Pitti Uomo, a biannual men’s trade show and fashion event, took place this week. The show is known for its focus on refined menswear and über dapper street style, but the organizers integrated various elements to round out the offering. This year, Wales Bonner was the guest designer, a slot that’s been previously filled by designers including Telfar, Virgil Abloh, and Y/PROJECT’s Glenn Martens. Belgian designer Ann Demeulemeester, one of the “Antwerp Six” who retired from her line in 2013, was a guest of honor and Pitti exhibited looks from her archive along with new designs from the current team.
Over at the show, which had a Pitti Island theme, organizers curated special sections dedicated to sustainability, Ukrainian fashion designers, and an unexpected activation from Juicy Couture. Traditional streetwear didn’t have a huge presence at the show, but many of the collections are infused with the sporty appeal of the category, including Chinese sportswear company Li-Ning’s collaboration with Soulland, a Scandinavian brand.
While the division of men’s and women’s guides retail buying teams and is still present at most stores, brands at Pitti presented men’s and women’s looks that felt easily interchangeable without labeling the line as unisex. And as the pandemic and at home dressing starts to become less of a concern, brands are helping consumers ease into real clothes with soft tailoring that is refined yet comfortable and well made. Here are some highlights from Pitti Uomo 102.