Image via Complex Original
Over the past year or so, we've noticed a sea change in the world of high-fashion that's been seeping into the streetwear world. The look is a mix of streetwear and high-end fashion and is defined by a dark, gothic-inspired aesthetic. Think Rick Owens sneakers with En Noir pants and blacked-out Air Force 1s. We've dubbed the fledgling style movement "street goth" as we've seen it grow into a mainstream style sported by many of today's most prominent rappers.
We even went as far as naming it one of the best trends of 2012 a few months ago. Downtown and Harlem kids have been rocking this style for a couple years now, but it's reaching a critical mass as it becomes more popular on the Internet and beyond. Maybe A$AP Rocky was onto something. We delve deeper into the subject as we ask: What is Street Goth?
It started in the streets.
Street goth is a look downtown and Harlem kids started rocking a couple of years ago. Not all trends originate from the runways. Recently we saw it go mainstream when we spotted celebrities like Kanye West in leather sweatpants and tank tops, and A$AP Rocky's rise to prominence wearing Black Scale and SSUR hats with brands like Alexander Wang and Rick Owens.
It's hard to say exactly what spurred the trend, but most likely it was a reaction to the bright, colorful and baggy streetwear moment that was coming to an end around 2009. Trends die hard, and cool guys' appetite for the next thing must be quickly satiated. It helped that designers like Alexander Wang, who uses this aesthetic, started to gain notoriety.
It's a darker interpretation of the high/low fashion mix.
Despite the fact that the girls have been doing it for years, dudes have recently discovered you can wear designer goods with the occasional streetwear piece or Walmart come-up. The "street goth" aesthetic is merely a darker interpretation of this style philosophy. No need to step into Hot Topic—it's not nearly as extreme as what's traditionally considered goth, meaning there's no nail polish or makeup involved. The look is characterized by a mix of streetwear with high-end fashion with an overall black aesthetic. Far from Jay-Z's "all-black everything," the look is raw and deconstructed. There is lots of layering and playing with texture. Think minimalistic and asymmetrical cuts.
Don't get it twisted, it's not the same as "Goth Ninja."
While the "goth ninja" look is similarly defined by a monochromatic color palette and a minimalist aesthetic. But Goth Ninja strictly sticks to cult designer labels, and popped off in 2009 at runway shows like Undercover, Rick Owens, and Number (N)ine. Other brands and designers who've also adopted the look include Kris Van Assche, Comme des Garcons, and Yohji Yamamoto.
It's easy to think of the two as the same thing, but they're not. The term "goth ninja" primarily refers to clothing dorks who live online in message boards like Stylezeitgeist, and wear head-to-toe designer gear. You'd never catch a goth ninja in a snapback or brands like En Noir and Fear of God.
Several high fashion brands push the aesthetic on the runway.
Rick Owens was an early adopter of goth-inspired style. His collections are characterized by asymmetric shapes, bias cuts, and monochromatic color palettes. At times, the silhouettes are exaggerated, but it works because the avant garde designer makes them in breathable fabrics with a little give. Although some critics find his designs repetitive, that lingering vision established an aesthetic that's attributed to him.
Riccardo Tisci of Givenchy is also known for his fascination with gothic touches in his collections. His menswear looks often mix goth and religious references, and he has a solid awareness of the streetwear world.
Alexandre Plokhov, former co-designer of defunct brand Cloak, pushed this exaggerated aesthetic in his namesake label. In fact, he called his Fall 2012 collection "a stylistic fan letter" to Glenn Danzig and Andrew Eldritch, the leading men of iconic gothic rock bands.
Other notable designers in this fashion genre include Belgian designer Ann Demeulemeester, Croatian designer Damir Doma, and Alexander Wang, who infuses a sportier vibe into it with items like all-black varsity jackets and suede baseball jerseys.
It's redefining the world of high-end streetwear.
There are a few brands who re-imagine streetwear staples like T-shirts, sweats, and varsity jackets under a dark, goth-inspired aesthetic. The foundation of En Noir's garments, for instance, is "monochromatic minimalism" through and through. Designer Rob Garcia even says he usually thinks only in black when he designs.
Brands such as Black Scale and Fear of God Los Angeles are also pushing the boundaries of streetwear. They also use dark color palettes and a mixture of dark and religious imagery in their graphics. But the cuts and silhouettes aren't as exaggerated as many high-fashion brands. They also put out a bunch of accessories like snapbacks that can easily be mixed in any designer ensemble.
Celebrities have caught on.
In the last few months, we've seen more and more celebrities adopt the trend. A$AP Rocky and Tyson Chandler have been putting their own spin and personal touch to the look for quite a while now. Kanye West adds elements of street goth daily to his outfits, such as this Fear of God long tee and the Givenchy kilt he got a lot of flak for. More recently, we've spotted Big Sean and Kendrick Lamar (at Power 106's Cali Christmas concert) hop on the style bandwagon.
It's not about the labels you're wearing.
There is no one shop to get a head-to-toe look. The main point is mixing in affordable pieces from brands like Black Scale and SSUR with more luxurious items. Boutiques like LN-CC and Atelier carry brands like Ann Demeulemeester, Damir Doma, and Rick Owens, but you'll likely go broke trying to cop multiple pairs of drop-crotch pants.
Know when to break the bank and when to save. Leather outerwear and sneakers are always good to drop dough on, because they get a lot of wear. Remember that street goth is a mix of streetwear and high fashion—you don't have to be decked out in Rick Owens from head to toe. Nor do you have to buy the same expensive shit as every other kid on the Internet.
