Why We Do What We Do: Conversations With Sneaker Industry Insiders

Trailblazers in the sneaker business map their paths.

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Complex Original

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The sneaker industry to a lot of people is a mysterious and unreachable dream but the reality is, the people behind the kicks all have one thing in common. Whether they are a part of the design process, a product line manager, a sales person, or a media professional, they all put in a lot of hard work to get where they are. With the sneaker industry bigger than it's ever been and the future looking brighter than it's ever been, we decided to chat with some sneaker industry insiders from all different backgrounds and career paths to get their thoughts on working in the industry, how they got started, what their expectations were and what they would suggest for people looking to get into the sneaker industry themselves. It's been said that it's never a good idea to follow someone else's path step by step but with these people, having some guidance from them can never hurt. Check out Why We Do What We Do: Conversations With Sneaker Industry Insiders and let us know when you'll be joining the sneaker enthusiasts by making your own path.

Jason Mayden

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Affiliation: Senior Global Design Director, Jordan Brand

What Got You Into Sneakers?
They are the most common form of self expression. A way to be different and a way to be part of something bigger. Simply put, sneakers allow you to dream beyond the confines of a world filled with stereotypes.

Where Did You Go To School?
I went to College for Creative Studies in Detroit, MI. I graduated with a BFA in Industrial Design. I also attended Stanford University Graduate School of Business where I received a Master of Science in General Management and Social Innovation

How Have You Applied Your Learning To Sneakers?
Through constant curiosity, I have feverishly tried to make the invisible problems, visible in an endless pursuit of serving the true needs of the athlete.

What Is Your Past Experience And How Did Your Past Lead You To A Career In Sneakers?
I was a small kid in a big city. Sneakers made me feel like I could fly. They gave me a purpose. It was my way of saying "Hello" to the world.


 

Focus on effort, rather than ambition.


 



What Was The Sneaker Or Moment That Made You Want To Have A Career Involving Sneakers?
Watching my brother walk home from his first day working at Footlocker wearing the SC Trainer 1s. It was as if he was the Southside's greatest hero. People stopped him every five steps to simply be close to the shoe. I know then that I wanted to be part of that.

What's The Favorite Part Of Your Job?
Helping and preparing others to eventually take my job. We all lease our roles, so why not prepare the next tenant while your still in it?

Did You Ever Think Sneakers Would Take You This Far?
Not at all. I solely, no pun intended, put my faith in The Lord. I asked Him to order my steps and He has lead me to this point through sneakers.

Where Are Sneakers Going To Take You Next?
Wherever God wants me to be!

What's The Best Piece Of Advice You Could Offer Someone Trying To Make A Career In Sneakers?
Focus on effort, rather than ambition. Expect disappointments and allow yourself to be pleasantly surprised by blessings. And always remember, that at the end of the day, we are all just kids who love to draw shoes....

Brett Golliff

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Affiliation: Designer, Blogger, Footwear Extraordinaire brettgolliff.com, Complex

What Got You Into Sneakers?
100 percent Michael Jordan. Nothing else, and to an extent to this day, influenced my sneaker life more than Michael Jordan.

Where Did You Go To School?
I went to the College for Creative Studies (better known as CCS) in sunny Detroit, MI, where I received my bachelor in Fine Arts specializing in Industrial Design. It's a long degree title but basically I learned how to be a shoe designer.

How Have You Applied Your Learning To Sneakers?
Before I came to CCS, I just knew how to draw incredibly well but I didn't know how to design. They are two very different things. So CCS taught me how to apply critical thinking to what I was creating. Which grew into me analyzing how products are made and marketed. Which has now grown into me creating opportunities and products that never existed in the market place.
 


 

Nothing else, and to an extent to this day; influenced my sneaker life more than Michael Jordan.


 


What Is Your Past Experience And How Did Your Past Lead You To A Career In Sneakers?
I have always been a big believer that your future is culmination of everything you have done before it. The reason why my future is sneakers is because everything I have done before it has been about sneakers. I am confident that I am one of the few people on the planet that convinced their third grade art teacher to let them design a shoe for their class project and that convincing has never stopped. I did it in high school almost every semester all the way through college where I always turned every project into a footwear design project. The only difference between the third grade and now is that I have experienced many other things along the way to help me grow. From traveling to people, and I think most importantly failing at some projects. I have managed to refine my skills to high level where I can pursue new avenues with every project I partake in.

What Was The Sneaker Or Moment That Made You Want To Have A Career Involving Sneakers?
There are two defining moments. One is that I grew up watching Michael Jordan and everything of him that I saw reflected into my life. All I did was play basketball and talk about Michael Jordan but on the side I also drew. When I was cut from my seventh grade basketball team and put on the B squad I realized that I would not be Mike on the court, so I made sure I was the Mike of the art room. The second actually happened the following year in eighth grade when I read an interview with Tinker Hatfield about the Air Jordan XIII. That article seriously changed my life is lit a fire inside me that has never went out. I still go back and read that article when I am looking for motivation as it always pushes me to push further.

