“Vetements” literally translates from French to mean “clothes.” As Gvasalia told T Magazine, “it was a lot about the attiudes of wearing the clothes.” The brand's mentality is one that rejects the idea of a “label,” and asks viewers to literally focus on the clothes.

Remember how we highlighted Demna Gvasalia's time at Margiela? The Margiela comparisons don't end with aesthetics. While Gvasalia is the creative director of the label, it's effectively run by a group of seven anonymous designers, united by their aesthetic choices and rebellious perspective on the modern-day fashion cycle. Even moreso, the group were all trained at the Royal Academy of Fine Arts in Antwerp, according to Business of Fashion, all united by shared work experiences at the mysterious Maison Martin Margiela. The clothes reflect this as well, with Business of Fashion pointing out the collections' ability to be “minimal without being flat, edgy without the gimmick…sober, but not basic.”

While it's beginning its fifth season, Vetements only sees Gvasalia at the helm starting at the tail end of last year. His brother, Guram Gvasalia is involved creatively, but focuses on the business. Like Kanye West's well-documented love of Margiela, West has also been seen wearing Vetements around L.A. and Paris, snapping a legendary picture at with Lorde at Paris Fashion Week back in March.