Ever since his twenties, Hiroki Nakamura had an affinity for Americana clothes. The old-school utilitarian vibe and workwear influence really resonated with the Japanese creative, so much so that in 2001 he launched his very own footwear brand called Visvim—a company that quickly built momentum by expanding into a full-fledge menswear label. And although his products reflected his unwavering commitment to the quality and craftsmanship seen in vintage items, Nakamura wanted something more: a brand that not only nodded to traditional workwear but also had a place in contemporary fashion.
Today, Visvim is one of the leading menswear labels to come out of Japan, having gained a cult following among guys who appreciate top-tier garments with meticulous workmanship. And we mean meticulous.
Every fabric Visvim uses is developed exclusively for the brand by mills Nakamura personally selects. Though the use of natural dyes, vegetable-tanned leather, and handcrafted details are incredibly time-consuming, this approach is very much in line with his vision of old-meets-new. Some of his methods are so traditional that even storied Americana brands have abandoned them for more efficient practices.
“I have worked with family-owned American manufacturers too,” Nakamura told Business of Fashion. “Most of them are gone and it’s really difficult to find old manufacturers. But I also think Americans are free-thinking. They don’t look back. So that’s a part of it [...] But it’s not only in America. Factories are closing in Japan, too.”
But that aesthetic—vintage-tinged clothing with forward-thinking sensibilities—is exactly why Visvim has done so damn well. As we saw in his Spring/Summer 2015 collection, Nakamura has the rare ability to create clothes that have a nostalgic appeal while looking like nothing you’ve ever seen before. This is no more evident than in the brand’s FBT sneaker/moccasin shoe.
"The FBT represents the melding of old world craftsmanship and sneakers," said Jian DeLeon, our own deputy style editor. “Today, you have adidas making suede moccasins on an EVA (Ethylene Vinyl Acetate) sole and Cole Haan’s LunarGrand, which put wingtips on Nike’s Lunar sole. Nakamura really pioneered that space of putting two and two together and that’s why it remains relevant to a certain kind of discerning consumer."
A customer who appreciates impeccable craftsmanship, isn’t afraid to stand out, and is willing to shell out big bucks for the clothes.
"Being able to wear Visvim almost makes a statement about your status," DeLeon told BoF, "that you are not only able to afford to buy into the brand, but your career allows you to wear it so freely. It’s a different kind of wealth indicator."
To read the full profile on Visvim, including information about the brand's expansion into womenswear, head over to BoF.
[via Business of Fashion]
