The Best Brands of 2020 (So Far)

Image via Complex Original

Please, don’t categorize Brain Dead as another streetwear brand conceived after a couple hits of DMT. Although Kyle Ng’s California-based line has built a name for itself with trippy and psychedelic graphics, there is a reason why established figures like Jean Touitou of A.P.C. personally reached out to Brain Dead to collaborate last year. And Brain Dead is more than a clothing brand. It’s billed itself as a creative platform for rising artists with its Brain Wave Training shows and drops products like rugs made by Japanese artist Tetsunori Tawaraya, and stained-glass nightlights created by the San Francisco artist Kerbi Urbanowski. This year, the brand released french terry pullovers and nylon anoraks. And an Evolv climbing shoe, made in collaboration with the young bouldering legend Ashima Shiraishi. It’s the same type of curation that has made successful streetwear brands like Supreme stand on its own as a cultural tastemaker. 

But this year, Brain Dead showed how different it is from larger streetwear brands like Supreme. In response to police murdering George Floyd and Breonna Taylor, Brain Dead was one of the first clothing brands to step up and create charitable products that supported the Black Lives Matter movement. It raised over $800,000 and even called upon larger brands they’ve collaborated with in the past to match their donation. Although it may not be the biggest streetwear brand in the world just yet, Brain Dead has proven they aren’t just here to sell clothes.—Lei Takanashi

Having been a pillar of Chicago’s streetwear community for a number of years, it feels like Joe Freshgoods is finally getting the recognition he deserves on a much wider scale. His biggest project this year has been his work with New Balance and Kawhi Leonard that debuted during NBA All-Star Weekend in the Windy City this past February. Highlighted by a 992 colorway inspired by the human heart, the pair resells for hundreds of dollars above its retail price and held its own during a slate of drops from some of Chicago’s biggest names like Virgil Abloh, Kanye West, and Don C. Freshgoods’ stellar output commanded attention. The release showed just how important Freshgoods is to his community and placed his ability to craft clever storytelling and memorable graphics to a wider audience. He followed this up with a Crown Royal capsule and a special release with Spotify to celebrate Black music. In response to the COVID-19 pandemic, he launched “Community Goods,” a sub-label that released limited T-shirts ranging from repurposed New Balance long sleeves to a blank featuring illustrations from his daughter, to raise money for the Chicago community.

A continued partnership with New Era has also been teased in recent weeks that will be arriving this summer. His remixed MLB fitted caps have proven to be hot commodities in the past. In a space currently doing its best to represent and support Black culture, Freshgoods is an example of someone who has always done so authentically. Freshgoods has been doing this, he has collabs with McDonald’s, the Chicago Bears, and many others to prove it. It is about time he is getting his flowers from people outside of his home city, too.—Mike DeStefano

How does a more than 100-year-old denim brand remain relevant? The easy answer is to collaborate with cool people. But that’s not enough. Brands also have to give collaborators the creative freedom to make interesting things and that’s what Levi’s has done. The San Francisco-based company kicked the year off with an NBA All Star Weekend activation in Chicago, its third annual Ball-B-Q event hosted by Don C. He worked with Levi’s on a limited NBA licensed collection of oversized warm-ups and tracksuits made from a premium washed denim and inspired by the ‘90s. The line felt nostalgic but new. Then through its Authorized Vintage program, Levi’s released a collection with Tremaine Emory of Denim Tears. It included a trucker jacket and jeans covered with a cotton wreath print Emory discovered on artist Kara Walker’s Instagram page. The wreath is meant to symbolize cotton, the Black slave experience and its place in American history. It’s a powerful message for a corporation to get behind and the cosign from Kanye West, who frequently wore pieces from the collection, also helped. Levi’s closed out the first half of the year by partnering with Tyler, The Creator’s Golf Wang line on a collection of Levi’s 501 ‘93 jeans and the Vintage Fit Trucker Jacket covered in multicolored polka dots. Levi’s works with each of its collaborators in a distinct and authentic way. 

We also appreciate the brand taking a stand and pausing its Facebook ad buys for the #StopHateForProfit campaign, which is a call for Facebook to censor racist content and misinformation, and being transparent about its lack of diversity on the corporate side. Now more than ever we want to align with brands that make good product and support important causes. Levi’s is doing both.—Aria Hughes

Streetwear and fashion at large have undergone a rapid evolution in the past decade. Items from designer brands are more available than ever thanks to the internet and massive production. The formula: develop a product that people want, limit its production so the hype cycle builds, and then do it again. And again. And again. Collaborations have become currency and right now, Kim Jones and Dior are cashing in. 