What's The Favorite Part Of Your Job?
The favorite part of my job is challenging myself to pursue new avenues and find a way to create something that has never been created before. I love creating products that are raw and purposeful but incredibly impactful and then seeing the reaction it creates. Once it creates that reaction I love to have open conversation with people to see how they interpret the product. Those conversations help me to think further and reenergize myself to create the next product. It is always fun to create something that people or myself would never have thought could exist. There is an element of discovery in every project and it really captivates me to find a way to visualize what that element is.

Did You Ever Think Sneakers Would Take You This Far?
Not one single bit. It amazes me to this day the impact I have had just by drawing some shoes. I never thought it would take me to other cities, let alone other countries. That it would give me the chance to interact with the greatest athletes in the world and be able to make friendships with my heroes. I never, ever would have thought that my obsession would lead me to become who I am today. It sounds odd to thank sneakers, but I can't thank them enough because they have made so much of my career so fulfilling.

Where Are Sneakers Going To Take You Next?
I honestly have no idea. Every time I have a plan God comes in and alters it. So I stopped planning so far out. Next in line for me is to create my son's first shoe to wear when he is born in December, maybe that will turn into something dope. At the same time a good friend of mine and I are laying down the ground work for our own footwear brand. It has always been a dream of mine to be able to say "No." Which basically means I want creative control and right now my path is to set that up come one way or the other. So I don't exactly know where footwear is going to take me but I do know that it is going to be magnificent once I get there.

What's The Best Piece Of Advice You Could Offer Someone Trying To Make A Career In Sneakers?
No lie, on average I receive 5-7 emails a week asking how to become a shoe designer (feel free to email me by the way). I always do my best to answer everyone in a timely manner and with as much depth as possible. In a gist though, I tell them all the same thing. Just practice. I am a firm believer of the 10,000 hour rule. You spend 10,000 hours doing any one thing and you will be a master of it. Don't ever think that success is going to come over night or without work. If you truly want it find a way to make it happen. Don't ever give up. Things will get in your way only if you allow them to. The best part about art and design is that there is no one right answer, so create your answers.

Daniel Bailey

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Affiliation: Mr Bailey Founder of ConceptKicks, Co-Founder of lūp Footwear, Founder of FTWRDSGN

What Got You Into Sneakers?
When I was a little kid growing up in England, all the 'cool' kids at my school rocked the latest Air Max or Js, so of course I wanted them too. I remember one time the star basketball player brought a pair of Jordan XIIIs to a game and everyone just lost their minds. There's just always been something special about sneakers. Growing up playing basketball, sneakers were always a huge part of me and my friends lives, and when I wasn't playing ball I was at home sketching something. I started sketching my own shoes one day and really enjoyed it, also the reaction I got from everyone around me was great, so I just kept going. Over the years my passion for it just seemed to constantly grow and now I can proudly say I design sneakers for a living.


 

Over the years my passion for it just seemed to constantly grow and now I can proudly say I design sneakers for a living.


 


Where Did You Go To School?
Funny thing is, I actually never paid for my last semester of college (they screwed me over on some extra Art History course I apparently didn't take), so I don't technically have a bachelor's degree. If I did actually decide to take that last class (not likely), i'd have a bachelor's degree in Industrial Design from Montclair State University. I do however have an associates degree in graphic design. Having strong graphic design skills is incredibly important for sneaker designers and product designers in general, though I feel like it's importance isn't stressed enough in school.

How Have You Applied Your Learning To Sneakers?
I just tried during my school years (and still do to this day) to be involved in as many varying areas of design and art as possible. From hard and soft 3D modelling, sketching, rendering, animation, life drawing, technical drawing, photography and everything else, I feel like every different skill I can add to my arsenal makes me more of a creative and effective sneaker designer. I think perhaps the biggest thing i've learned and applied to sneakers though is a mind state; to remain curious, constantly questioning and most importantly, to continue to learn and try new things. Every experience can be a source of inspiration.

What Is Your Past Experience And How Did Your Past Lead You To A Career In Sneakers?
I've really lead quite a nomadic lifestyle, growing up in a bunch of different countries, I've moved over 30 times in my life, mainly because I was an army brat, but also partly because sometimes I get kicked out of countries (long story). One of those moves was going to America to play basketball. I was studying Graphic Design at the time but switched to Industrial Design when I found out that I couldn't get a shoe design internship studying that. Luckily the school I was attending had just started an I.D. program, honestly a lot of it really has just been being in the right place at the right time and making my situation work best for what I needed at that time. Since graduating i've been fortunate enough to collaborate with a lot of globally recognised companies, but I really enjoy working with smaller, more independent brands. When you work with smaller brands you're involved in a lot more of the process, developing footwear from initial sketches, all the way up to production and commercialization. With bigger brands it's easy to get pigeon holed into one particular thing, which is a big reason why I now have my own independent design agency, as it lets me get involved in a wider capacity.


