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The 50 Greatest Menswear Brands of All Time Founder and tailor Mariano Rubinacci in front of his store.

12. Rubinacci

Founder: Mariano Rubinacci
Year Founded: 1932

To the extent that it can be said there's a regional style of tailoring in Naples, The London House (also known as Rubinacci) was the principle actor in defining it. Up until the early 20th century, much of Neapolitan tailoring took after what was going on in London. That changed, however, when Vincenzo Attolini—at the time the head cutter at Rubinacci—decided to cut a new style of jacket that would be better suited to Naples' warmer climate and more casual culture. The shoulder line was made to rest more naturally, the canvassing used was a bit lighter, and the overall fit was one that was softer and more at-ease. This style of coat was then copied by many tailors in the region, and has arguably come to define a very distinct Southern Italian approach to tailored clothing.

Tags: menswear
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