The storied Parisian house has turned out a seemingly never-ending list of hits: collaborations with Shawn Stussy, Daniel Arsham, Rimowa, and, for perhaps the most talked about sneaker collaboration in recent memory, Jordan Brand. All of which have provided the perfect venn diagram of hype and hard-to-get. Put that on top of the genuinely slick collections that Jones and his team are putting together—a mix of sharp tailoring and technical details—and you’re left with a brand that’s uniting opposite ends of the style spectrum better than the competition.

This combination of reliable seasonal greatness, matched with streetwear-inspired drops that keep people interested in between fashion weeks is a recipe that brands like Dior have realized can work for them. So while the fashion life cycle may have changed, Dior and Kim Jones aren’t just keeping up with it, they’re leading the way.—Skylar Bergl

It seems like Martine Rose has spent much of 2020 using her archive as a primary source of inspiration. And when your archive is as good her’s, why not? Over the past 13 years, the London-based designer has cultivated a specific brand identity with off-kilter menswear influenced by outsiders, whether that’s a dated dad or a club kid. She presented the old and new at her Fall/Winter 2020 show in London earlier this year, which took place at her 4-year-old daughter’s primary school. She showed her signatures including jacquard denim, fleece tops, tweaked tailoring, and eye-catching prints along with some newer ideas such as latex pants and blazers, leather vests with cargo pockets, and trousers she produced with Farah—a brand  known for its pants with perma-creases worn by Jamaican men in the ‘70 and ‘80s including Rose’s uncle. We have to applaud Rose for always being herself while playing with new concepts.

For the most recent London Fashion Week, which was virtual, she worked with LN-CC, a London retailer, to produce a line of patchwork track suits and shirts made from deadstock fabric found in her studio. It was released with a short film narrated by spoken-word poet and activist Kai-Isaiah Jamal. Rose naturally embodies the themes and causes many brands are just now considering.

And we can’t not mention the Napa by Martine Rose line produced by Italian casualwear brand Napapijri that’s dropping some of the best outerwear and fleeces in the market—just ask Kanye West, who wore a pullover anorak from the line earlier this year. But Rose’s work doesn’t need her designs to be validated by Kanye. They speak for themselves. In fact, we wouldn't be surprised if her pieces are on his mood board and many others.—Aria Hughes

Every collection from Aimé Leon Dore is exactly what you expect, but I mean that in the best possible way. There’s a selection of dependable basics that lay the foundation. There’s a few pieces that fly below the radar: a cardigan that looks like your granddad’s or a button-up shirt that looks like it went through a few laundry cycles. Then there are the showstoppers, pieces meant to stand out: a graphic sweater here, and loud, patterned trousers there. Put them all together and you have a collection that leaves you wondering where your money went. It’s a formula that works with continued success. 

Then there’s a little bit of the unexpected. 

The New Balance collections are worth the attention—and effort to grab a piece or two. And the Porsche partnership, which included a slick video and pop-up featuring the carefully crafted car, may have rewritten what it means for a collaboration to be truly “on-brand.” Every release from ALD feels like a Porsche 964 swinging through a perfectly measured turn. They’re carefully thought-out, detail-oriented, and made with the shopper in mind. With thousands of other brands vying for your attention and money, it’s nice to feel like ALD has you in mind.—Skylar Bergl

For Nike, it’s always gotta be the shoes. But to not look further than the Swoosh’s footwear would be a mistake, especially in the first half of 2020. The brand’s ACG collection continues to turn out solid gear while staying under the radar and its footwear collaborations typically include merch that’s worth the extra look—like the Stüssy collection of cozy basics. Of course, it’s even turned Air Max Day into yet another reason to log into the SNKRS app for an inevitable L on anything new. Yet, Nike always finds ways to keep the old stuff fresh, too. The momentum of Nike SB is undeniable, drawing attention for almost every release at this point—Travis Scott’s collaboration and Ben & Jerry’s “Chunky Dunky” as prime examples. 

