They may not have been the first to produce Japanese selvedge denim, but Evisu is definitely the most influential brand to do so, not to mention the most popular. Designer Hidehiko Yamane was working importing clothes to Japan when he realized that there was hardly any quality denim in the Japanese market. After collecting the vintage looms required to weave selvage denim, in the early '90s Yamane began producing 14 pairs a day out of Osaka; each pair received a hand-painted seagull on the back pocket, a practice that evolved in extravagance and intensity. Evisu may have quickly come and gone, but there's no question that it sparked a worldwide interest in vintage denim and the creation of a mini-industry in Japan.

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