10 Ways to Upgrade Your Fixie

Short of replacing the frame—or the entire bike—the wheelset is the most expensive upgrade you can make, but it also can be the most worthwhile. At the very least, you want some sort of aluminum rims and sealed bearing hubs. (To be fair, vintage Campagnolo hubs aren't sealed, and they are perhaps the most sought-after, but they're also not the most practical for an everyday rider.) The goal should be lightweight, strong and reliable. Deep-dish aero rims may be all the rage, but they require longer valve stems, are much more difficult to true once they get out of round, and are more difficult to secure with a simple u-lock. Basic box-section rims (as shown) are a much better choice. As for Aerospokes and their ilk, you'd be better off using them as a clock or something.

Being that it is the part of the bike you will be most, um, intimate with, the saddle should probably be the first change to make. That is, if the stock saddle is uncomfortable. If it isn't, don't change it just to change it. Just because someone else swears by a San Marco or a Fizik doesn't mean it's right for you. And while Brooks saddles look great, they represent a commitment that you (and your ass) might not be prepared to make. Try out some different seats before you buy one—most reputable shops have testers.

Most high-end bikes either come with basic placeholder pedals or no pedals at all. Like saddles, pedals are largely a matter of personal preference, and many manufacturers assume buyers already have a favorite that they will swap on anyway. Clipless pedals are efficient, if challenging, while caged pedals with clips and straps are the classic choice. Then there are always platforms with big straps, made for fixed-gear freestyle but perfectly appropriate for just cruising around.

There are matters of size to consider (namely width—23c is the racing standard, 28c is touring, 25c is a nice compromise), but it's mostly about not having to fix flats every day. If the stock tires don't have a Kevlar lining, replace them. It's a relatively small investment now to prevent a giant headache later.

What makes fixed gear bikes great (not having to shift) can also make them a nightmare (not being able to shift). So gearing is important. There needs to be some compromise between going fast and getting going, between being able to ride uphill and not spinning out going downhill. The standard "stock" gearing seems to be around 48/16, which tends to be a little steep. Sticking with the 16t cog in back, maybe try out a 45 or 46 up front. It doesn't sound like much of a change, but it can make a noticeable difference.

Lights are relatively inexpensive, totally nonobtrusive, and entirely essential. While they're obviously most important at night, flashing lights during the day can make your bike (and you) that much more noticable to drivers. Put them on the front and back, turn them on, and leave them on. Well, when you're riding anyway. Knog and Bookman are brands to check out, and given the price of batteries, rechargables are a decided plus.

Even a simple clip-on rear fender can make all the difference between an annoying rain shower and an utterly miserable one. Because it's not the rain itself that makes a ride bad, it's the spray from the tires. Clip-on fenders are cheap and removable, and fit on basically any bike. Full fenders are better but represent more of a commitment and might not fit on a fixed with track geometry.

First off, have brakes. Or at least a front brake. And do get a name-brand one. It's amazing how much better, say, even the lowest-end Shimano brake works compared to a generic OEM one. But any brake at all should add years to your knees' lives. And your rear tire's.

This is more of a cosmetic change than anything, but what the hell. There is possibly no more recognizable (and beautiful) bit of bike bling available than a Chris King headset. They have a guarantee but are virtually indestructible anyway and come in a wide array of anodized colors. Traditionalists can stick to Campagnolo, but regardless, a high-end headset (er, the thing that lets the fork turn in the frame) will likely both look and feel better than whatever came stock.

Well, this is the big one and should probably be the last upgrade. It's possible just to swap out the fork, but usually the frame and fork are considered as a unit. Otherwise, things can get all janky with steering angles and the like. Plus, it's nice to have a matched set. For those who already have a high-end frameset but are bored with it, perhaps a repaint would do the trick.