What Was The Sneaker Or Moment That Made You Want To Have A Career Involving Sneakers?
I don't know if I can say there was just one single moment I can remember that made me want to design sneakers. Partly because I have a terrible memory after an unfortunate quad biking incident in South Carolina where I ended up in a tree and was airlifted to hospital (another long story). At first when I started designing at college I flipped between designing vehicle concepts and various other random products, but I always came back to sneakers. There's just always been a love for them. However, as much as I love them, I think it's good to have a varied range of work, I have to be able to design other products every now and then to keep me inspired. Whether it's a jetski concept, sunglasses, quad bikes, anything, I think if I just designed sneakers all day every day I might lose a little bit of the excitement I have for them.

What's The Favorite Part Of Your Job?
My favourite part, apart from being able to do what I love, is seeing my ideas come to life, watching them evolve and grow to become a finalized, tangible, working product. Also, free shoes.

Did You Ever Think Sneakers Would Take You This Far?
Though i've been designing professionally for years, i'm still in my 20s and feel like i'm only just beginning to see where this sneaker design journey will take me. I don't really know if I have too many expectations, I go with the flow, stay curious and keep my eyes and mind open to new and interesting projects. Being a designer in this industry means you don't work normal hours, you're never not working, this is a lifestyle choice, not just a job...which can make it quite dangerous because work no long feels like work so it can be hard to shut off, take a step back and relax... but I like it like that. Saying that, being able to balance that hard work and not let it bury you so you have ability to maintain a creative & open vision is extremely important.

Where Are Sneakers Going To Take You Next?
Not knowing where sneakers will take me next is part of the fun. I love taking on exciting new projects that I believe in and can collaborate alongside other passionate individuals & entrepreneurs. One of my passions is giving back to the design community, and being a resource to up and coming young designers...one of the ways I do this is through my website ConceptKicks.com. On CK we have design competitions where designers can win anything from a handmade sample of their shoes to Pensole Scholarships, we feature interviews with todays leading footwear designers alongside offering an avenue for talented young designers to have their work showcased on a wider forum, and provide a host of resources around footwear development. So as far what's next for CK, I just plan on letting the community grow and trying to offer as many aspects and insights into the footwear design industry as possible. I also have a lot of other very cool sneaker projects coming out, from my own MrBailey shoes where i'm learning about the handmaking shoe process, to lūp, a shoe brand my friends and I have thats coming out this year. There's also other more daring and different sneaker related projects that I can't wait to unveil when the time is right.

What's The Best Piece Of Advice You Could Offer Someone Trying To Make A Career In Sneakers?
One thing that I think is extremely important for anyone trying to get into the small, tightknit world of sneaker design, is to try and break into it as early as possible through internships. Internships are a huge way for you to open the door and meet the right people. So get as many of them in while you can, and do them in a variety of different companies, from big to small. Oh and check out conceptkicks.com everyday :)

Brandon Edler

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Affiliation: Digital Engagement Strategist, Finish Line

What Got You Into Sneakers?
It all started with a love for basketball and growing up in the "golden era" when Jordan, Penny, Iverson, and others were major influences—from their games to the signature kicks they rocked. When I was younger having every basketball card of your favorite player was a major stunt and as your personal taste evolved so did your "collections". Eventually I had to have every shoe that my favorite players donned, it was an easy way to stand out on the court and in the classroom for a high school kid.

Where Did You Go To School?
I went to Western Illinois University, it's a smaller D1/D1-AA school that a lot of people from my area went to. I originally wanted to be a music attorney, dealing with copyrights and clearing samples, but then realized you actually had to read a lot to make that happen so I quickly switched over to Marketing and Music. It was a time when hip-hop was booming and I really wanted to be an A&R or something like that, it always looked so cool in The Source when I was in high school.


 

Eventually I had to have every shoe that my favorite players donned.


 



How Have You Applied Your Learning To Sneakers?
I am not sure the educational aspect of college really helped me there but the personal relationships and realizing there are a lot of people that share the same interests as I do and respected my opinions on various subjects gave me a confidence that I understood the culture and should pursue it.

What Is Your Past Experience And How Did Your Past Lead You To A Career In Sneakers?
My story is a little different, I really never had any intention of being involved with sneakers professionally—I was a loyal reader of Complex and used to chop it up (and by chop it up I mean annoyed) some editors at Complex before Twitter really blew up. Joe La Puma knew I was really interested in Complex and being part of the team so he gave me a shot to intern as a sneaker writer, I was pretty raw at first but he did a great job mentoring me and shaping me into a trusted regular on the sneaker channel. This past year Hoop Magazine reached out to me to do a piece on the evolution of LeBron's sneakers since he entered the league and shortly after I accepted the position of Digital Engagement Strategist at Finish Line's corporate office. It's crazy how much happened all within a few years.

