What Makes a T-Shirt Worth $90? We Compare the A.P.C. Kanye T-Shirt to Its Competitors

We compare Kanye West's white A.P.C. T-shirt to three others in its league.

Aug 04, 2014
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Complex Original

Image via Complex Original

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Complex Original

Image via Complex Original

Kanye West recently dropped his latest and final collaboration with French fashion brand A.P.C., and unlike the initial Internet-breaking reaction to the first one, this release was decidedly more mellow. That isn't to say it wasn't well-received; people were still lining up outside A.P.C. stores in New York hours before they opened. But this time, A.P.C. was more prepared—allowing select retailers around the globe to carry the collection, and even ensuring there was ample stock on their own website, where select items are still available.

Like the first collection, the second iteration of A.P.C. Kanye also features a polarizing white T-shirt. Last season, West's $120 "Hip-Hop T-shirt" was lampooned by media funnymen like Stephen Colbert. At a modest $90, the austerely-named "Plain T-shirt" actually costs less than its predecessor. But what exactly are consumers paying for? There are definitely more expensive basics out there, like this $215 version from Maison Martin Margiela, to mid-range versions like this $64 tee from John Elliott + Co. 

We took the A.P.C. Kanye T-shirt and compared it to three other tees on the market, ranging from competitively-priced to a mere $6. Here's how it stacks up:

1. A.P.C. Kanye (Approximate Retail: $90)

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Fabric composition: 100% Cotton

Where it's made: Turkey

How it fits: The first iteration of this T-shirt was a bit longer on the body, sort of like a tall tee, and was made from Egyptian cotton. This season's A.P.C. Kanye white tee is made from an airy cotton jersey, and still has an oversized fit, along with dropped shoulders and a slightly wider collar. It's cut so generous that most people could probably size down and still achieve the breezy, drapey look the silhouette's supposed to convey. Fabric-wise, it is super sheer, so only the confident may wish to wear it in a well-lit room. It also has taped seams which separate it from its cheaper counterparts, but it's definitely got the fit and feel of something "precious" and not altogether "basic." 

2. T By Alexander Wang (Approximate Retail: $80)

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Fabric composition: 100% Cotton

Where it's made: Vietnam

How it fits: Something of a staple amongst fashion-conscious dudes, Alexander Wang's T By Alexander Wang basic tees almost always sell out at cool kid boutiques like Opening Ceremony. Known for a slightly oversized fit and slim collar, the material is a good balance between soft-to-touch and substantial. Like the A.P.C. Kanye tees, these aren't the kind you can just throw in the washer and forget about—you should probably wash them by hand, but hey, if you've got the kind of disposable income to drop on luxe basics, that's a pretty infinitesimal​ cross to bear. Competitively priced with the A.P.C. Kanye tee at $10 less, the appeal and cool factor is the same, while the collar on this one seems a little more sturdy and less likely to stretch out after multiple wears.

3. Alternative (Approximate Retail: $44)

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Fabric composition: 100% Organic Cotton

Where it's made: Peru

How it fits: Inspired by vintage, broken-in tees, Alternative makes these T-shirts from organic Pima cotton. The hand of the material is meant to emulate the kind of softness that a well-worn, washed-a-hundred-times tee is known for, and it does feel really cushy. Still, after trying on the previous two designer tees there's an undeniable appeal associated with wearing a decidedly luxe T-shirt. Even though the Alternative tee is made from a comparably good fabric, there's a subtle stunt factor to walking around in something from Alexander Wang or A.P.C. Kanye that makes it feel like its own secret. Perhaps that's something only fashion nerds or rich posers can really appreciate, but it is still a very real mindset.



4. Uniqlo (Approximate Retail: $6)

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Fabric composition: 77% Cotton; 23% Polyester

Where it's made: China

How it fits: Just about every other dude in New York swears by the Uniqlo packaged tee. Carrying the torch of those Hanes or Fruit of the Loom three-packs, these tees are almost like Christmas presents: You must wrest them free of their restraints before you can throw one on victoriously. The cotton-poly blend feels great and is breathable, but having had a few of these in my lifetime, I know that $6 T-shirts aren't meant to last forever. The drape and fit are noticeably different from its higher-end counterparts, and I can't help but feel "basic." Objectively, there are plenty of noticeable differences between the A.P.C. Kanye and T By Alexander Wang versions when compared to the Uniqlo tee. Both feel more luxurious to the touch, and on the body they hang nonchalantly, while the Uniqlo one provides none of that je ne sais quoi. ​I feel like there may not be any return from the higher-end realm of plain tees. I can't tell if I've just become a hypebeast for designer labels or if I'm trying to rationalize a $90 T-shirt.



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