Jean-Georges Vongerichten and chef de cuisine Ian Coogan's Mexican tapas joint seems a confusing concept at first. You're not quite sure what to expect from it. That is, until you taste this phenemonal fish taco. Griddled a la plancha (a very hot flattop grill, for you gringos), this flounder is tender, buttery, and generously peppered before being placed on a textured, freshly made tortilla. On top, an inventive mix of thinly sliced apple, Napa cabbage, habanero, red chili, and mint. Yes, mint. Somehow, it really, really works. Incorporating elements of salty and sweet, with a nearly unidentifiable hint of mint has a great effect: suddenly, you're scoffing no more. In fact, you're sold.