Address277C Grand St. (At Forsyth St.)
Best Bet: Pho #9 Tai Gau ($4.95)

Pho Grand can be found off the beaten LES path, in bustling, borderline-Chinatown surroundings, on a street cramped with strange smells and sidewalks cluttered with forgotten produce. But somewhere amongst the madness is Pho Grand, whose clean, quiet, and cozy log-cabin interior contains full scale Vietnamese indulgences at prices that barely register with your billfold.

The rice and vermecelli plates (all well under $10) read like a choose your own adventure: most of the spice is self-administered by way of the fully-stocked lazy susan, with condiments as basic as sriracha, to unlabeled spices that pack an unidentifiable punch that are better left for the brave. Your best bet is basically anything with pork (and we're not just saying that because we're pork fanatics): it has a full-on sweet and savory flavor that hits the spot, every time.

And what of the pho? It comes in every option imaginable, each drowning in the PG's bangin' signature broth. But the brisket and beef, loaded with thinly sliced cuts of meat and floating atop a swell of tender noodles, are a standout. The spring rolls ($3.75) are also a score: an airy and weightless wonder that comes heavy with the flavor, especially if you soak them in the homemade fish broth it's served with. 

Pho Grand is the stuff of hangover-curing proportions, with never-ending piles of noodles that force us to rely on our (non-existant) self-control to stop, because they never end on their own. But if you're the type of guy that thinks moderation is overrated, you've found heaven in Pho, pho sho.

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