What Was The Sneaker Or Moment That Made You Want To Have A Career Involving Sneakers?
Call me a hypebeast, I already know, but it was the original Yeezys. When those first surfaced it was the same way I felt when I heard Nas for the first time as a kid—I wanted that culture to be my life. I didn't really make the greatest plan but it was around then I started to use Twitter to network (and by network, I once again mean annoy) with some of the Complex editors and my goal was to get on with them for sneakers or music.

What's The Favorite Part Of Your Job?
My favorite part is that I get to voice my thoughts to help shape how the company will be perceived through social media and our products through campaigns and it's respected and executed even though I haven't even been here 30 days yet. I get pretty geeked out when I get to see samples eight months in advance too, next spring is going to be a problem for your bank account.

Did You Ever Think Sneakers Would Take You This Far?
Whoever thought hip-hop (and sneakers) would take it this far? Absolutely not, this is still very surreal. Not just professionally, but I have built some great relationships with people through work the past few years. I know people think the sneaker game is so messed up but there are a lot of really good genuine people who will have your back when you need it, don't let these other savages ruin it for the rest.

Where Are Sneakers Going To Take You Next?
Right now I am just focused on killing the new role.

What's The Best Piece Of Advice You Could Offer Someone Trying To Make A Career In Sneakers?
I get a solid amount of guys e-mailing me asking how they can get featured on Complex's blog or get an internship—I always tell them that if they aren't willing to put in 100, effort and hours, that it's going to be tough. This is a very trendy area right now and everyone wants to be involved somehow, you have to be willing go out there and sacrifice everything for greatness because these editors and other bosses know the difference between loyalty and dedication and someone who just wants to look cool and rep the name.

Kyle Strek

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Affiliation: Senior Designer, Innovation Studio at New Balance

What Got You Into Sneakers?
I've been interested in sneakers since I was a kid. I would get a new pair of shoes and obsessively check out all of the materials and details. I ended up finding a passion for sneaker design at CCS and it has continued to grow over my years at New Balance. A huge part of my continued interest in shoes is my love for running and sports. Its really great to be able to test and refine the products I design.

Where Did You Go To School?
I went to College For Creative Studies (CCS) in Detroit Mi. and I have a Bachelor of Fine Arts degree. Before college I was very fortunate to have an amazing fine arts program and a mentor in high school. This gave me a really great understanding of different mediums as well as color and light.

How Have You Applied Your Learning To Sneakers?
A good portion of my career has really depended on being able to sell concepts in rendering form, so that understanding of art and the ability to translate something from your mind to paper is absolutely necessary. As my career matures, I have put a ton of focus on understanding material and process and learning to make shoes myself. I find both skill sets are important and can be utilized in so many situations.

What Is Your Past Experience And How Did Your Past Lead You To A Career In Sneakers?
While at CCS I really looked into everything. I wanted to learn as much as I could and see where the most inspirational opportunities were. I was classmates with Jason Mayden at CCS and was always super inspired by his work and passion for footwear, he graduated shortly before I did and went onto Nike. During my Sr. year I landed in footwear when I joined a Nike Sponsored Studio and had the opportunity to work with Jason again as a professional mentor. That really helped identify my passion and pave the path for a footwear career.


 

Since my parents wouldnt spend that kind of money on shoes, I got creative and took a pair of sneakers, cut a big chunk out of the midsole and jammed a bunch of clear gummy bears into it, creating my own "Nike Airs".


 



What Was The Sneaker Or Moment That Made You Want To Have A Career Involving Sneakers?
I was always a creative kid and visual thinker/tinkerer. When I was about eight years old, my friend had a pair of Jordan IVs and I was obsessed with the viz Air. Since my parents wouldnt spend that kind of money on shoes, I got creative and took a pair of sneakers, cut a big chunk out of the midsole and jammed a bunch of clear gummy bears into it, creating my own "Nike Airs". I refined my craft soon after by cobbling together a pair of faux Reebok Pumps with a ziplock bag and McDonalds Happy Meal toy.

What's The Favorite Part Of Your Job?
I have three favorite parts: I really enjoy getting my hands dirty with making my own prototypes. Learning construction and understanding materials opens so many opportunities to problem solve and innovate. Secondly I love the opportunity to travel for inspiration. Experiencing other countries and cultures over the years has been an amazing experience. Lastly, I really enjoy working with our elite athletes and connecting stories and products to athletes.

Did You Ever Think Sneakers Would Take You This Far?
No! It has been really fun to see how much popularity and exposure sneaker design has gotten over the years. When I started my footwear career, it seemed like ID was all about transportation and consumer electronics. Now sneaker design is one of the most sought after design careers and it feels really good to be part of that energy.

Where Are Sneakers Going To Take You Next?
I have gotten much more involved on the creative vision aspect of the brand. I'm helping to define the visual language of our technology platforms like Rev-lite and Fantomfit. My interests are definitely shifting toward being a bigger part of the up front creative work we do.

