4. Forcella - Greenwich Village

Neighborhood: Greenwich Village, Manhattan
Address: 334 Bowery
Website: forcellaeatery.com

When Kesté opened in the West Village in 2009, I swiftly swore my allegiance to the place and haven't thumped my chest for a Neapolitan-style pie since. And while newcomer Forcella hasn't disrupted my relationship with the standard bearer this year, it has certainly proved itself a worthy slide-off. Like a john who pays a concubine to do the kinky things his wife won't, I strayed with Forcella for one arousing reason: Montanara, a deep-fried pie, speckled with air bubbles and topped with molten pools of mozzarella.—JR