The brand also keeps the old stuff fresh by reusing it in sneakers, a la the Space Hippie collection. This mix of innovation with a side of nostalgia has been Nike’s recipe for decades—and it’s still working. The surprise and delight that comes with discovering an awesome pair of sneakers AND solid set of technical gear from ACG or Nike Sportswear’s retro casual fare is how the brand continues to win in 2020 and will for the foreseeable future.—Skylar Bergl

The night before Telfar Clemens presented for the first time at Pitti Uomo in Florence, Italy this year, the 35-year-old Liberian American designer invited friends and family for an all-night “congress” at the Palazzo Corsini palace. What ensued was a party that included a jam session with Solange and the experimental jazz group Standing on The Corner—along with an extravagant dinner by the queer cooking group Spiral Theory Test Kitchen. Leftover food scraps and drinks were left on the circular table that was used as the actual runway the next day. The party only continued with artists like boychild and Wu Tsang walking in a show that included flared biker denim pants, quilted motorcycle jackets, and cowboy boots boasting a large “TC” logo. These pieces flipped classic Americana on its head. And only in Telfar’s America could we find these different walks of life in one room. 

Although Clemens’ brand has been around for 15 years, he’s only recently tasted  the true fruits of his labor. Since winning the 2017 CFDA Vogue Fashion Fund, Clemens’ eponymous label has gone from making $102,000 in revenue in 2016 to over $2 million last year. By now, everyone is well aware of the Telfar Shopping Bag—a leather tote bag which has been dubbed the “Bushwick Birkin” and popularized by queer, young, creative New Yorkers of color. However, the brand isn’t defined by a leather bag cosigned by everyone from ASAP Ferg to BbyMutha. To best understand Clemens’ success, just look to the brand’s slogan, “Not for you, for everyone.” Telfar has built a cult following with genderless clothing at accessible price points, which is why a Telfar x Gap collaboration would have been incredible if it wasn’t prematurely cancelled this month. Despite Gap’s missed opportunity, the inclusive ethos that Telfar brings to fashion is what younger people are valuing more than ever before. Clemens is bound to have even greater opportunities to showcase his vision going forward.—Lei Takanashi

Virgil Abloh kicked off his second year at Louis Vuitton with a collection centered on the working man. Inspired by commuters in business centers across the world, Abloh produced slim business suits cracked with slits and rain jackets that resembled pieces from Arc’Teryx, an outdoor brand for the Fall/Winter 2020 collection. Although a suede shearling collared coat covered in LV’s signature monogram is difficult to envision on the everyman, Abloh once again tweaked everyday garments to make them desirable and luxurious. For instance, a blue collared shirt is embellished with crystal droplets to resemble a businessman caught in a light snow shower. A pair of dress shoes with rubber Nike Air Trainer-esque straps, straddle the line between formal and casual workplace attire. Although he presented this collection before the pandemic shuttered the world economy, the designs have aged well—considering that having an office job right now feels like a luxury in itself. 

Now four seasons in, Abloh also introduced his first collaboration at Louis Vuitton by teaming up with NIGO® for the LV² collection. Inspired by both ‘60s British mod culture and 2000s streetwear, the collaboration highlights Abloh’s ability to showcase the house's tailoring capabilities while maintaining a subcultural flair. The capsule includes Derby shoes, woolen suits, and denim jackets along with leather goods that mix the brand’s iconic Damier Check and Monogram patterns. According to an interview with i-D Magazine, the drippy motifs seen throughout the collection are a direct reference to Pharrell’s Ice Cream brand. Despite what you may have heard, streetwear isn’t dead at Louis Vuitton, it’s evolving.—Lei Takanashi

Charaf Tajer’s Casablanca has only been around since 2018, but has continued to gain attention and new fans with its elegant approach to menswear. Items range from athleisure staples like premium tracksuits to silk shirts that display colorful, hand-painted artwork. Casablanca also celebrated its first official footwear collaboration, a two-shoe pack with New Balance to help the brand introduce its 327 silhouette this past April. The lux pairs were inspired by tennis and classic Italian style—they’ve contributed to New Balance’s strong footwear output this year. For its last presentation in January at Paris Fashion Week, Tajer tapped into other luxury lifestyle elements like ski gear or printed luggage, which shows how the brand can evolve. And the right people like it. Travis Scott, J Balvin, and Westside Gunn are  fans. Gunna even walked in the brand’s Fall/Winter 2019 presentation. The colorful prints and silk shirts might not be for everyone, or the easiest items to pull off, but their art-like details and quality needs to be commended. There’s a reason Tajer was an LVMH Prize finalist this year. If you haven’t been keeping up with Casablanca, start now.—Mike DeStefano