What's The Best Piece Of Advice You Could Offer Someone Trying To Make A Career In Sneakers?
Learn how things are made, learn how to make patterns and how to sew. Thinking in 3D with actual tools and materials is the best method for problem solving and will open up so many opportunities for innnovation, refinement and an overall better product. Also, really look at who the consumer is in real life... a lot of times we tend to design the ideal consumer along with the shoe and things become forced.

Jacques Slade

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Affiliation: Founder, Kustoo.com Youtuber, Videographer

What Got You Into Sneakers?
Basketball. As a basketball player, sneakers have always been important to how well you play. For me, the need to get the best sneakers to play in, transitioned to just liking sneakers as a whole.

Where Did You Go To School?
I went to California State University, Northridge. I have an AA in Liberal Studies.

How Have You Applied Your Learning To Sneakers?
I've always loved writing. With sneakers, it allows me to tie the love I have for writing to the passion I have for sneakers.

What Is Your Past Experience And How Did Your Past Lead You To A Career In Sneakers?
I actually started out as a Project Manager/Technical Writer for Washington Mutual Bank. I documented procedures for customer service representatives, helped manage and communicate product launches, and worked with legal and compliance on operational procuedures. After they moved to Texas, I got into some acting and other things here in LA and found myself on TV and a part of a few movies. While all that was happening, I started to writing about sneakers online which led me to where I am today.

What Was The Sneaker Or Moment That Made You Want To Have A Career Involving Sneakers?
Well, I didn't think I could have a career in sneakers until I started writing about them online. So I guess that moment for me was when I realized you could get paid to write about kicks.

What's The Favorite Part Of Your Job?
Interacting with the community and the friends you make. I have made a lot of friends in the past few years and they are a direct result of working in sneakers. I have even reconnected with people from college that I had lost touch with.


 

If someone would have told me I would host an event with Blake Griffin and Kevin Durant because of sneakers, I would have laughed at them.


 



Did You Ever Think Sneakers Would Take You This Far?
No. If someone would have told me I would host events with Blake Griffin and Kevin Durant because of sneakers, I would have laughed at them. I am incredibly blessed and thank God I get to do what I do. Because of what I have been able to do, it makes me reach for more. There is so much more I want to do, both for and with the community. I honestly feel like the opportunities are endless.

Where Are Sneakers Going To Take You Next?
I would love to continue hosting events and doing special projects with brands. As far as the stuff you see on TodayInSneaks.com, I would love to extend the show beyond Youtube to TV. A sneaker show that runs once a week. In addition to that, I hope to be able to extend my reach beyond sneakers and do some more acting and hosting outside of the sneaker world.

What's The Best Piece Of Advice You Could Offer Someone Trying To Make A Career In Sneakers?
Go for it, but don't expect it to be easy. This goes for any field you pursue. I love my job, but I would be remiss if I made it sounds like it is all roses. It is hard and filled with late nights and weekends. But, at the end of the day, it is something that I enjoy doing so it all works out in the end.

Todd Krinsky

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Affiliation: Vice President, Reebok 

What Got You Into Sneakers?
I grew up a kid playing basketball, collecting shoes, then selling shoes and DJing. When I was like 16 or 17 I started working at Foot Locker and then when I got out of school I was selling shoes at Nike.

Where Did You Go To School?
Ithaca College, NY

What Is Your Past Experience And How Did Your Past Lead You To A Career In Sneakers?
When I got into the mailroom at Reebok, I didn't realize all the disciplines in footwear that went into creating a shoe. It's been 21 years now. The whole thing was a hustle. I was working at Foot Locker and got this opportunity to interview with Reebok. They asked me to take a typing test and I failed it. They called me back and offered me a temp job packing boxes and delivering mail. I was like, 'Yo, I can get in this company?' I didn't care what it was, it just became a hustle. I just thought, " I don't know how long I'm going to be here. So, I want to learn as much as I can. I'm going to meet as many people as I can." I'm selling shoes at night and now I'm at a place where they're making shoes during the day. I'm learning everything. I think the passion and desire to turn that into something was what allowed me to stay there. I think Reebok was always this young and entrpreneurial company and gave a lot of opportunity as well. This is going to make me sound old but, kids today are so focused on what they want to do. You can't be like that. You have to realize that your career is definitely a marathon.

Whatever opportunity comes up, if it's in the industry, you want to take it. When I was 28, they asked me to go to Korea. I had never been out of the country. I was like, "What am I going to do?" They said, "Work in a factory." I said, "Yeah, I'm doing it." Because, I know I am going to learn a lot that's going to help in the future. Is it forever? No, I didn't even want to be a developer but I took that job for a few years. All I did was run around from factory to factory. Source materials, get new materials and look for new materials for us to use. I knew it wasn't the end goal for me but again, I am in it now. I think you have to take any opportunity you can to learn as much as you can. This is what this industry is.


 

The people that are really successful in this industry, they fucking love it. They wake up everyday like, "Look what I get to do, man. This is my job."

