"The only thing that vodka can really own is texture, because the subtleties of the aroma and the subtleties of the characteristics in the grain are only enjoyed by people who drink vodka neat all the time. So, newcomers to vodka will want to think and talk about texture. Is the vodka thick, weighty, oily, viscous? Or is it thin, light, astringent, prickly, hot?

"A great vodka will move voluptuously over the palate. It shouldn't attack the palate, or cause you pain, or be prickly. It should really be like a bourbon, where you have that lovely sort of warmth, the weight of the spirit in the mouth."