There’s a reason why Givenchy hired Matthew M. Wiliams as the brand’s newest creative director. With 1017 Alyx 9SM, he’s gained steam over the years with his technical sportswear and stand out accessories. He’s built it into a label that bigger labels look to for inspiration, while maintaining its own aesthetic throughout its evolution. Collaborations have been consistent—multiple throughout the years with Mackintosh and in early 2020 with Moncler as part of its ongoing collections from notable designers. 

In the ever-shifting fashion marketplace, consistency can be crucial. And 1017 Alyx 9SM has become the label bigger brands tap to deliver something uniquely great. It’s often aggressive, with technical details like its signature rollercoaster buckle. It’s still rooted in the streetwear mindset, but also right at home in more refined situations, thanks to tailored details and a muted color palette. 

Yet the most headline-worthy pieces are the ones that are out of left field: oversized boots, Vibram sandals, Audemar Piguet-inspired steel jewelry, and more. The cross-section of products the label creates is something few competitors can offer. That’s why when you just look at a 1017 Alyx 9SM collection, you feel like you’re in on something others might not be aware of. And that’s a feeling only the best brands can provide.—Skylar Bergl

Supreme remains at the top of the class in 2020. Breaking down why that’s the case isn’t always easy, but year in and year out, the brand remains relevant—sitting squarely at the center of the conversation.  

There’s the collaborations, some off-beat and others seasonal regulars. The North Face brought the usual seasonal outerwear. And Timberland did the same with footwear. Teaming up with Daniel Johnston, the brand donated proceeds to mental health causes. A Nike partnership put the box logo on one of the most iconic sneakers of all-time, the Air Force One. Lamborghini cashed in a capsule with a line of automobile-inspired sportswear. Then Barbour dropped the jacket that stormed every Instagram mood board, a leopard print field jacket. They even collaborated with Oreo—a box logo cookie! 

Supreme is nothing if not incredibly prolific. But to realize that all of this happened in the first half of the year puts a new spin on the way the box logo business moves the market. Is the resale market thriving like it was a few years ago? You’d have to ask the people waiting desperately for a piece of the drop each Thursday. But you can’t deny that Supreme still is, and always will be, at the center of the streetwear universe.—Skylar Bergl

It’s not often that a “streetwear” brand gets to collaborate with a legendary Italian tailoring label. But that’s exactly what Jerry Lorenzo and team did when they hooked up with Ermenegildo Zegna earlier this year. 

The resulting collection was a masterclass in merging two different worlds to create a cohesive vision. Fear of God might be known for its “Essentials” as the brand calls them, but its oversized silhouettes and minimalist detailing are anything but basic—making the partnership with Zegna a perfect match that no one was expecting. Perhaps that’s owed to Lorenzo’s ability to make dropped shoulders and beefy outerwear feel more elegant than purely flashy. That goes to show just how far the brand has come since it started in 2013. 

On top of this iconic brand collaboration, Fear of God added another in working with Converse on a Chuck Taylor that put simplicity at the forefront. These are just two highlights that prove Fear of God can no longer be viewed strictly through the lens of streetwear. Instead, it’s a shining example of how the best brands can grow with the world around them.—Skylar Bergl

While this OG brand has been around since the ‘80s, it’s gone through its peaks and valleys. But in 2020, Stussy caught its stride once again. Its seasonal offerings have remained consistent, showcasing signature logos and prints on T-shirts and hoodies alongside cut and sew items like linen work pants or denim ranch jackets. They have also dropped off some nice collabs this year, most notably helping Nike bring back 2003’s Zoom Spiridon Cage 2 in a trio of colorways that are among the best sneaker collabs we’ve seen in 2020. 