The people that treat it like a business usually don't stay in it long. I almost want to say it's like a family business to me. I have a reputation at the company. I get a little upset sometimes. Like if we're in a meeting, and people are treating it like we could be talking about shower rings or button down shirts or something. No. This is fucking sneakers. Look at this culture. There's a sensibility and a heart and soul to what we do. Don't come in here and talk to me about how this is just a product. This has heritage. Sometimes I get a little too animated with people who aren't as passionate. Try everything. Be open. Be passionate.

[Jenny Shanley, Head of US Public Relations and Marketing Services] The piece that he didn't tell you, that I will tell you is that he would take each piece of mail and instead of putting it in the mailbox, he would walk it over and hand deliver it to people's desks to meet them. That blew me away when I heard that story. You don't think about that as a kid. Especially this generation, you don't get paid to do that. 


What's The Favorite Part Of Your Job?
I do two roles right now, really. One is the sports contracts or entertainer contracts and the other is the footwear contracts. On the entertainment side, I speak all the time. It's a known industry, everybody wants to get into sports marketing. Rarely do I ever get to speak about the footwear side, which in a lot of ways is more exciting.

Do You Consider Your Job, A "job"?
The people that are really successful in this industry, they fucking love it. They wake up every day like, "Look what I get to do, man. This is my job."

What's The Best Piece Of Advice You Could Offer Someone Trying To Make A Career In Sneakers?
All the kids that love it and breathe it, there's more careers than just being a designer. If you can't put pen to paper and design, you can still a part of the product development process and people don't understand that. If you're really into this you can be a product development manager. You can be an engineer without an engineering background. You can be a technical development manager. There's a vast array of jobs that young kids in the sneaker don't know. It's not just about one guy designs it and the factory makes it. There's 10 steps along the way and those steps can be from all different backgrounds and educations. There's some really cool jobs that I think a lot of these kids in college don't know about. There's an incredible amount of opportunity in this field.

The prerequisite is that you have to have passion. I know that's cliché but you have to have it. If you don't, you either won't be successful or you'll burn out. I was lucky that I grew up a kid playing basketball, collecting shoes, selling shoes and DJ'ing. That's what I grew up doing, so the fact that I fell into this thing is really cool. I've always had the passion and I still do. I still act like I'm 25 years old. I'm still definitely a kid, which is cool. The industry keeps you young.

Tinker Hatfield

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Affiliation: Vice President of Design, Nike

What Got You Into Sneakers?
Why not? It pays way better than being an architect. Architects don't make Diddly!

Where Did You Go To School?
University of Oregon, bachelor's degree in architecture.

How Have You Applied Your Learning To Sneakers?
Architecture is an excellent 'all around' design education. Seems like I didn't eat or sleep for about five years because they were teaching us so much stuff. My design education at Oregon was all about solving problems for people and the environment. That really prepared me for designing sneakers, furniture, graphics, architecture and other items in an innovative and modern but mostly practical approach. My own personality has always been somewhat provocative in nature so that part of my design work came from somewhere else than school.

What Is Your Past Experience And How Did Your Past Lead You To A Career In Sneakers?
Before design school I was a national record holder in some high school track events (no, I wasn't a distance runner). I'm whiter than a loaf of Wonder Bread but for some reason I was fast and very agile. I was also a Sunkist All American in Football. Some college sports recruiters thought I was a black sprinter (until they met me) because of my sprint and hurdle times but also because my name was different. I enjoyed surprising those guys. Anyway, I knew sports at a pretty high level in high school and college which made it relatively easy for me as a designer to sit down and credibly talk to many of the worlds best athletes. I think that insight gave me an advantage when it came time to put designs on the table that helped people perform better. The style part was an extension of Innovation Design for real athletes and then I wove personality and storytelling into those performance designs. Maybe I was the first one to combine all that stuff into a sneaker design, I don't really know.

What Was The Sneaker Or Moment That Made You Want To Have A Career Involving Sneakers?
There was no magic moment other than I originally came to Nike as the Corporate Architect and quickly noticed that all the real action and fun was revolving around Shoe Innovation. I was lucky to be invited to design some shoes while I was still the Nike Architect. I was really fortunate that the Sneaker Industry was still mired in utilitarian design work. When I started designing shoes it was kind of virgin territory.


 

I love the role of a maverick in a world of bankers, accountants and MBAs.


 



What's The Favorite Part Of Your Job?
Not wearing a suit and trying to act all 'corporate'. I love the role of a maverick in a world of bankers, accountants and MBAs. Even though I'm a VP I'm not invited to board meetings, and other high level corporate sessions. I guess they think I'm too disruptive but I also think they are protecting their turf from a whacky 'creative'. I think it's a mistake to NOT include people like me but on the other hand, it's fun to be mysterious, even misunderstood.

Did You Ever Think Sneakers Would Take You This Far?
I never thought about how far I could go with the sneaker thing except that I knew Mark Parker and I were possibly on track to change the way shoes and sports apparel were designed and marketed. I just figured I might get a Christmas bonus for it or something like that.

