Hidden Philly: How to Visit Like a Local

Visitors flock to Philly every year to run the Rocky Steps at the Philadelphia Museum of Art, to check out the crack in the Liberty Bell, and to get their picture taken smooching under Robert Indiana’s famous pop art LOVE sculpture. Tourism to the City of Brotherly Love is booming (even the Pope himself is visiting in September.) In fact, New York Times ranked Philadelphia No. 3 on its list of the best places to visit in 2015. And it’s not surprising given the many new renovations and attractions, like Dilworth Park outside City Hall, and The Oval’s summer art installation, beer garden, and events.

But for all of our cinematic and historical hot spots—and yes, our cheesesteaks— there’s a whole other side to Philly that the tourism set doesn’t get to see. Don’t just pause for photo ops at our iconic spots. Instead, actually get to know the city’s expansive arts, cultural, and restaurant scene just like the people that live here. This is how to visit Philadelphia like a local.

Did you know that Philly is home to the country’s largest collection of outdoor public art? Many people don’t realize how art-centered the city is unless they live here. There are two great options for touring the city as a work of art. The Association for Public Art created a “Museums Without Walls” iPhone download so visitors can walk through Fairmount Park and the Ben Franklin Parkway and hear audio on up to 65 sculptures scattered throughout the city. The map is divided by neighborhood to make for easy walking (or biking).

Another favorite local option is to take a tour with the Mural Arts Program and learn about the vibrant art on the city streets outside of the Parkway museums. The Mural Arts Program started in 1986 to discourage graffiti, and now, every year, they hire hundreds of local artists, many of whom are former graffiti violators. A unique way to check them out is to take The Love Letter train tour. The tour leaves from Broad St. and street artist Stephen Powers’ 50 love-letter rooftop murals from 45th to 63rd Streets along the Market Street corridor. Alternatively, do a Mural Mile walking tour from Center City and explore Old City and Chinatown on foot, learning about the stories-high works of art that local pedestrians gaze at every day on their way to work.

Don’t just hit Center City and South Philly—to visit like a true local, you need to go to Fishtown and Northern Liberties. Former industrial and blue-collar neighborhoods, the two have recently resurged as the up-and-coming haven of hipsters, artists, and foodies alike. Stop at local coffee roasters La Colombe or ReAnimator to start your morning off with a kick. There’s also restaurateur Stephen Starr’s German beer garden and restaurant Frankford Hall, which is good for a night out and is also family friendly during the day with games like Jenga and ping-pong. Bottle Bar East boasts a build-your-own pack of craft beer fridge, gastro pub fare, and “movie Mondays,” where films are shown on the wall. Still hungry? Head over to Standard Tap in Northern Liberties for their hearty and seasonal, local menu, which can’t be beat for dinner.

While you’re in Fishtown, you have no choice but to grab a slice at Pizza Brain, the “world’s first pizza museum” and world’s largest collection of pizza memorabilia, according to the Guinness World Records book. After you’ve dined, head next door to everyone’s favorite Fishtown sweet spot: Little Baby’s Ice Cream. Little Baby’s carries one-of-a-kind flavors like Earl Grey Sriracha, Sweet Potato Burnt Marshmallow, and Vanilla Cardamom Cream (a personal favorite). Pro tip: You can also always find Little Baby’s served at Union Transfer, one of the city’s newer music venues.

When you walk into Philadelphia’s Magic Gardens, you’ll feel like you’re in another world. Right off the bustle of tourist hot spot South Street is artist Isaiah Zagar’s mosaic art maze created from objects ranging from China plates to broken glass to bike wheels. Zagar has been a South Street resident since the late 1960s, and you can find beautiful mosaic-ed lettering dedicated to Philadelphia, and to his wife, throughout the space. Many Philly local engagement and bridal shoots take place in the Magic Gardens—which, despite the name, does not have any actual flowers, so it makes for a pretty unconventional, and very Philly, photo reel.

If you wander further, you’ll find Zagar’s mosaics everywhere, and can follow a mural map to locate them (just don’t try to find them all or you’ll never get out of Philly). I told you: We love our outdoor art. Once you’re hungry from your explorations, skip the crowds at rivals Pat’s and Geno’s and, instead, try one of Jim’s Cheesesteaks, because we both know that it doesn’t matter if you’re a local or just visiting—you’re not leaving the city without a steak. Then hop over to Capogiro for local gelato that will blow your mind.

