Seeing a bare breast on the runway during Fashion Week isn’t unusual. In this time of Snapchat and #FreeTheNipple, designers are embracing sheer tops and wide-open shirts for reasons artistic, political, attention-seeking, or some combination of all three. But seeing model Maya Mones wearing a lace basketball jersey dress that exposed her left breast, which she fondled gleefully as she strutted to an acid-tribal beat down a runway made of AstroTurf, all while a cartoon bear in heels somersaulted across a giant video screen behind her? That is something entirely new. Thanks to Gypsy Sport, the unisex label helmed by designer Rio Uribe, it’s also something a hundred or so fashion editors and retailers witnessed firsthand during the brand’s hour-long show in New York last week.

“It’s not so much about attention as it is just showing what’s happening in the world I live in and the world that I see,” Uribe tells Complex, explaining his penchant for ignoring traditional fashion industry norms. For Uribe, that includes working with models who are trans, of color, and represent a wide spectrum of body types. “We get [criticism] all the time. If people are shocked by a guy in a dress, they probably haven’t been to New York City or haven’t seen what fashion is like here in the underground.”