Where Are Sneakers Going To Take You Next?
I'm still 'concepting' sneakers but more and more of the real design development and finishing is done by others. Mark Smith is a protege as is Eric Avar and a few others. Those guys are awesome and I think it's more about me doing the downfield blocking for people with that kind of talent. There are some younger folks like Mark Minor, Ben Shaffer, Tiffany Beers and Jason Petrie who are killing it. I've still got a few tricks up my sleeve, but I really want to help others excel. I've had my time in the sun! It's kinda crazy but I'm doing more architecture again. Big urban planning for the city of Portland, Nike Campus expansion, and sports facilities for the University of Oregon are all currently on my plate. Maybe I will slowly fade away from sneaker design altogether. On the other hand, designing other things may open my eyes up to more sneaker innovation. It's happened before. Who knows?

What's The Best Piece Of Advice You Could Offer Someone Trying To Make A Career In Sneakers?
Don't just draw shoes. Learn the intricacies of other design disciplines like architecture, car design, toy design, environmental engineering, whatever. I've not seen truly 'unique' new sneaker work from anybody who just knows shoes.

Russ Bengtson

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Affiliation: Sneaker Editor, Complex

What Got You Into Sneakers?
I don't remember ever NOT being into sneakers, which might sound ridiculous, but it's true. I got my first pair of "real" sneakers in fourth grade—a pair of blue on white Nike Bruins—and wore them until the upper started to separate from the sole. "Blowout," I believe is the term. I even drew them in art class. It just built and built from there.

Where Did You Go To School?
I went to the University of Delaware and got a BA in English with a concentration in journalism. But I learned way more working for the student-run paper, The Review, than I did in any class. We published twice a week, which made for lots of late nights (and early mornings), fueled by countless 7-11 trips. This was in the early days of Mac and the waning days of actual "paste-up," so it was something of a crash course in both old and new.

How Have You Applied Your Learning To Sneakers?
I mean, it was natural that I would wind up writing about sneakers. I kept up with Jordans for a while in college—through the VII in 1992—until my budget put me into a stall. Then I bought one of each of the first Jordan retros in 1994 and 1995 right when they came out. Little did I know they'd be a disaster at retail and be available for as little as $20 a pair. Around the same time, I found the premiere issue of a magazine called SLAM on a 2 a.m. grocery shopping excursion.

What Is Your Past Experience And How Did Your Past Lead You To A Career In Sneakers?
Right out of college I got a job at a tiny weekly paper in Oxford, Pennsylvania. It was a 45-minute drive from Delaware through Amish country, which meant you had to keep it slow in the hills lest you crash into someone's horse-drawn wagon. It was a small operation, just a husband and wife and me on the editorial side, which meant I had to do a little bit of everything, including shooting and developing photos. From there I moved on to Big Shout, a slightly less tiny entertainment monthly in Wilmington, Delaware. I also started writing for SLAM after relentlessly faxing (yes, it was 1994) editor in chief Tony Gervino. Big Shout's paychecks were large enough to cover my $365 rent (ah, Delaware), but sporadic enough that I occesionally lost nonessentials like cable TV, phone service and electricity. I got a few pieces in SLAM, but my phone happened to be out when they tried to call and offer me a job. I was actually in the process of moving out around Christmas (I'd been robbed at gunpoint in front of my own building) when a FedEx driver handed me a package. It was a letter from Tony along with an edit test. I drove back to Long Island that night, sent back the test the following morning, and interviewed over the phone. The following week I was looking for an apartment in New York City. I started as senior editor on a three-person staff, and eventually wrote cover stories. I'd like to think my sneaker obsession (along with Tony's) helped launch the idea and reality of KICKS, a sneaker-focused SLAM spinoff annual whose first issue was solely sponsored by Nike. We spent a couple of days on campus at Beaverton, which was real kid-in-a-candy-store stuff. When Tony eventually left to take over Inside Stuff, I was named editor in chief of both SLAM and KICKS.


 

We spent a couple of days on campus at Beaverton, which was real kid-in-a-candy-store stuff.


 



What Was The Sneaker Or Moment That Made You Want To Have A Career Involving Sneakers?
It probably went all the way back to those Bruins. Prior to that I was in traditional kid stuff—mostly canvas Cons—but they didn't move me the same way. Then the original Air Jordan dropped in 1985 and I was completely hooked. I didn't get Air Jordans then, $65 wasn't happening, but I did get a pair of white/natural Air Ships at Marshalls for $34.99. Close enough. My first Air Jordans was a pair of IIs when the IIIs were already out, for $70 at the local flea market. I would eventually get those cherished black/cement IIIs in 1994 or '95. I still have them, although they're unwearable now. Up to that point around 1994 or 1995, I wasn't even aware you COULD have a career in sneakers, there was still a level of disconnect. Then I discovered SLAM and was finally able to put two and two together. I've been writing about sneakers (and basketball) ever since.

