You will never sense any trouble in Tiraspol. You’ll just disappear. The capital of the outlaw enclave of Transdniester—which operates as its own government within Moldova proper, following a civil war—is the epicenter of the global trade in illegal weapons. I secretly visited a weapons depot here, and the cops arrested me. Not so secret, as it turned out. I refused to sign their confession, and I got away. Locals have to be on guard at all times, too. A Tiraspol girlfriend of mine once told me about the three men who tried to stuff her into the trunk of their car. She pulled a pistol out of her purse, shot them all in the face. She said she never saw them again.