Ghanaian-born Ozwald Boateng remains one of the most relevant gatekeepers of London's famed Savile Row, which is home to much of the city's tradition of high-end bespoke tailoring. He mentored under Tommy Nutter, who was a famous designer in the '60s and often associated with the eye-popping suits of Mod Culture. Boateng brought that psychedelia into today's times, combining bright colors and sharp tailoring with traditional menswear, he gave tailored gear a new relevance, and it definitely got him noticed. Indeed, Boateng did a stint as Givenchy's Menswear Creative Director from 2004-2007, before being succeeded by Riccardo Tisci.
Martin Greenfield and his sons are killing the American tailoring game right now. Sure, they can do bespoke sack suits and a variety of other stuff just fine, but the list of clients they have goes on and on. Whether manufacturing suiting for designers labels like Band of Outsiders and rag and bone, they've also got their hands full producing period-accurate outfits for blockbuster shows like Boardwalk Empire. Yep, this is the man that dresses Nucky Thompson, and actor Steve Buscemi has thanked him in person for it. In the business since 1977, Greenfield continues to produce quality suiting in Brooklyn, and will be synonymous with fine American tailoring for years to come.
Edge: Ozwald Boateng. While Greenfield's tailoring techniques and body of work ensures that American tailoring will stay relevant well into the new milennium, culturally, Boateng has simply made more of an impact on the fashion world.