In 1920 a directive was issued to hunter troops in the Swedish Army asking them to simplify their uniforms so that the soldier, “thereby unnoticed would be able to approach the enemy”. Regarding disruptive- patterned material, a shelter-half printed with large turquoise, blue, and brown waves was introduced in the 1950s. In the 1960s and 1970s the Swedish company Barracuda produced various patterns that were trialled, including a curious spotted design in woodland and desert colorways. The four-color ‘M90 splinter’ pattern was issued in 1990 for general use.

In 2001, maharishi launched the mhi label as an outlet through which to express certain themes that particularly appeal to the streetwear market. The label’s name is an abridgement of ‘maharishi’ and since its inception mhi has produced a variety of camouflage designs, and adopted the ‘mhi Sikh’ camouflage, based on the Indian military ‘palm frond’ design, as its house pattern.

Designed in India by Hardy Blechman with Showgato Chakraborty, ‘mhi Sikh’ was first used for the Autumn/Winter 2001/02 collection and incorporates the mhi logo, the om symbol (representing peace), and a kicking man in silhouette (an icon used in early Maharishi collections designed by French graffiti artist, Brendan ‘Kaywan’ Backman). Subsequent collections have included many colour variants of the ‘mhi Sikh’ pattern, as well as a variety of new camouflage designs, such as ‘Striped DPM’, a striped pattern made up of miniature nunchaku, and the ‘Nuncheck’ camo, an evolution of ‘Striped DPM’ that was overlaid with a version of the trial pattern produced by the Barracuda company in the 1970s for the Swedish military.