled "Cyclops"—at Paris Fashion Week. Giving a reason behind the collection title, Owens told NowFashion:

"When designing for women, I am in awe at the mystery. With men, I automatically become self-loathing, think about what a d*ck I am," he cheerfully added. "It's about a man wanting to be heroic and the struggle of getting there, falling short and forgiving himself. And picking himself up."

For a more literal implementation of the "single vision" concept, Owens wrapped select model's heads in oversized wrappings constructed out of hair. But in terms of dealing with his own Odyssey-esque struggles, that will likely come later—Owens will undoubtedly have to deal with fallout over a model protest on his runway. (Don't worry, Rick made sure to punch his muse in the face immediately after the political stunt).



Even with politics in the fore for only a few seconds, it's almost ironic that Owens himself based much of his collection on restructuring the M-65 jacket. It's a piece of outerwear that embodies military toughness that, when deconstructed, simultaneously embodies the peace-loving protesters of the Vietnam War.

But Rick wasn't going to just send out black M-65s and call it a day. He demolished them to the core, only to rebuild them in his image: using aged leathers, dried out fabrics, and (of course), plenty of drapery. 





The remainder of the collection was more of what fans of Owens have come to enjoy: complex layering, sheer-but-strong silhouettes, and experimental shapes-within-shapes. Perhaps the most jarring addition was the inclusion of mint green and pale orange on his runway—but for Owens, this is another example of the designer moving within and without his comfort zone.



If you're already a fan of what Rick does, you'll certainly be satisfied with what he's sent down the runway for this season—controversy be damned.

See the full collection over at Style.com.

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