The Complete Design History of John Varvatos

Image via Complex Original

“Ralph was the first to really create a brand out of a personal style. He nailed it and he owns it.” – John Varvatos

After beginning in retail sales and merchandising, Varvatos joined the Ralph Lauren corporate offices to begin his career. (He had two stints here, but this is where he began his long-lasting friendship with Lauren.)

At Calvin Klein, Varvatos oversaw the launch of the men’s collection and cK brand, but you might be more familiar with the infamous Calvin Klein boxer-brief he designed. Or as Vanity Fair put it, “the most replicated form of men’s underwear since cavemen fashioned loincloths.” Two years later, the brand made waves for introducing the world to a steamy ad campaign featuring Kate Moss and Mark Wahlberg.

Varvatos returned to his preppy beginnings, now as the Head of Menswear Design for all of the Polo Ralph Lauren brands. While there, he lead the launch of the Polo Jeans Company. We tracked down one of the first commercials for the brand; see if you can spot a young, up-and-coming Tyson Beckford.

Watch it here.

“When you do men’s wear, it’s less about thinking outside the box than about pushing the walls of the box outward. Men want to be evolutionary, not revolutionary.” – John Varvatos

Varvatos founded his eponymous company in 1999, and the first designs hit runways in the fall of 2000. The company began to create clothes and accessories that represented Varvatos’ rock-n-roll meets menswear vision for men’s fashion—winning him multiple awards and accolades. 

“When I was talking to Ralph about going out on my own, he told me, ‘You should only do it if you really have something new to say,’” John recalls. “So now, whenever I see him, he gives me a hug and says, ‘You’re doing it. You’re really doing it.’” – John Varvatos

In 2000, Varvatos received the Perry Ellis Award for New Menswear Designer. This marked the first of many recognizing his work because he went on to win Menswear Designer of the Year twice.

“They had never worked with a designer before, and they saw my respect for old world, heritage, pop culture, and my affinity to music. Now we’re in our eighth year working together. It’s definitely the most successful collaboration ever in the footwear industry.” – John Varvatos

In the fall of 2001, Varvatos partnered with the classic company to create a line of shoes true to the brand’s style, but with a rock-n-roll twist. The collaboration continues today, and you can expect to see Varvatos incorporating designs and textures true to his style: leather, metal, and our favorite, laceless.

In 2004, Varvatos took another groundbreaking step to extend his brand by launching a fragrance line. The first execution (aptly named John Varvatos) focused on highlighting masculine and sophisticated scents appealing to men from the soundboard to the boardroom.  

“Wine, tequila, and beer. Why not?” – John Varvatos

Rock-n-roll and libations are relatively synonymous, so it seemed natural for a designer who caters to rock stars to partner with a liquor brand that does the same. You can see his influence in the redesigned guitar bottle stopper, which is the only time in the brand’s history it has changed its bottle design.

This year, Varvatos went back to his hometown roots, collaborating with Chrysler for a limited edition 300S. Originally thought to be a one-off, the first car was auctioned off and proceeds went to The Rape Foundation, the parent organization of the Stuart House Charity, which Varvatos supports. Ultimately, the relationship with Chrysler continued, and Varvatos went on to partner with the auto giant on John Varvatos Limited Edition and John Varvatos Luxury Edition models.