This past May, the brand tapped Matthew M. Williams, Givenchy’s newly-appointed creative director who grew up in California admiring Stussy, to create workwear crafted with Loro Piana denim and recycled cotton graphic T-shirts that merge each designer’s ethos. To celebrate its 40th anniversary, Stussy also dropped a super limited varsity jacket with Comme des Garçons covered in retro graphics. Projects like these show just how important and influential Stussy has been for all these years, which isn’t by accident. It’s one of the very few brands equally respected by young and old demographics. While other brands from the era have gone by the wayside or faded out of vogue, it is impressive to see Stussy’s staying power for four decades.—Mike DeStefano

Pyer Moss has set the prime example of what it means to be a brand in the current fashion ecosystem. And the clothes are only one piece of the story. 

Founder Kerby Jean-Raymond has never been afraid to call out the injustices facing the Black community. And he’s been doing it for years, starting with a big statement at his runway show all the way back in 2015—long before other brands were willing to speak out on social issues. That bravery and willingness to speak when others are silent has only guided the journey of the brand into 2020, where it’s now a consistent presence with a powerful message behind it, and the designs to back it up. 

He’s also an innovative storyteller and has already proposed a drive-in activation for this September amid Covid-19 that will premiere his documentary “American, Also,” which follows him and his team as they prepped for their Spring/Summer 2020 show in Flatbush at Brooklyn’s Kings Theater. 

To talk about Pyer Moss without touching on the entire picture beyond the clothes would be to ignore the shifting landscape of the industry, where independent brands are making more impact on the next generation of consumers than legacy houses with decades of history. Other brands on this list make headlines for noteworthy collections and hyped collaborations that sell out in an instant—Pyer Moss has those too, don’t forget—but Jean-Raymond and his team have built the label into something bigger. And that’s something to be celebrated.—Skylar Bergl

Rhuigi Villaseñor has come a long way since designing that black and white paisley T-shirt back in 2012. As Rhude ages, the designer continues to hone his craft and refine his offerings from collection-to-collection, and his work thus far in 2020 is some of his strongest to date. He kicked off the year with his official debut as Paris Fashion Week, a milestone for any designer, with the “Spirit of Ecstasy” show he says was largely inspired by his family and a celebration of his late grandfather. Items like leather blazers and belted coats were a nod to him. The Paris presentation also marked the designer’s first step into the womenswear space and it was good, another accomplishment for Rhude.

Villaseñor has been busy collaborating as well, adding new chapters to his partnership with Puma, Thierry Lasry, and Vans. He also worked alongside Pusha T and Courvoissier during NBA All-Star Weekend. He was able to extend his design aesthetic to an entirely new audience earlier this year by dropping an affordable capsule with PacSun—similar to what Jerry Lorenzo’s done with his Essentials diffusion line. While it was not officially tied to Rhude, it provided similar graphic T-shirts that fall in line with the vintage-inspired, wild animal prints that have become the brand’s signature. Villaseñor’s designs have also become a staple for influential people. LeBron James and Ben Simmons wear it down the NBA tunne. JAY-Z’s courtside fits for a better part of the season include Rhude pieces. And even Lil Uzi Vert shouted the brand out on Eternal Atake. Villaseñor has said before he doesn’t want to alienate his day one customers as he evolves. For the time being, he seems to have found the perfect pocket to do just that. Rhude represents what modern luxury is today and what it will be for years to come.—Mike DeStefano

Evolution doesn’t happen overnight. But the growth of Kith from a sneaker-centric, New York-only outpost with extensive collaborations to a complete, head-to-toe and nearly global brand has been nothing short of impressive—it just announced a new Tokyo flagship. The limited-run Kith-branded Air Force 1s and exclusive New Balance collaborations might get someone in the door, but the ever-expanding collections keeps them there. Cosigns from LeBron James go a long way, but the product—in that case a Golden Bear jacket collaboration—goes further. 

In many ways, Kith is something of a barometer for New York style. In recent collections, shades of retro ‘90s sportswear are clear, and they’re right on time as nostalgia for that era hits a fever pitch. Nylon windbreakers, field jackets, straight-legged pants with and without cargo pockets cover some of the basics. But the in-house stylings aren’t afraid to experiment either—multi-pocketed bomber jackets, patchwork details, and noragi-like mid layers bring additional dimension. The strictly hoodies-and-jeans period that started Kith is long gone and now it’s building on the foundation with collections that aren’t formulaic andlanding with the younger set. 

In the early days of the brand, the basics may have been the top sellers, but 2020 is a different day and different era. And if things keep going the way they are, it’s an era Kith will dominate in its own way.—Skylar Bergl