What's The Favorite Part Of Your Job?
Probably the daily discovery of something new, whether it's a new model just coming out or uncovering some long-lost information about an older release. Sneakers aren't like sports-there is no proper sneaker encyclopedia or sneaker reference dot com. If you want to know something about an older release, you have to be willing to dig, whether it's through back issues of magazines, old catalogs, or tracking down and talking to former employees. There is plenty of uncharted territory when it comes to sneakers, and it's fun being able to create trails or uncover old ones.

Do You Consider Your Job, A "job"?
Yes, ha. Even when it's fun, it's not easy.

Did You Ever Think Sneakers Would Take You This Far?
Not really. Coming out of college, I figured I'd wind up writing about music, but that never really got off the ground. I loved sneakers already, but never really thought writing about sneakers would be a plausible career. Yet here I am.

Where Are Sneakers Going To Take You Next?
Truthfully, I don't know. The landscape has changed so much since I started on this path in the early '90s. When I started, there was no real "retro," no real "lifestyle" divisions. You bought sneakers in sporting goods stores and bought basketball sneakers to play basketball in. I played outdoor ball in Fire Red Vs, rode BMX in those and Fire Red IVs. I wasn't thinking about value, I just knew I had dope sneakers and was going to wear them until they literally fell apart. Whatever I do next, I just hope I can keep delivering that message—that sneakers are meant to be enjoyed.

What's The Best Piece Of Advice You Could Offer Someone Trying To Make A Career In Sneakers?
Just that this is an amazing time to get involved. Social media has made it really easy to connect with people, and sneakers are a bigger business than ever before. If you're passionate and willing to work, just figure out what you want and make it happen.

D'Wayne Edwards

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Affiliation: Founder, Pensole

What Got You Into Sneakers?
Self-expression. I grew up in the '80s and I walked everywhere so my sneakers were my car, my status symbol and who I was. I was a sneakerhead before that term was a word. I guess I was a customizer before that became a term as well because back in 1986, I would buy AF1s, get some duct tape, shoe dye and come to school rockin' sneakers nobody else had. After a few months I was getting paid to dye other students sneakers but I guess like everything else in a guys life if we can get girls attention we do more of that.

Where Did You Go To School?
I grew up in Inglewood, CA and I didn't know what a design school was and if I did I couldn't afford to attend it so I attended Santa Monica College and studied Business Marketing, Advertising and Management. I would say my real education came on the job and because I started my professional career at age 19 I was able to get a head start on traditional college graduates.

How Have You Applied Your Learning To Sneakers?
Because I started at such a young age I was the consumer and being the consumer I was designing for myself, which was an amazing learning experience. But, I would say my love for sneakers helped me not only design but appreciate and respect this industry to this day.

What Is Your Past Experience And How Did Your Past Lead You To A Career In Sneakers?
From the time I was in the 7th grade I knew I wanted to design sneakers but it wasn't until I won a Reebok design competition in 1987 that I knew I "could" have a career in this industry. And, a few years later I was getting paid to design sneakers.

What Was The Sneaker Or Moment That Made You Want To Have A Career Involving Sneakers?
Honestly, I would say a couple of things. No. 1: When Footlocker wouldn't hire me when I was in high school. No. 2: When I won the Reebok design competition and they did not hire me. No. 3: When my high school guidance counselor told me I would NEVER have a career designing sneakers. I guess you can say I was motivated by rejection and people telling me I couldn't do something. Thank you Footlocker, Reebok and Mrs. Wilson-Jefferson.


 

Learn from those that came before you so you can become the next person people learn from.


 



What's The Favorite Part Of Your Job?
Well, I gave up my "job" as Footwear Design Director for JORDAN to teach (PENSOLE) but I can honestly say I never viewed a day in my 24-year career a "job". Besides working with the best athlete ever to play a sport (Michael Jordan), traveling around the world, being apart of a brand (JORDAN) I grew up idolizing and working with some of the most talented people in this industry, I would say my favorite part of my job was all of it. Your life experiences shape your life and my time in JORDAN positioned me to be where I am today. 


Do You Consider Your Job, A "job"?
As I said that was not a "job" to me and I believe what I am doing today is the reason why I had the career I had. I spent the majority of my career, designing product and now I am spending the rest of my life designing lives.

Did You Ever Think Sneakers Would Take You This Far?
Man, I am not suppose to be alive... I grew up in one of the toughest cities in America and a lot of the people I grew up with are either dead or in jail. I am blessed to be alive and to think sneakers saved my life is crazy but they have.

Where Are Sneakers Going To Take You Next?
It's is not so much where are sneakers going to take me next but more so where sneakers can take the next generation of designers that will attend PENSOLE. If, a No. 2 pencil and sneakers can take me from where I was to where I ended up the sky is the limit for anyone who is willing to dedicate the time to be where they want to be.

What's The Best Piece Of Advice You Could Offer Someone Trying To Make A Career In Sneakers?
Learn from those that came before you so you can become the next person people learn from.

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