There are three Variety Coffee shops in Brooklyn: The one in Greenpoint, the one in Williamsburg off the Graham Stop, and now, the Variety deep in Bushwick, in a neighborhood otherwise known as Wycoff Heights. All three places arrived long before the throngs of tourists started following Manhattanite-outward migrations; all three places are basically neighborhood centers, usually piping great albums—and only great albums—through the place (alternately, owner Gavin Compton's default: Springsteen). And all three regularly turn out some of the best coffee in Brooklyn, which for the longest time, was made with Stumptown beans. Recently, Variety started to mix it up, using Lofted Coffee Roasters and Toby's Estate beans instead, getting drinkers and Wi-Fi squatters to expand their palates, or at least, get away from the same old stuff.
But the newest spot isn't just going to be a new center of gravity for far Bushwick, it's also where Variety's going to be roasting its own coffee, too. That said, it won't change the appeal Variety's always had, inspiring diehard loyalty in regulars and making them critical drop-ins whenever you're in their 'hoods: The people. Variety's baristas aren't just some of the greatest in the city, but the friendliest, too, and they'll serve the Pitchfork-approved songwriter, the Sundance darling screenwriter, the neighborhood old-timers, and you with no more and no less the same niceties. Some days in north Brooklyn, there's just no better way to kill time inside—and maybe meet some great people—than a hour spent throwing back coffee in a Variety. — Foster Kamer