The world is overflowing with noodle soups. From ramen to udon to mixian to pho, every culture seems to have its own preferred method for slurping up a hot bowl of broth. But in Taiwan, devouring bowls of beef noodle soup borders on a regional obsession. At Manhattan’s Ho Foods, the dedication to the art of the BNS is so pure that the restaurant has purged all other dishes from its menu, altering only the width of its noodle to fit customers’ particular palates. Boiled down for 24 hours, and topped with red-braised beef shanks, the soup is a simple, working-class dish that’s perfectly primed to appease NYC carnivores in 2018. From the dish’s humble begins in Asia, to its proliferation in California’s San Gabriel Valley, to its new home on 7th Street in the East Village, chef-owner Richard Ho charts the fascinating history of one of the world’s most beloved bowls of soup. "We were just embedded and soaked in Asian culture," Ho says of his upbringing near Los Angeles. "This is how we grew up eating, and we wanted to share that with everyone in New York City."