And then there is Mikuni’s.

Mikuni’s is a little sushi restaurant that was opened off of Hazel Avenue in 1987 by a Japanese reverend and his wife. My mother tells me how she used to come there when she was pregnant with me, and how we all ate there when I was a baby and the restaurant was less than half the size it is today.

That is impossible. I was born in 1985.

But that’s not the point. The point is that everyone feels nostalgic about Mikuni’s. The son, Taro, became a local celebrity as the restaurant expanded with its reputation. Taro is known for driving around in exotic sports cars and looking my age (also impossible), and now I guess he’s written a book, or his father has, or someone, somewhere in his family, documented his experience with the American dream. They came over here, did the fish on rice thing, then spruced it up with American things, like mayonnaise and ketchup, except for it’s nothing at all like mayonnaise and ketchup. I just need an example of something that we can all relate to. I guess what I’m trying to say is sauce—they spruced the fish and rice up with sauce. The best fish and rice sauce in the whole wide world.

I’m not sure if we can call sushi ethnic food anymore either though, especially in California.