It's simply incorrect to consider John Elliott simply a "basics" designer anymore. While the designer may have gotten his start revolutionizing the athleisure aesthetic, he's stretched his work well beyond the confines of the Villain sweatshirt and Escobar sweatpants. Yes, his first runway show (debuted for the Fall/Winter 2015 season) was star-studded, but it's his latest Spring/Summer 2016 show at New York Fashion Week: Men's that's established him as a true designer.

According to WWD, Elliott was "bordering on giddy" just prior to showtime, and with a collection as strong as this, we can't blame him. Inspired by time in Vietnam, Elliott explained

“I wanted a Vietnamese color palette that was faded, cold and pale with military references,” said Elliott. “This is the most conceptual collection I’ve put forward and I just hope it’s cohesive.”

The military inspirations are clear, with cargo pockets, modernized hooded anoraks, and redesigned bomber jackets (in everything from suede to canvas-like fabrics), keeping the aesthetic focus classically militaristic, while still thoroughly modern.

 



 

Elliott's relationship with Nike is still strong. In case you forgot, the designer had custom LeBron 12's for his models back in Fall/Winter 2015. This time around, Elliott used Nike Air Rifts; a variety of Air Maxes; and the Nike SFB boot—which is actually used by the U.S. Armed Forces (and that's just the tip of the iceberg).

 



 

Add in appearances from Victor Cruz, Nick Young and Amare Stoudemire, and Elliott's robust athlete fanbase made their presence known in the front row.

 

Image via Alexis Barnett

 

Simply put, if you weren't with with the John Elliott + Co. movement before this show, chance are, you will be now.

See the full collection over at Style.com.