Forget the cheesesteaks for a minute. For our intrepid Philly travelers, dining aboard the Moshulu (named after a Native American phrase meaning “one who fears nothing”) tall ship on the Riverfront is a unique experience. Locals flock to the Moshulu for dinner and brunch (and even yoga on board) and we prize our unique piece of history and restaurant venue. Built in 1904 in Scotland, the ship is the oldest and largest square-rigged sailing vessel still afloat, and it’s fun to hang out on.

But don’t stop there. There are plenty of other interesting local dining havens across the city. For even more adventurous locations to stop for a cocktail, try speakeasy-themed cocktail bars like Franklin Mortgage & Investment Company and Hop Sing Laundromat. Looking for a more classic meal? For an unmistakably British gastro pub and the best fish and chips outside of London, make a stop at a local favorite, The Dandelion. For a Parisian experience that locals can’t stop talking about, visit Parc in Rittenhouse Square.

On the weekends, Philadelphia residents love to get out of the city to one of the many gorgeous spots within an hour’s drive of Center City. If you’re a history buff, take it a step further than the Constitution Center and cruise out to visit Valley Forge, a 3,500-acre National Historic Park famous for its role in the American Revolution and its greenery. For another quick, surprising day trip, you can also visit the rustic Chaddsford Winery, or the charming, quirky streets of New Hope, Pa.

To indulge in both beauty and nature, take the short trip to the gorgeous Longwood Gardens in Kennett Square and you’ll feel like you somehow landed from a flight to Europe. Fun fact: Philadelphia actually has more than 30 gardens all within 30 miles of the city, and was recently named “America’s Garden Capital.” You can visit them all if you have the time, but Longwood Gardens is the largest, the most impressive, and definitely worth the drive. It’s actually one of the premier botanical gardens in the U.S. and boasts incredible architecture as well as blooms from orchids to blue poppies and greenhouses galore.

Instead of the famous (and highly visible) Philadelphia Museum of Art, get off the beaten track and check out some of our lesser known oddities and traditions. The biggest day for Philadelphians is New Year’s Day, when our Mummers come out and play in old-time string bands, dance, and show off their extravagant, glittery, colorful costumes. If you’re not here on New Years, you need to visit the Mummers Museum to learn about this centuries-old Philadelphia tradition. The museum even has Tuesday night string-band concerts, and kids can play a glockenspiel (and figure out what a glockenspiel is).

For fun that verges on the creepy, visit the Mütter Museum at the University of Pennsylvania, which houses medical oddities from the 1800s and the famed Hyrtl skulls. You can cap off your journey into the strange with a literary tour of Edgar Allen Poe’s Philadelphia house, which is a National Historic site. This one might be a little more mainstream, but if you haven’t already visited, the Eastern State Penitentiary tour is an architectural marvel and a journey back in time to the terrifying solitary confinement system that locked up Al Capone. The historic Penitentiary’s haunted house on Halloween is one of the top-rated in the country, and even locals line up to get in every year.

The Di Bruno Brothers store on Chestnut Street is one of the best foodie locations in the area, with fine charcuterie, olive oil and gourmet local cheeses, and free samples around every corner. The spot was founded by three brothers from Italy, and its original location (though not the largest) is in South Philly in the Italian Market. For an eclectic home shopping visit, try Jinxed (with locations throughout the city) for vintage furniture and knick-knacks, which they also post for sale on their Instagram account daily. Book lovers need to pay a visit to the cozy Head House Books between the Society Hill and Queen Village neighborhoods. If you’re looking for something truly original, check out the hidden Halloween jewelry store on 13th and Pine. You have to get buzzed into this row home shop, and then can explore two levels of floor-to-ceiling vintage and custom jewelry curated by owner Henri David.

Philadelphia has always been a home to music and the arts, and was famous in its heyday for jazz and soul. Jazz is still a big deal here, and some of the best in the city can be heard at Chris’ Jazz Café, which hosts live music every night but Sunday. If you’re lucky enough to be in the area at the right time, check out the West Oak Lane Jazz Festival. If jazz isn’t your thing, local music venues throughout the city feature artists ranging from folk to punk to alternative, and everything in between.

Catch local acts at places like Underground Arts in Fairmount, Johnny Brenda’s in Northern Liberties, and the recently revived Boot & Saddle in South Philly. Union Transfer is another popular venue, which opened in 2011 and sees national touring acts as well as local performers. World Café Live, near Drexel University, offers free-at-noon concerts on Fridays, and you can often catch a big act for free with only a small crowd. If you’re a musician yourself, Di Pinto Guitars, a family music company in Fishtown, sells original guitar creations and unique vintage pieces that you won’t find anywhere else.