Lamb chops are the definitive Punjabi meat starter, with a rich marinade that blackens in the heat of a clay tandoor oven. But as a pescetarian, Steel Banglez no longer eats them. “You’ll enjoy these,” he says to me, pointing at the sizzling hot-plate of chops on our table. A bangle slides down his wrist. “The chef makes them better when I’m here, I’m telling you!” he adds jovially. It’s a July evening, and we are dining with two of Steel Banglez' childhood friends at Tayyabs, in Whitechapel, east London: arguably the most famous South Asian eatery in the capital.